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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have had an intermittent lampf error come and go while The light still worked ….it would come on then when the bike ride a bit it would disappear and all was good again …
this went on for a week or two before the lampf just stayed on but the light still worked.
until the other day when I pulled out the bulb to replace it engine though the old one seemed good …well once I did this I still had the lampf error but now the low beam didn’t work anymore ..
put the old bulb back in but same thing..
so then in noticed that someone had put crappy spade connectors on there and the yellow wires connector was very lose so thought Ah ok this is probably it …put new heat shrink connectors on there …still nothing lampf and no low beam ..

looked in the user manual …in the beginning of the manual it labels the bigger side of the two lamps as the high beam and the smaller side as the low beam ….so figured wtf if that’s the case someone switched around the wiring …but further in the manual in the section that covers removing the headlamp assembly it lists the opposite lol so guessing it’s just an error in the manual.

so I’m thinking now maybe the opposite end of those wires that go to the low beam bulb maybe one of them has come off or is corroded etc where it attaches to the wiring harness…or maybe I have a bad relay ..last possibility bad switch although the low beam is always on with this bike ? Just taking logical guesses here ..

so when taking off the wiring at the back of the headlamp assembly anyone knows how those connectors work to release them ? I don’t want to break one while removing the wires …

anyone know where the headlamp relay may be on this bike or if there is even one given the low beam is just always on?
fuse box for the k12r?

any other advice and ideas what to look at and check?

was weird that the lampf came and went ..which makes me think lose connections as once the bike vibrated a bit it would go away …also weird that I had lampf but a working low beam then the low beam just stopped working once changing the bulb …yeah dunno it’s dig in the wiring time ..

I used a multimeter attached it to the two spade connectors for the low beam turned the key where I’m guessing I should see 12 v but got zero …just realised now however the headlamp doesn’t come on until you start the bike usually so will go test that again after starting the bike ..

many thanks in advance for any help advice etc ! I have to get my bike safety tested in the next 2 days to register it and of course this happens now where they won’t pass the bike without the low beam working ..it’s my only transport so yeah need to fix it asap…

thanks all
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok so doing some research here ….figured out there are no fuses relays etc it’s all electronically controlled shut etc by the computer ..so saves anyone having to explain that to me ..
also someone else having a similar issue was told to disconnect the battery for at least 30 mins then change the bulb and try again ..seemed to work for them ..so I’m giving that a go now before I do anything else ..will update if it solves the issue so I don’t take anyone time writing replies un necessarily …
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok so no go ..left the battery disconnected for an hour did the hard reset and have the exact same issues…I had my doubts I would be that lucky hahah….
another weird thing that just happened ..I shut the bike off with the turn signal on as I was rushing…everything went off but the rear running light it stayed on until I turned the bike back on turned off the indicator and shut the bike off again …weird ..I’m hoping these are not signs off the ecu headed out! on my last bike niggly little weird problems were the pre cursor to the ecu dying ..one by one little things stopped working until the ecu just dumped ..like side stand kill switch ..head lamp etc etc I think I read the ecus for these things are like 3k…

so tomorrow I will pull off the head lamp assembly again but all the way this time …I didn’t want to disconnect the wires as I was not sure how those clips worked and didn’t want to break one … in the past my experience is if I dont know how the clip functions I end up breaking the damned thing so yeah hoping to hear from someone that has taken all of that off before once I have the assembly off I will check the other end of the wires that connect to the bulb …not quite sure how you can get to them will figure it out once the part is off… doesn’t look like the headlamp assembly comes apart ..will make it challenging to work on any wiring problems in there …

any other ideas in addition to these to check tomorrow? Given this bike doesn’t have fuses or relays and there is no switch to check for the low beam as it is always on not sure what else to check?

another symptom I noticed before the low beam stopped working but lampf was displayed …the low beam seemed really really bright ..in fact I turned on the high beam with the low beam on and the low beam was much brighter than the high beam …just seemed brighter than it should be to me anyways…I was surpised at how bright and blinding it was something seemed off anyways …dunno if this explains anything or not ?
 

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How old is the battery ? And assuming these K1200 run a similar alternator set up to the K1300, I'd be checking the alternator. I reckon the rectifier is close to dying (explains the bright lights and odd signals). Also check all earth connectors and any wiring that may have rubbed through and is contacting the chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Erick thanks so much for your input and help ! Ok so will give the alternator a check as I am at a loss of how to fix this right now .. my bike is an 06 but the mileage is pretty good with only 45 k kms ..very low For a 16 year old bike but could be time that things like alternators start to go..
have checked all the wiring as far as I could anyways ..had the whole assembly off today and yeah you can’t get to the junction inside to check that end ..but double checked all of the clamps wiring etc
so yeah no bad wires anywhere can’t check that main junction a s it is inside the light assembly and the light assembly is a solid piece and cannot be opened.. but did tug on the wires and they seemed very solid.. ..the plug end attached to the wiring loom has a rubber boot over it ..could be a bad connection in there …just have been apprehensive of taking the rubber boot off as it may not go back on or break in the process and that boot is the only protection from water and rain for those wires and I ride in the rain a lot…
I may have to get a whole new lamp assembly as if it is something in that internal junction box you just can’t get to it to fix it anyways ….
The computer knows the lamp is getting no power …I used a multimeter and ran the bike ..getting 0 volts at the bulb connector so somewhere a wire is off or corroded etc probably in that junction you can’t get to ! Would make sense that the bike vibrating used to make lampf go away…
has anyone tried those led versions you can get on eBay any experiences with them? They are around the same price as the oem but supposedly brighter and look kind of cool…
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So just to cap off what I think I have figured out in case someone is having a similar issue in the future …since everyone is usually very helpful here and not many have chimed in ….this particular issue is uncommon and has not been discussed here.

so I was thinking of getting into that rubber boot over the plug that’s connected to the wiring loom to see if maybe there is a bad connection in there .. even if I ruined the boot I would figure out how to protect the wires again from water…

what I think I’m seeing from some wiring diagrams is the power For all of the lighting comes in through there ..in other words if there was a bad connection there neither of the headlamps would have power ….the split off to send power to the low beam happens in that junction you can’t get to inside the headlamp assembly which the plug with the rubebr boot plugs into …. from the diagrams there is no connection in that boot which heads off to the low beam so would be pointless opening it up as I know power is making it to the junction because the high beam works.. that plug just dumps 12 v into that junction which then sends the power off two Ways one to each lamp. The parking or side light comes in independently with its own little plug…

‘’therefore if I am right about this my problem has to be in that junction ..so unless I can find a way to access where the wires attach to that junction and heads off to the low beam I just need to get a whole new head lamp assembly …

kind of dumb design to have multiple electrical connections that can get Lose or corroded and are inaccessible ! Or a clever design in that instead of an easy 5 minute fix people have to spend 600 bucks for a whole new part …not sure which one.

I will the assembly off again tomorrow and see if I can figure out a way to gain access to those connections …didn’t want to do it before as if I wreck parts of it and the problem is elsewhere I would be breaking it for nothing but now I have nothing to lose …may see if I can cut an access port on the bottom maybe I could put the door back in once I have done the repairs to the wiring ..

again I’m far from an expert so could be wrong here ….but will push on until I figure it out and then post what the deal was and how to fix it for people To find here in the future.
 

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You could try taking the headlamp unit out and with a multimeter test each pin on the main connector, leaving the Com (black wire on your multimeter on the neutral wire (usually also black) and then testing each one for resistance. Any that test infinite resistance is your broken wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Erik thanks for that I will try your suggestion !
The hard part will be trying to figure out which one of those spades in the junction is the neutral ….I think it’s 5 metal spades sticking up in there but it’s hard to tell what wire is connected to what as you can’t see the connections of that junction box… it’s in there in such a way where the wires just disappear into it you can’t see how or where they are connecting ..a little messing around and I will figure it out!
was going to work on this today but felt like a ride instead ..will try and hit it tomorrow…
 

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Erik thanks for that I will try your suggestion !
The hard part will be trying to figure out which one of those spades in the junction is the neutral ….I think it’s 5 metal spades sticking up in there but it’s hard to tell what wire is connected to what as you can’t see the connections of that junction box… it’s in there in such a way where the wires just disappear into it you can’t see how or where they are connecting ..a little messing around and I will figure it out!
was going to work on this today but felt like a ride instead ..will try and hit it tomorrow…

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I have this problem too, when I'm getting ready to do something, but I want to do something else, like go for a ride :) But did you solve your problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry for the delay on the update ..instead of working on the headlight…much like positron mentioned I went on a couple days of bigger rides and took my frustrations out on the road! have another ride planned for today then tomorrow will hit the headlamp again..
Erik ..I am not that good with electrics …I did pull the head lamp assembly off again the day you posted your suggestion ….and tried to do what you mentioned but in the end not sure which connection was tye neutral …in the end I did manage to figure out which connectors were for what using the circuit function of the multimeter ….the low beam circuit seems to be broken so I believe my problem is in that wiring junction …. I tried putting dielectric grease on those posts in case it Was a help …only worry with the dielectric is because it’s conductive if you use too much etc i could cause a short…..
another member of this website was kind enough to send me a wiring schematic … at first I didn’t understand the diagram but went and got a legend on the web and it does seem to confirm what I thought …12 v comes into that junction from the wiring with the boot then is split off into two 12 v channels In the junction ..one to each bulb…so the split happens in the junction in the headlamp assembly not before, tahts what I believe I understand from the diagram .… I then searched the web for people posting about similar issues did not find any directly relating to the k12r but other k models had a known ground wire issue in similar junction boxes where they come off or corrode ..I found quite a few threads talking about other k bikes and this problem I think many of them were here on this website and was the RS and gt models I think…while it’s not exactly the same system it is similar but they can actually manage to get to the negative or brown wire that comes off on those models.
So I can’t really do anything further as I can’t get under that junction to even take a look …tugging on the wires they feel very solid but doesn’t mean they are …..there is some corrosion on a screw just under the junction that the wires run across.
Time to think outside the box …either I just say forget the low beam and keep going with just the high beam but if I’m off on a long trip at night and lose the high beam I have no redundancy and could get stuck somewhere waiting for morning so don’t like that idea …or I hire a bike electrician to fix it …..or one final idea which I wouldn’t do unless at a dead end ….

drill four holes in a box shape at the bottom of the lighting assembly then with a dremel with a cutting head cut out a square piece or door on the assembly directly underneath the junction to allow me access …fix the damned wires then put that square piece back in with something like silicone where if I need to remove it again I can easily take it out and put it back …..it’s under the assembly so would not be visible and would give me an access door to that wiring something that should of been designed in there in the first place.
I wonder does the k1300 r or newer models than 2006 of the 1200r have some sort of access port for the head lamp wiring anyone know ? If so would love to know where it is as I would create my make shift port in the same location …

pokitren …I do want my low beam back so I am going to push on …i will post here exactly what I did if successful with pictures if I cut an access hole… I will get to the bottom of this and be sure to post what I did in case it’s a help for you and others !

i owe this website and it’s members plenty of return favours as this place has been so helpful over the year I have had this bike …without this place and the people here I would be thousands of dollars more into keeping her running!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have some weird news but unfortunately it’s not going to help pokitren out …all of a sudden while riding tonight my low beam came back on and stayed on ove r multiple starts and 2 hours of riding ….i wish I could say what changed!

the lampf error remains on the screen but the headlight works so it’s still detecting an error or maybe a code needs to be cleared? ..given it came back in such a manner and not because of a repair I’m assuming this will go bad again at some point… it’s gotta be some wire is lose and a bump or something fixes or breaks it… maybe the next big bump no more low beam lol

i Had a friend that’s more experienced with motorcycle wiring come over today when I tore it apart again ….he double checked the head lamp assembly and that junction box and found all the circuits to be good ..but the lamp was still not coming on so he pulled off that rubber boot on the plug that plugs into the junction in the assembly …found all the wires to be good and solid in there as well and 12 v coming to the junction …so we were at a loss given the low beam still did not work…

‘’I did a bunch more research and learned a little about that zfe unit that is all to do with switches circuits and the Canbus system …apparently if it detects a short or other problem in a system lights whatever it can. Shut off or disable that circuit …so was thinking Maybe the zfe was detecting or detected something and shut off the power to the always on when running low beam …

‘’anyways never got to the bottom of it the low beam is working but still have the lampf error …

pokitren on a few threads I cam across where people were having the same problem with other k bikes the way they fixed it was simply by doing a hard reset and it solved their problem ….they disconnected the battery overnight reconnected and it all worked again …I tried this but only disconnected for an hour and a half ..dunno maybe overnight is necessary but yeah may be worth a shot for you and a simple fix in case it works …sorry I couldn’t be of more help!
if I manage to figure it out with time will post it here…

just a quick question if anyone that reads this knows …I have come across a bunch of gs911 compatible units sold on Ali expresss for like 60 bucks …huge difference in price from elsewhere .., do these work at all? Anyone have experience with the cheapy gs911 units ? Or are you likely to like kill your bike with them haha you get what you pay for right !
anither question I came across a thread on here where someone was asking about the updated gauges computer as he put it …you know instead of just 2 odometers and the fuel display you get ambient air temps ..avg mpg tire pressure monitoring etc ….someone mentioned that every model has these features they just need to be enabled by a gs911 ….does anyone know is taht actually the case?
 

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Forget the cheap GS911s. They are chinese copies and the firmware and software are unable to be updated. Neither do i think the GS911 can unlock those extra features unfortunately.
 

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Not much help with the electrics, but I use a GS911 for diagnostics. I've had it for a few years and three BMW K bikes. It works well for me. Motoscan would probably be a better value for money option, but will only work on an android device and I can't be bothered changing phones. If you elect to go with a GS911, don't go the cheap knock off route. The GS911 software options and haeware are all upgradable via the company's website.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Capt howdy : thanks for that mate! I definately won’t waste my 60 bucks on that given what you mentioned !
ah so that thread I read where you can enable the extra options on the computer with a gs911 is nonsense …good to know, maybe the dealer can enable them…will give them a call and find out.

erik : I had a book mark for the Motoscan unit was thinking of getting it awhile back , thanks for letting me know it’s a viable working option. although I am on iOS with all my devices and after reading everything here maybe it’s better to just spend the moolah especially considering I’m am utterly hooked on bmw bikes now and don’t see myself ever changing so having that tool sounds like a really wise investment!

kaus : thanks for your input mate ! I’m so glad you chimed in as I was about to go and get the Motoscan before my reading these posts ! I will take everyone’s word for it that going the cheaper route is not the best way ….the gs911 is just basically an obd2 reader for bmws right ? What all can you actually do with this device, just diagnostics or is there more to it ?

im still amazed at this bloody head light still working away after a bunch of riding today …still have a lampf error on the gauges …..my low beam also seems pretty damned bright, maybe it just is that bright not sure …any ideas what may cause a bulb to be brighter than is normal ?
when I also turn the high beam on …I swear to me anyway it seems like the low beam is a bit brighter than the high beam ….maybe I’m imagining it lol…


check this error out from the 2006 user manual for the k1200r …in the beginning of the manual in a diagram it shows the bigger reflector as the high beam …..you go further on to the lighting section and it states the opposite haha
It’s obvious one of the previous owners of my bike has done some work on the head lamp as the plug for the bulb was removed and two crappy spade connectors were on there with no heat shrink or anything and the hec bolts that hold the assembly in are all chewed up from someone using a tool that was tool small and slipping ..have fixed the connectors and put a nice hunk shrink spade on there ….
so for a second I thought maybe he switched the wiring around so the high beam was always on when I saw the diagram ….. the bigger side of the two reflectors or left side if you are facing the bike is the always on low beam right ?
this bloody user manual has had me confused on which side is supposed to be the always on low beam when the bike is stock ….
I mean the larger reflector is what I always thought was the low beam as it is the light that has Always been on when it’s running and if you push the high beam switch the smaller side comes on…. The previous owner didn’t switch the lights around on me right haha


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