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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2005 K1200 gt with 67k, riding at 70 / 80 I smell of rubber burning as if of tires, without any warning light engine shakes left to right and dies under the shade of a tree, The recent service history includes a new fuel pump and filter, and a fresh air filter.
I would like to chase down what in the motorcycle world might have happened and fix it myself, any idea or theory much appreciated.
Thank
 

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More facts are needed. Coolant level or out? Oil level or out? Or could it be just an electrical failure and you were smelling burnt wiring. What will the bike do now? Other visible clues to failure? Rod sticking out of case?
 

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2005 K1200 gt with 67k, riding at 70 / 80 I smell of rubber burning as if of tires, without any warning light engine shakes left to right and dies under the shade of a tree, The recent service history includes a new fuel pump and filter, and a fresh air filter.
I would like to chase down what in the motorcycle world might have happened and fix it myself, any idea or theory much appreciated.
Thank
here where the gremlins escaped! Never seen this before in my motorcycling career.
WHAT WAS YOUR OIL LEVEL at time of failure ?? Measured on center stand only on level surface.

I suspect a broken connecting-rod on cylinder number 1 (front cylinder). You need to remove this crankcase cover to confirm. This has happened mainly on the early engines of K1200RS (1997 and a few early 1998 production). See attached photo of one of these cases.

Somewhere mid 1998, BMW changed the connecting-rods design and the bolts attaching the bottom half of the rods - from then on there has been VERY FEW of these failures. Keep in mind the K1200GT of 2003-2005 use the same engine as a K1200RS of the same era.

During last 15 years on 3 different K1200RS forums, I have seen many such failure on the early engines (1997-1998), but only 1 case on later models like yours. If this is your problem, then you would be the 2nd case (that I am aware) for later engines using the new connecting rods design.

IMPORTANT: A lack of lubrication (low oil level) OR lack of oil pressure (defective oil pump , bad install of oil filter , loose oil filter) can cause exactly the same result as above. Cylinder 1 connecting rod oil flow is such that it tends to fail before the other in such condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This seems indeed be the case. Oil level was just a tad below center mark, tomorrow will open her up and check oil filter and pull crankcase cover off to assess repairing or scrapping for parts.

Needless to say I'm stupified!
 

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This seems indeed be the case. Oil level was just a tad below center mark, tomorrow will open her up and check oil filter and pull crankcase cover off to assess repairing or scrapping for parts.

Needless to say I'm stupified!
Oil level "just a tad below center mark" is NOT a problem.

Was there an oil filter change just before this happens ? If so, check for all these items:
- oil filter used (brand / number)
- oil filter being loose
- usage of 2 rubber gasket on top of oil filter. I have seen cases where the old rubber gasket from old filter being removed stayed stuck on top and the new one was accidentely installed over this one.

I AM VERY CURIOUS to see photos of what you find behind the crankcase cover...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
full scale survey of a blown brick engine

John, you seem to know this subject well and I am grateful of your knowledge and help.
Indeed oil filter was replaced with a fram PH6063 less than 2 months ago, just hand tightening as I always did, but without two gaskets as you mentioned. Oil Level tells a quarter of oil is missing, this in less than two months use.

Apologies for orientation of pictures, left side of bearing in first picture corresponds to top of engine.

Connecting rod of piston #1 disintegrated, bearing destroyed, crankshaft a mess, some engine case shavings.

Piston #2 appears dry compared to #3, #4. probably next to immediate failure.

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions!
 

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I am not a Fram fan.Somethin strange about them is that the threads are 3/4-16 ? BMW threads are 20mm.

FRAM Motorcycle Full-Flow Spin-on Oil Filter PH6063 | FRAM

I'd cut it open for an inspection.Other than that I have heard of the odd blown post 98 engine.But not many.Still keeping an eye on mine at now +285000 kms.Using a little oil as in 1L/10,000kms but oil pressure has been steady at over 70psi for all them years watching my proper oil pressure gauge.

Idiot light spec is 5-8psi coming ON which is too late for most engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
no engine light on mine whatsoever, just dead. Idiot myself too for not checking oil level on regular basis; you just can't trust instrumentation panel to save your bacon.
 

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John, you seem to know this subject well and I am grateful of your knowledge and help.
Indeed oil filter was replaced with a fram PH6063 less than 2 months ago, just hand tightening as I always did, but without two gaskets as you mentioned. Oil Level tells a quarter of oil is missing, this in less than two months use.

Apologies for orientation of pictures, left side of bearing in first picture corresponds to top of engine.

Connecting rod of piston #1 disintegrated, bearing destroyed, crankshaft a mess, some engine case shavings.

Piston #2 appears dry compared to #3, #4. probably next to immediate failure.

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions!
Thanks for photos. I AM SURPRISED that you did not feel strange vibrations OR some engine / rod noise a few miles before total failure. I personally know of 3 owners of the "problematic" 1997 models who have reported some noise before failure.

Very uncommon for the later engine with the newer design connecting rods to fail this way. This is why I suspect lack of oil pressure - certainly not caused by your oil level - as long as you can see oil in the small window you are ok. Something else happened in your case: maybe a bad oil filter (I do not like FRAM either) or oil pressure became too low for some other reason. Too late now to test oil pressure circuit with the engine in this shape...

Given the cost of parts AND the risk of other internal damage, it is neither logical or economical to repair such an engine. My local friend who had such failure on a 1997 bough a good used engine on EBAY for about $US400 about 10 years ago. He did his homework to take a "parts breaker" who had good feedback on EBAY , asked for high res pictures from all sides and he was also a bit lucky... This "spare" engine from a 2002 had fairly low mileage and runs very well (was front end accident on bike).
 

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no engine light on mine whatsoever, just dead. Idiot myself too for not checking oil level on regular basis; you just can't trust instrumentation panel to save your bacon.
As H96669 said in his previous post, the oil pressure warning light comes ON only on very low oil pressure. Not very useful unless engine is idling and you happen to see it - at cruising RPM the engine will not last long at 8 PSI.

I only use BOSH oil filters (number 3330) OR MAHLE OC91. This MAHLE oil filter is in fact exactly the same as you get in the BMW box at dealer - but you can get it for about $10 less. If you can find it "MANN" model "MW712" is also a very good compatible oil filter (do not use "W712" as this one is very different).
 

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Silly idiot light! Mine didn't work early this summer as the connector loosened up.Had to rely on the gauge for a while then later poke at it some from the side with a long screwdriver to get the contact back.Bad location the sender as it is exposed to road crap/water and salt.

Filters? I mostly use the Wix "made in Austria" by Mann as Mann owns Wix.Listed in the Wix catalog for the Ks and some Rs.My local autoparts get them in for me.Almost identical in all internal components to the OEMs and if that matters unpainted.

Mostly use them Wixes but I removed one last sunday and installed a Mobil M1-102.

Significant drop in oil pressure from using a Fram?Had that experience but that was on my old GMC van/350.And not just once so Fram never again.I even cut some brand new ones open back then and one wasn't even crimped at the pleats.:sad
 
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I just experienced this failure. The bolts holding the cap to the connecting rod failed, releasing the rod, and the rod came up through the top of the block. The oil level is good, no recent maintenance was done either. Probably had 4,000 miles since the last oil change. No other symptoms besides dieing on the highway with LOTS of oil pooling on the road. Lot's of oil still in the engine as well. 2004 K1200GG
 
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