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Discussion Starter #1
I have the 2003 K1200RS with a cruise control problem. It is not the regular problem with the cruise control not working, it does actually work. My problem is that it is very eratic with the setting of the speed and it keeping it in memory. A few times, it suddenly increased speed while I was trying to 'reset' it. Other issues it has is that instead of increasing the speed while holding the 'SET' button forward, it lurches like it is trying to, but not quite doing it. I switch it off completely while riding, they switch it back on and it seems to function. Besides those issues, it still does not keep the 'SET' speed in memory either?
I have been discussing these problems with a fellow BMW K1200 rider who has extensive Cruise Control Experience. I used his video and documentation to diagnose my problem. Following through with that, I found that all my micro switches are in fact working and that my issue is maybe something else. While working through his video, I noticed my Cruise Control make a sound like a motor or server kicking in when I released the brake pedal. That was actually noted in his documentation, so it is to be expected.
He is suggesting that my problem, of which I personally have many.... could be that the crusie control switch in the left hand grip is at fault. I have stripped off all the plastic, done a visual inspection and tomorrow I am hoping to look into checking that handle bar switch.
I am putting a link for his great explanation and test procedure below.
To be specific on which bike I have, it is the 2003 K1200 RS with the 2 sets of 8 fuses. Apparently this differentiates the wiring diagram.
With all that said, the link for his documentation is: K1200RS - Cruise control troubleshooting tutorial
 

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I have the 2003 K1200RS with a cruise control problem. It is not the regular problem with the cruise control not working, it does actually work. My problem is that it is very eratic with the setting of the speed and it keeping it in memory. A few times, it suddenly increased speed while I was trying to 'reset' it. Other issues it has is that instead of increasing the speed while holding the 'SET' button forward, it lurches like it is trying to, but not quite doing it. I switch it off completely while riding, they switch it back on and it seems to function. Besides those issues, it still does not keep the 'SET' speed in memory either?
I have been discussing these problems with a fellow BMW K1200 rider who has extensive Cruise Control Experience. I used his video and documentation to diagnose my problem.

Following through with that, I found that all my micro switches are in fact working and that my issue is maybe something else. While working through his video, I noticed my Cruise Control make a sound like a motor or server kicking in when I released the brake pedal. That was actually noted in his documentation, so it is to be expected.
He is suggesting that my problem, of which I personally have many.... could be that the crusie control switch in the left hand grip is at fault. I have stripped off all the plastic, done a visual inspection and tomorrow I am hoping to look into checking that handle bar switch.
I am putting a link for his great explanation and test procedure below.
To be specific on which bike I have, it is the 2003 K1200 RS with the 2 sets of 8 fuses. Apparently this differentiates the wiring diagram.
....
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The prior discussion he is referring to was done recently on my YouTube page where I have a troubleshooting video for the electronic cruise-control of K1200RS-LT-GT. Because YouTube comments section does not allow to attached any files or image I suggested that he should post a question here instead.- hence he just did.

Ok... based on all the facts we had discussed earlier in YouTube comments (most of which he mentionned above) I would suggest you go into the LOWER electrical junction-box under fuel-tank. This will allow you to reach to the end-connector of the left combo handlebar switch and test each button of the Cruise-control switch for continuity. NOTE that this end connector varies depending on model year: 2003-2005 models like yours have a single connector for all functions of left hand switch. The file attachement below will only apply to these having 8 fuses per fuse-box (16 fuse slots total).

Based on your symptoms, it would appear you have a flaky, intermittent or bad connection on the micro-switch for the SET button - this is relatively common with age , water ingression or contact corrosion. Internally, the left handlebar switch is composed of many similar micro-switches: one is activated for ON-OFF (moving top button left-right) , another for SET, another for RES. There are also others similar micro-switches for Horn , left-Flasher, High beam headlight but these are not relevant for your problem. See attached PDF file below photo...

Photo below is to help located connector - it has a unique color so it is easy. Before disconnecting it from junction-box I would suggest to ALWAYS remove / isolate the battery negative pole wires (2 thick black wires) while you are working in electrical junction box. As you pull on this connector, you will need to move the small black handle in opposite direction form currently located (red arrow in photo). I do NOT recall if it moves from top to down OR opposite, but it only moves in one diretion - it is a locking handle so connector cannot pull out by itself with vibration.

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...continued as per advised...
I did not realize that the module was actually under the tank. After disconnecting the battery, I also removed the fan shroud for better access. As you noted, I found the locking button and slid the holder back to unplug the connector. I did the continuity test on all pins as specified. I did them using my continuity tester and again with ohm meter. They all read 0.5 or 0.5ohms. I did give the SET, RES and main Cruise Control button a jiggle to see if it would change the reading, but all were making excellent contact. I therefore conclude they are all functioning fine and not the problem.
I am attaching a picture of my test to show the location of the module in a wider frame for finding it.
Next I am going to just check the cruise control cable to check that there is no snagging that could be causing the problem. Any other thoughts?




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...continued as per advised...
I did not realize that the module was actually under the tank. After disconnecting the battery, I also removed the fan shroud for better access. As you noted, I found the locking button and slid the holder back to unplug the connector. I did the continuity test on all pins as specified. I did them using my continuity tester and again with ohm meter. They all read 0.5 or 0.5ohms. I did give the SET, RES and main Cruise Control button a jiggle to see if it would change the reading, but all were making excellent contact. I therefore conclude they are all functioning fine and not the problem.
I am attaching a picture of my test to show the location of the module in a wider frame for finding it.
Next I am going to just check the cruise control cable to check that there is no snagging that could be causing the problem. Any other thoughts?
OK... based on your post we may need to dig deeper. Let me explain:

I do not want to go deep into 12 Volts DC electrical theory for motorcycles or car, but one of the important principles has to do with testing a circuit that is LOADED -vs- a circuit that is NOT. A continuity test (Ohms function) as I have suggested is just a starting point as a Go / No-Go check for a very bad contact - this cannot always show the full picture of the circuit under normal load.

My experience over 18 years working on the K1200 and following 3 forums show only 1 case of a defective cruise-control main unit (located under front left fairing). Hence, this is not where I normally start the troubleshooting - we may need to go at the cruise-control main unit connector - something that I never had to do in past cases - so we are in uncharted territory here.

See attached diagram of cruise control-unit with peripherals in last photo below. This is something I did based on my experience - it is similar to the one offered in CLYMER repair manual. The numbers marked at the cruise-control unit are the pins number at the connector to this main unit under left side front fairing When the SET button is applied, you should see battery voltage (12 volts) BETWEEN Pin #2 of this connector (positive of multimeter) and Pin #5 as ground.

I hate to just buy parts in toubleshooting, but in the worst case we may need to do this. Because they are very reliable, there is a ton of used cruise-control units on EBAY from parted bike - most of these fairly cheap. HOWEVER we want to be 90% sure there is a need to try this as a last option...

IMPORTANT: one last question to explain your strange uncommon issue with cruise-control. Do you still have the ABS unit funtionning or has this K1200RS-GT been modified to work without this servo ABS modulator ?


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Discussion Starter #5
To answer your question, this bike has ABS and it is fully functional.
The Voltage on the pins you suggested is correct with +12v at pin #5 and #2. While I was at that location, I checked the SET at pin #3 and that also showed correct +12v. Hence all of that is correct.
My logic for this process was driving me nuts. If a switch works and switches work in the correct 'on' or 'off' as they are supposed to, plus correct voltages are correct, it must be something else. While doing the tests, i applied a tiny bit of jiggle and pressure on the levers and switches to check for bad connections. They all seemed very sound too.
It suddenly dawned on me about a problem I had with my Ducati which is a fine tuned racing machine. Going through the canyon corners, my throttle had a weird hesitation and then back to regular smooth operation. This happened a few more times while out on the ride. On returning home, I inspected my throttle cables and found that they were a little dry and therefore getting sticky. A touch of teflon lube and the bike was purring perfectly.
Hence with that in mind, I inspected the BMW cables in the hand throttle and what I could see on the Cruise Control. Everything looked fine and seemed smooth enough, however I did strip the hand throttle to add a little teflon lube and what do you know, a tiny bit of the rubber loom fell out. A tiny piece, but non the less. I lubed the cable and reassembled it. It did feel a bit more response even though I did not notice it being a problem before.
Test ride.... That seems to have been the trick! So in my logic, I am assuming that the cruise control was functioning all the time which the test procedure proved. However it was fighting with the throttle to actually control as it was trying to do?
I could be wrong, but for now and 3 test rides, it seems to be functioning!
So 'Sailor', thanks for your diligence and advice including the great video and documentation. It was of great use and I now understand one more piece of this bike.
 

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To answer your question, this bike has ABS and it is fully functional.
The Voltage on the pins you suggested is correct with +12v at pin #5 and #2. While I was at that location, I checked the SET at pin #3 and that also showed correct +12v. Hence all of that is correct.
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Everything looked fine and seemed smooth enough, however I did strip the hand throttle to add a little teflon lube and what do you know, a tiny bit of the rubber loom fell out. A tiny piece, but non the less. I lubed the cable and reassembled it. It did feel a bit more response even though I did not notice it being a problem before.
Test ride.... That seems to have been the trick! So in my logic, I am assuming that the cruise control was functioning all the time which the test procedure proved. However it was fighting with the throttle to actually control as it was trying to do?
I could be wrong, but for now and 3 test rides, it seems to be functioning!
So 'Sailor', thanks for your diligence and advice including the great video and documentation. It was of great use and I now understand one more piece of this bike.
Very glad it works now.
Strange that you came up with this now - timing was perfect - let me explain:

Yesterday I was re-reading your initial problem post with symptoms to see if I might have missed an important clue. My head was spinning with all info I had gathered over last 10 years from various cases - some of my own testing AND ALSO from forum member cases.

All of a sudden, I taught about a case where I had tested incorrect cable free play at the 3rd cable - this is the cable from cruise control unit to throttle-bodies. There is a free-play spec for this and it affects mainly the behavior when SET is pushed initially OR later as you ride and re-SET after having cancelled cruise operation.

In case of incorrect free-play at 3rd cable, the cruise system tend to be abrupt and sometimes overrides the current speed that yo want to SET. I do not recall if cable too-loose was worse than too-tight. The main difference with your symtoms is that there is no need to shut the cruise OR ignition-key to reset the system - it will get better when free play is set properly.

Of course, if this 3rd cable is not very smooth (too much friction or wear) then it would also cause problem / jerking action on the SET operation.

Given "some" of your symptoms, I would tend to look at this 3rd cable free play. This is assuming you had passed all the static diagnostic steps properly to confirm the free play of the other 2 cables is already correct. HOWEVER, because of the added details in your problem description AND ALSO because I have seen so many defective handlebar switches with age of these K1200, I forgot to let you know about this mechanical detail to check (3rd cable free play).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great minds think alike! LOL
I have all the plastic back on, but next time I remove it all, I would like to check that free play. Not knowing the specs, I did not delve into checking it, just that the cables moved freely.
On a side note that I also thought of in hindsight, when setting the cruise control, you can feel the Crusie Cable pulling on it. I should have put two and two together to look into that being an issue.
Do you also have documentation on that 3rd cable free play? I am assuming it is like any other cable, to adjust?
Thanks again
 

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...
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Do you also have documentation on that 3rd cable free play? I am assuming it is like any other cable, to adjust?
Thanks again
The settings and removal (if needed) of this 3rd cable is documented both in BMW shop manual AND also in CLYMER - although in both cases they are a bit brief. Either for K1200RS , K1200GT or K1200LT , the details are almost the same.

Like the cruise-control diag steps, I think this begs to be explained better with a short video. If you can wait a bit, by next Monday I should have time to make a very brief video on this. This will not be a fully edited one with intro and all the effects like I did with the other one. Just something short and simple with no voice and maybe some added text captions.
 

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The settings and removal (if needed) of this 3rd cable is documented both in BMW shop manual AND also in CLYMER - although in both cases they are a bit brief. Either for K1200RS , K1200GT or K1200LT , the details are almost the same.

Like the cruise-control diag steps, I think this begs to be explained better with a short video. If you can wait a bit, by next Monday I should have time to make a very brief video on this. This will not be a fully edited one with intro and all the effects like I did with the other one. Just something short and simple with no voice and maybe some added text captions.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi
To be honest, your videos and documentation is some of the best I have ever used,
I will gladly wait until you make the video. Seeing is easier than reading and following single images.
I will look forward to seeing it!
Thank you
 

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The settings and removal (if needed) of this 3rd cable is documented both in BMW shop manual AND also in CLYMER - although in both cases they are a bit brief. Either for K1200RS , K1200GT or K1200LT , the details are almost the same.

Like the cruise-control diag steps, I think this begs to be explained better with a short video.
..
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A bit late... sorry. Finally edited video and uploaded to YouTube a few minutes ago.
Unlike my previous cruise-control Video , this one is "unlisted" - hence it is not visible like the other on my YouTube channel. You must have this link below to view it.

Done without a tripod, without any fancy video editing - just something quick to explain visually. You get a few more tips not covered in CLYMER and BMW shop manual. PLEASE let me know what you think ;-)

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Excellent! Thank you.
I currently have an old '76 Honda CB750 Four that I am rebuilding the engine for a friend. Once I get that out, this is next on my list...
Thanks again
 

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Excellent! Thank you.
I currently have an old '76 Honda CB750 Four that I am rebuilding the engine for a friend. Once I get that out, this is next on my list...
Thanks again
Honda CB750 - 1976... Hahh! the good old days.
with only 4 carburetors to synch and to clean when gummed up
with mediocre handling / suspension - like most bike of this era
with mediocre brakes - like most bike of this era
Still... good memories and a very good bike overall for its price point in this period - typical Honda.

Would love to see a few pictures - either in pieces or complete.
 
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