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2006 BMW K1200 GT Fuel Tank Quick Disconnects

The following is my attempt at DYI for varying updates/maintenance.
Remove the Battery (see separate DYI in HOW).
Remove side fairings (plastics) (see separate DYI in HOW).
Remove the Fuel Tank (see separate DYI in HOW).

Parts required:
Chromed brass Quick Disconnects: Beemerboneyard.com, Item# BBcpcqkdisconK12S, $39.95
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdisconk12s.html
Fuel Pump flange repair clamp: Beemerboneyard.com, Item# BBRK12FUELPMPCLMP, $34.95
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/rk12fuelpmpclmp.html

The replacement of the OEM fuel Quick Disconnects is advised due to the fact that BMW had these parts made of plastic which because of their location can become brittle, crack and leak. This directly over a hot engine isn’t good. The replacement of the QDs (male and female) with metal aftermarket ones is highly recommended.

Also recommended is the addition of the flange collar clamp. The flange is the female part of the fuel tank itself where the female QD is installed. This area tends to crack around the flange which may create a leak around the QD’s threads. BMW’s fix is a whole new fuel tank that has a updated flange with metal imbedded. The repair clamp noted will fix the problem without the cost of a new tank.

On to the replacement.
With the tank in a comfortable location (sans fuel below the QD location) remove the plastic OEM female QD. Use of a ¾” or 19mm open end wrench is advised. The OEM QD looks to be a one piece as the tank itself. It is not. It is on there tight though so be careful. As be warned that the flange is also raised and not to try to move it…it IS part of the tank.





Notice in the pic above that my tank fuel pump flange DID have a crack in it. I did not have a leak but I’m guessing it was only a matter of time.
New QD (female, tank)…photo courtesy of Grifscoots


Advised to ‘play’ with the male/female QDs before installing them to be aware of how they function together. This will make it easier when it comes to connecting them in the limited space available.
Clear off the female threads (tank) of any white residue. Judiciously wrap some Teflon tape on the female QDs threads and insert and tighten into tank flange. I do not know of a torque setting for this so be careful and do not over tighten.


Then if required add some plastic repair to the crack if you have one. Then add the Fuel Pump flange repair clamp. Make sure the clamp is flush with the tank and tighten. Tank QD is complete.



On to the fuel line QD. The OEM is plastic and is difficult nay impossible to remove from the fuel line tube so just cut it off as close as possible the OEM QD. Insert new male QD in fuel line with hose clamp and tighten.



You are now complete with the installation of the fuel line QDs.
Re-installation of the tank is reverse of the fuel tank removal.
Per PeterPeter211:
I HIGHY RECOMMEND that once you reinstall the fuel tank and BEFORE you bolt it down and reattach panels, that you turn the key on to run the fuel pump and check for leaks at the quick disconnect. Then start the motor and recheck for leaks.

Fuel tank back in position. Proceed with bolting the tank back in.


Of course it is your decision but there are a few “while I’m at it”s that can be taken care of while the tank is out.
These can be but are not limited to the following:
Charcoal Canister by-pass (see separate DYI in HOW).
Throttle stop motor(stepper motor) repositioning (see separate DYI in HOW).
Booster Plug (engine/fuel management black box) (see separate DYI in HOW).

I hope all this was helpful.
KBMWRS (Mike)
 

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Thanks for the effort Mike, I have to do this job soon and have never had the tank out before so the write-ups will be very helpful.
 
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