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Discussion Starter #1
First of all, I'd like to thank the forum for the advice that I got with respect to the slipping clutch. Cdn$3,000 later, it's all fixed and the clutch isn't slipping. I also had all of the parts recommended in the parts list replaced. As well, the drive shaft and swing arm bearings were shot, so those were replaced too.

Now, a month or two later, I'm noticing some oil weeping around the rear boot (see pics). It wasn't leaking before I took it to the shop. Seeing as the rear transmission seal's been replaced, I don't suspect it. Any ideas as to what it could be before I go back to the shop to complain?

Thanks!
 

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Yes.....final drive input seal and compression sleeve with now a wear groove.Heck of a job that as one has to fabricate a retainer bar then remove the crenellated retainer and the center nut.Both rather high torque.

I'd lend you the tools if in BC.Alas best left to a dealer that job.

Mind you....I have been riding a weepy one for the last couple years.Weeps a teaspoon/30,000 kms,more than enough to make a mess but not enough to lower the level and hardly worth fixing at my advancing milleage.
 

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First of all, I'd like to thank the forum for the advice that I got with respect to the slipping clutch. Cdn$3,000 later, it's all fixed and the clutch isn't slipping. I also had all of the parts recommended in the parts list replaced. As well, the drive shaft and swing arm bearings were shot, so those were replaced too.

Now, a month or two later, I'm noticing some oil weeping around the rear boot (see pics). It wasn't leaking before I took it to the shop. Seeing as the rear transmission seal's been replaced, I don't suspect it. Any ideas as to what it could be before I go back to the shop to complain?

Thanks!
This type / location of oil leak can come from 2 places:
(1) the transmission output shaft SEAL where the drive-shaft engages into transmission (from of swing-arm). This has been changed in your parts list as item 28 (seal 25 x 40 x 6) although for some reason your dealer used the old part number and not the current one.

When this SEAL leaks, it permits gearbox-oil to drive dowm slowly by gravity into swing-arm (small angle going down when parked) and eventually accumulates near the rubber boot.

I have seen cases where the seal was either: (a) damaged during installation OR (b) inserted just 1 mm too far and will cause leak because of design of shaft (there is a small hole in shaft just behind this seal).


(2) the other possiblity is the Pinion seal of the rear-drive - this is just where the drive-shaft connect into rear drive (lowest point and farthest rear of swing-arm). In general this seal is NOT replaced during a clutch job unless they see a leak from there when removing the rear-drive. Part number "33 11 7 665 838" Seal 35x47x7. So if the previous one above is not the cause of the leak, you might just be unlucky and this rear-drive seal failed a few weeks / months after the did their work on clutch.

As posted in reply of H96669, this one may weep / leak very slowly just to create a bit of a mess without any major dripping. Check the fluid level of rear drive (lower thread of filling plug) and adjust if needed - fix it when time and budget allows.

IMPORTANT: Transmission uses same type / grade of oil as rear-drive so one cannot tell if leak comes from either by smell or color. The only way to be 100% sure is to remove rear-drive from swing arm and inspect if oil is present as far up into swing-arm (going toward upper swing-arm). Oil would have a hard time climbing up if it leaked only from lower rear-drive seal (pinion seal as my option 2 above).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just checked the final drive oil level - it's at the lowest thread when the bike's on its sidestand. If it is the transmission output shaft seal, I'm going to be... most annoyed. The part number list I found on here, so it appears I might have ordered the wrong part. How much effort is it to replace that seal with the correct one? And what's the correct part number?

Thanks!
 

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I just checked the final drive oil level - it's at the lowest thread when the bike's on its sidestand. If it is the transmission output shaft seal, I'm going to be... most annoyed. The part number list I found on here, so it appears I might have ordered the wrong part. How much effort is it to replace that seal with the correct one? And what's the correct part number?

Thanks!
The current part number for the Transmission Output Shaft SEAL is: 23 12 2 330 135 (Size 25x40x6)
The previous number that you have on your Invoice shown earlier "23 12 1 340 324" has been superseded to the newer number above many years ago (I have not kept track of the exact date and BMW does not publish date changes when they do such in parts fiche)

As far as how difficult a job it is IT REALLY DEPENDS on your experience doing similar job - something I CANNOT evaluate.... Many parts need to be removed (rear-drive, muffler , swing-arm, drive-shaft) and re-install with proper sequence and specific torque. Furthermore, the depth of installation of Seal is critical. For this last step (depth) the BMW dealer have a factory special driver / tool.

See attached diagram for measurements of tool. Almost any proper / close enough socket can be used to push seal in, however THE CRITICAl part is the 0.050 inch ridge from surface so as not to push it in too far.

P.S.: IF HOWEVER, the leak is from the rear-drive pinion seal, THEN it is a MORE DIFFICULT JOB that should be left to a shop having special BMW jig and tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for this. I checked the transmission oil, and it was low. So I suspect it is the output shaft seal.

I’ll be taking the bike back to the shop where the work was done and ask them to fix it.
 

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https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ms3RLfS1RjjQKbrn8

I think the photo link will work.Shows how dangerously close from the lube hole the lip of the seal rides on the shaft from the factory.As found on my then low milleage leaky K1200RS.

Had a hard time back then even finding specs.Even repairs at dealers didn't seem to last for a lot of owners.

Pull seal and install new one flush to the case.From some recent posts on the GS forums.....looks like they have also figured that one out.Flush to the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ms3RLfS1RjjQKbrn8

I think the photo link will work.Shows how dangerously close from the lube hole the lip of the seal rides on the shaft from the factory.As found on my then low milleage leaky K1200RS.

Had a hard time back then even finding specs.Even repairs at dealers didn't seem to last for a lot of owners.

Pull seal and install new one flush to the case.From some recent posts on the GS forums.....looks like they have also figured that one out.Flush to the case.
Will do. Thanks for the tip!
 
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