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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am stationed in Italy and have had my bike here since June 2019. I have been reading for weeks now trying to solve the problem.
65k, owned it since 2015, never had an issue.
Dealer installed new airbox, temp sensor, and TPS.
Dealer has given up and asked me to take to bike back.
If I clear the ECU, disconnect the battery for a couple hours, hook it back up, perform TPS reset, the bike runs great for about 20 minutes, 12-15 miles. Even if I shut it off and start it up again.
But then it starts stuttering again.
I have reset it, several times and it always runs great for about 20 minutes. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update: so I disconnect the battery, then disconnect O2 sensor, wait an hour, reconnect the battery, reset the TPS, and off I go and it runs like new! 22 miles later, starts to stutter and stall again.
Tried the same with the airbox temp sensor, same results...
Please help, love my bike and it runs so good for those 20 miles or so. I'm not an expert, but it seems like the computer is making an adjustment and screwing everything up. I don't believe it can be anything mechanical. But I'm running out of options and the dealership does not want to see my bike back!
 

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I am stationed in Italy and have had my bike here since June 2019. I have been reading for weeks now trying to solve the problem.
65k, owned it since 2015, never had an issue.
Dealer installed new airbox, temp sensor, and TPS.
Dealer has given up and asked me to take to bike back.
If I clear the ECU, disconnect the battery for a couple hours, hook it back up, perform TPS reset, the bike runs great for about 20 minutes, 12-15 miles. Even if I shut it off and start it up again.
But then it starts stuttering again.
I have reset it, several times and it always runs great for about 20 minutes. Any ideas?
Fuel tank venting properly? Sounds crazy but I've had other small engines do this. get enough vacuum in the tank and the pump don't pump no more!
 

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Dealership said it was. I unplugged it and ran it. The same thing happened after about 20 miles.
Sorry, I know nothing about your problem but felt I should offer that if you unplugged the O2 sensor and the same thing happened after 20 miles, would that not imply the O2 sensor is not working?
 

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I am stationed in Italy and have had my bike here since June 2019. I have been reading for weeks now trying to solve the problem.
65k, owned it since 2015, never had an issue.
Dealer installed new airbox, temp sensor, and TPS.
Dealer has given up and asked me to take to bike back.
If I clear the ECU, disconnect the battery for a couple hours, hook it back up, perform TPS reset, the bike runs great for about 20 minutes, 12-15 miles. Even if I shut it off and start it up again.
But then it starts stuttering again.
I have reset it, several times and it always runs great for about 20 minutes. Any ideas?
I have had a similar problem with my 2006 K1200S, about 65K mileage. There is a small control unit outboard of the fuel tank that controls the fuel pump inside the tank. It's function (as I understand it) is to switch the pump off during de-acceleration (to save fuel or lower emissions on overun). Apparently you can make up a wiring adaptor to bypass this unit, making the pump run all the time while the engine is running, but I chose to get a second hand unit instead. Make sure it's the right one because the plugs are different from different models. I can't say whether this has fixed my bike as yet as I'm waiting for a new battery to arrive (hopefully today)...I'll update you asap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fuel tank venting properly? Sounds crazy but I've had other small engines do this. get enough vacuum in the tank and the pump don't pump no more!
Thanks for input. Have opened the tank to try and hear vacuum suction, but didn't hear anything. Plus bike still runs bad after opening the tank. Only runs good if I perform the ECU clear and TPS reset. It's driving me crazy. Thanks again.
Sorry, I know nothing about your problem but felt I should offer that if you unplugged the O2 sensor and the same thing happened after 20 miles, would that not imply the O2 sensor is not working?
I thought the same thing, but was looking for a different result. I also unplugged all the other sensors and the results are the same Everytime. I would think Something should act differently. Appreciate the thought. Besides dealer tested it and said it was good.
I have had a similar problem with my 2006 K1200S, about 65K mileage. There is a small control unit outboard of the fuel tank that controls the fuel pump inside the tank. It's function (as I understand it) is to switch the pump off during de-acceleration (to save fuel or lower emissions on overun). Apparently you can make up a wiring adaptor to bypass this unit, making the pump run all the time while the engine is running, but I chose to get a second hand unit instead. Make sure it's the right one because the plugs are different from different models. I can't say whether this has fixed my bike as yet as I'm waiting for a new battery to arrive (hopefully today)...I'll update you asap.
Thanks! Do you have a picture or exact location of this part? Not sure exactly which part you are talking about. Please keep me posted!
 

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Thanks for input. Have opened the tank to try and hear vacuum suction, but didn't hear anything. Plus bike still runs bad after opening the tank. Only runs good if I perform the ECU clear and TPS reset. It's driving me crazy. Thanks again.

I thought the same thing, but was looking for a different result. I also unplugged all the other sensors and the results are the same Everytime. I would think Something should act differently. Appreciate the thought. Besides dealer tested it and said it was good.

Thanks! Do you have a picture or exact location of this part? Not sure exactly which part you are talking about. Please keep me posted!
Hi Awdet,Can't show a pic without removing the tank again. However when you disconnect the tank there are two electrical connections, one is for the fuel gauge, the other is to the fuel pump in side the tank.This is the connection to the contol unit I was talking about. It's actually attached to the fuel tank assembly. Be careful disconnecting/reconnecting the 'quick release' fuel line too, as the white plastic parts become brittle with age (because of the heat in the area on top of the engine?) There is a metal one available from Motorworks.co.uk if you break it. Once you have freed the the tank from the bike you will see there is a small module it has a alloy heat sink on it. It is bolted to the fuel pump assembly. Once you remove it, you will find another connector, this is the power supply and earth for the fuel pump itself. You can rig up a wiring adaptor to this and then test the bike again. Look very carefully at all the wires in this areas too as there still could be a break in the wiring loom nearby. Good luck! Let me know how you go....I'm still waiting for my new battery from ebay.
 

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The ECU on BMW can learn how you drive and operate the bike. It can adjust to your riding environment and can adjust to changes like a different slip-on. Since you are resetting the ECU and it runs fine for a while then starts your problem again seems to me there is sensor of sorts that makes the ECU adjust it's self out of tune. Also the mileage or age of the components reinforces my opinion. I reset my BMW, Volvo, Toyota cars ECU every 30,000 miles or so as most auto manufacturers have followed BMW's lead with ECU that can adjust themselves. The reset is useful as parts wear in and you reset the ECU it "learns" the car/motorcycle as it is now. Has the dealer done a scan on the bike to fine a sensor that is not performing correctly? A good OBDII scanner might turn up something. Since the air box change and TPS and other sensors it seems to me there is where I would be looking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Awdet,Can't show a pic without removing the tank again. However when you disconnect the tank there are two electrical connections, one is for the fuel gauge, the other is to the fuel pump in side the tank.This is the connection to the contol unit I was talking about. It's actually attached to the fuel tank assembly. Be careful disconnecting/reconnecting the 'quick release' fuel line too, as the white plastic parts become brittle with age (because of the heat in the area on top of the engine?) There is a metal one available from Motorworks.co.uk if you break it. Once you have freed the the tank from the bike you will see there is a small module it has a alloy heat sink on it. It is bolted to the fuel pump assembly. Once you remove it, you will find another connector, this is the power supply and earth for the fuel pump itself. You can rig up a wiring adaptor to this and then test the bike again. Look very carefully at all the wires in this areas too as there still could be a break in the wiring loom nearby. Good luck! Let me know how you go....I'm still waiting for my new battery from ebay.
Thanks I'll try it this weekend and let you know how it goes
The ECU on BMW can learn how you drive and operate the bike. It can adjust to your riding environment and can adjust to changes like a different slip-on. Since you are resetting the ECU and it runs fine for a while then starts your problem again seems to me there is sensor of sorts that makes the ECU adjust it's self out of tune. Also the mileage or age of the components reinforces my opinion. I reset my BMW, Volvo, Toyota cars ECU every 30,000 miles or so as most auto manufacturers have followed BMW's lead with ECU that can adjust themselves. The reset is useful as parts wear in and you reset the ECU it "learns" the car/motorcycle as it is now. Has the dealer done a scan on the bike to fine a sensor that is not performing correctly? A good OBDII scanner might turn up something. Since the air box change and TPS and other sensors it seems to me there is where I would be looking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks I'll try it this weekend and let you know how it goes
Thanks du907,
I absolutely agree with you. The dealership had the bike for 2 additional times for 2-3 each time. The mechanic was so frustrated. According to him, he swapped every sensor, replaced vacuum lines, but could never figure it out. Last week I took it to another BMW Mottorrad dealer, who told me it could take him 5 minutes or 5 days to find the problem and I would pay by the hour. And there was no guarantee he could fix it. I am trying things myself based on everyone's input. So keep the ideas coming. Thanks.
 

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Awdet,
Since the mechanic is frustrated with your bike, he just wants to get rid of you so he can make his money instead of fixing what he broke. Anyway, reading through your post again, if the mechanic has changed all these parts it will be difficult to pin-point the problem because the best way to trouble shoot is change one thing at a time. Whenever I do my maintenance or part changing I do one thing at a time and check that before I move on. I have Ducatis and I have adjusted the TPS and changed other sensors and the TPS was the biggest booger. Small, minute changes made a big difference and as soon as I had it set perfectly, I would tighten the screws down and it would be out of spec. It was a pain to get right. So to me that is the first sensor I would start to check. Seems you have to have a meter (BMW probably has a special meter) on it and turn until you get the appropriate reading then tighten down and recheck at full close, and then at full open. I bet the other dealer will find it quicker than 5 days!
 

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If you get an OBDII scanner and adapter you should be able to see the sensor values and fuel input.
Something is making the ECU decide to stop the engine. You need to work out what input is wrong if any, or what the ECU is trying to do.
If all the inputs are working, then the ECU is faulty, or the open circuit outputs are not working. The sparks and injectors don't have direct feedback to the ECU and may be faulty or partially faulty without the ECU "knowing".

You need someone who understands the control logic and is willing to look at everything, or you need to learn it.
Stuttering could be fueling wrong, or sparking wrong.

I am happy to discuss it if you want.
 

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If the mechanic did not replace the fuel pump control module, I would take Rowdy’s suggestion and start there. Mine failed totally, so it was a bit easier to diagnose, I also have a GS-911. That actually confused things a bit due to it telling me the breaker for the fuel pump was off. Knowing at least that it was a fuel pump issue I dug I got the service DVD and discovered the control module. It was over $350 from BMW and about $175 from an online source. So I looked for another solution to troubleshoot and found this:


If your module is failing due to heat and not leaving a code, this will allow you to eliminate or confirm it. It will need to be connected directly to the battery as the powerlet plug on the side of the bike can’t handle the draw of the pump. Also, apparently guys with GSs have run the bypass cable indefinitely rather than pay for another module that will fail.

Here is the link to the controller:

 
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