[Roninrider]

I have been looking for a project bike to tinker with over the winter months. I have never had a good touring bike so I was looking for something to get ready for my wife and I. Bob's BMW had a 2007 K1200GT being sold as a "Project Bike". I initially when to look at it in the fall when it was for sale at $2,495. The bike had 54,397 miles and needed a clutch. Seller claimed start up sounded louder than it should. I assumed the timing chain issue and the clutch was the culprit. The controls were sunfaded as some other parts and there was damage to the right side faring. I made and offer but they refused me. Knowing I could buy a K1200GT in good shape for $5K I passed on their counter offer. The price kept dropping down to $1,995, $1,795, $1,595 then $1,495. Knowing I could part the bike out for more than $1,495 I decided to buy it for that price. As per the dealer, it had new tires, and the spark plugs were changed at 45,612 miles.

When I got it home I began to disassemble all the parts. Noticing the sun faded parts I wanted to give the previous owner the benefit of the doubt that this bike wasn't left outside in the weather and that it just got fades from some serious on the road touring in any weather. The more I took this bike apart the more I noticed the type of dirt build up on it. The there was just so much decomposing matter stuck to the underside of the faring, tank and impossible to reach areas. I found leaves around the throttle body, etc.
That didn't really bother me, the bike ran and everything seemed to work except the ABS and the front heated seat (which the front heated seat wasn't a heated seat).

So, the goal of this post is to give a run along of how my project fairs out in two main areas: Fun Factor and Cost Factor. For the Cost Factor I will break it down into what was necessary to have the bike restored to fully functional and safe riding bike. The second will be the cost of cosmetic restoration. Item not included in the restoration cost will be any tools or gear not specifically made for this bike or accessories/farkle.

Let my project begin.

 

[Roninrider]

 

[Roninrider]

I ran a diagnostic scan with MotoScan and discovered a few faults, ABS had two faults, but I plan to have the unit rebuilt by Module Master. Of course the fuels strip also. Front ESA adjuster not working. I had previously converted my 2007 R1200GSA to a float from the fuel strip so that is going to happen for this one too. FYI, you would need MotoScan to recode for the float to work.

The tally so far is:
Bike (out the Door tax+Title) $1,733
Clutch $169.43
Clutch Cover Bolts $28.49
Fuel Sensor $130.20
Right Controls (used) $92.42
Left Controls (used) $178.95

Total so far: $2,332.49

 

[Roninrider]

I was expecting the timing chain to be the main culprit to the noise, but upon closer review I see they have the chain guard but old tensioner. Either-way the chain feels tight. The oil pump chain feels loose, but with check more closely after I get the clutch basket removed.

 

[andredl]

Improved clutch slave cylinder. The Pirate sells them. You can thank me later.

 

[Roninrider]

So right from the beginning I had this broken bolt in the wheel carrier to deal with...

Here is an example of the grim that is caked on the insides of the bike. The photos don't do justice as this bike was parked out side for leaves and other natural elements to fall on and decompose over time. The frame looks clean only because it was the easiest to clean.

 

[Capt howdy]

That is some project and probably some expense, ie abs module,fairing restoration but you’ll have a great bike at the end of it. Keep the progress reports coming.

 

[Roninrider]

Regarding some of the faded black plastic parts Armor-All works for some but not others. The tail section needed a new switch as the sun beat all the marking off. I found a tail section with switch on eBay for $27 including S&H. Armor-all revived that one beautifully but didn't do anything for the engine heat guard which was greyed out badly. I tried all the internet tricks including the heat-gun. In the end, I threw the part in the used engine oil pan and let soak for a few days as a last attempt. Below you can see how affective it was. Saved me some money on replacing or paining it so let's call it a win. We will see how it hold up over time. I was also able to find a BMW clutch wrench, lock in and socket for the new clutch build. I also was able to find a used heated driver seat on eBay. I will sell the other non-heated seat and then add to the cost factor.

Right now, I have my car on stands while waiting for wheel bearing parts so it may be a day or two till I get the clutch off and replaced. Also still waiting for my clutch cover bolts to arrive.

 

[Roninrider]

I pulled the clutch out today to see how bad it looked. The below pic shows two friction plates and the basket wear. As you can see the wear is uneven on the friction plates and the worn down one is on the end due to the oil flow hole not being low enough. I did drill a new oil flow hole and filed down those wear spots in the basket. A Barnett Clutch is soaking in oil now and will go in soon. The cam chain seems tight with the jump guards and original tensioner in place. The oil pump chain was very loose , but tightened it up. All I am waiting for are the clutch cover bolts right now. When I get it all back together we will see is she get quiet again. If not, I will get the revised cam chain tensioner.

 

[Capt howdy]

You should definitely get the new cam chain tensioner o rings.

 

[Roninrider]

You should definitely get the new cam chain tensioner o rings.

Well, The previous owner had the plugs changed about 10K mi. ago and there doesn't seem to be any leakage now. The chain seems tight even when I manually turn the crankshaft. I am holding off for now since I believe most of the engine noise was from the clutch being worn and the oil pump chain. If there is any more noise it would only be the cam chain tensioner since the chain guards are in place...in which case I would change the tensioner then. Unless I am missing something.

 

[Roninrider]

This week I got the Barnett Clutch is installed. The oil pump chain tension corrected. Also fixed the broken bolt in the wheel carrier. Upon further review of the inside of the farings, these seems to have been an oil leak at one time. I don't see any oil resedue on the egine which leads me to think that it is not the valve cover or any other seal. Perhaps it was alread repaired but the panels never cleaned. BMW didn't have any record of a valve job done. Only the spark plugs. There are a lot of unknowns about this bike....like why was it sitting for...probably years outside with the weather beating down on it.

I will check for oil leaks after I get the fuel sensor and abs modual fixed.

 

[Roninrider]

FOUND IT!!! There is an oil leak from the left side front of the valve cover...so I will be replacing that as well. Also discovered the steering damper was shot. This week has mostly been cleaning the oil all over the bike and the years of neglect sitting in the weather. The ABS Module was sent to be rebuilt and parts are on order. I replace the left and right controls. All the faring has been removed and cleaned. Wheels removed and cleaned. The brake dust on the rear was so resistant to being removed. A pressure washer wouldn't clean it so I had to get a scotch scrubbing pad with Simple-green cleaner to get back down to the finish. I have never experienced such build up because I never let my bikes get to that point. As I am progressing I haven't seen any major issues with the revival. It is mostly a bit of TLC and just cleaning. I would love to pressure wash some hard to reach spots around the throttle bodies and engine head, but there are too many open orifices (airbus, charcoal canister, vent hoses, etc).

The only hose I need to replace is the clutch hose due to the coating cracking off. This led to needing to buy a vent for the slave, but no worries...I will use it on my K1300S if needed. So what is all this costing me so far....let's add it up. I still need to find a solution for the ESA front strut stepping motor issue.


From the beginning:
Bike (out the Door tax+Title) $1,733
Clutch $169.43
Clutch Cover Bolts $28.49
Fuel Sensor $130.20
Right Controls (used) $92.42
Left Controls (used) $178.95

This week:
Tank gaskets $21.77
ABS Rebuilt $280.52
Steering Damper (used OEM) $48.13
Front Fender Screw. $2.32
Clutch Hose $45.33
Grommets $7.66
Valve Cover Gaskets Outer and Inner $114.75
Gasket, Final Drive Plug $1.88
Spoiler Screw $2.38
Filler Tube (1300GT for float conversion) $88.34


Total so far: $2,945.57

Only known future costs now are:
1. Front Strut (fix stepper motor or replace with a used one)
2. Paint or replace with a used right Faring
3. Paint right luggage cover
4. Recover seats.

 

[Capt howdy]

Great progress. The left hand side of the rocker cover requires sealant on the gasket in two places. It could be leaking because it wasn’t applied.

 

[Mess533]

I've found letting a little degreaser in those hard to reach places you speak of sit for a bit, then blow out with air compressor. Dab a paint brush in the to break up any of the stubborn stuff.

 

[Roninrider]

Decided to pull the final drive off to drain and clean well. Splines look good, but the rear rubber boot is shot. Dammit...$96.33 for a new one. Got to wait till a new one comes in before getting the rear wheel back on. I did install the fresh oil and start up. Bikes purrs nicely!!!! The engine clacking noise and chatter is gone. I also didn't notice any cam-chain clatter. Using Motul 7100 Syn 20W-50. SO I will forego the new cam chain tensioner for now.

As far as letting degreaser sit, I have numerous times. I feel that Gunk Degreaser would work better than the WD 40 and Simple Green I have been using. I little later I will after I get the valve cover gasket replaces.

Time to focus on finding a front ESA strut replacement on eBay.

 

[Meese]

BMW recommends 5w-40 synthetic motor oil, which is supposed to help with the clutch noise and judder.

Many riders use Shell Rotella, and I usually pick up some Castrol Power1 4T when it goes on sale at Amazon.

Also, the final drive requirement is 180ml of Castrol SAF-XO 75w90.

 

[DoctorLukas]

This is great project!
I'm pretty sure it will work out to be a nice bike in the end.
I'm pretty sure ESA is not working as it should like on most of those older bikes. You can test it when you put it back on the wheels.
Water damage and corrosion to the stepper motors is a big thing. Worth checking.

Sent from my SM-G780G using Tapatalk

 

[TF1200RT]

Water damage and corrosion to the stepper motors is a big thing. Worth checking.

Everything rusts in the UK.

 

[Roninrider]

Is it possible to get to the stepping motor to clean/replace without tearing the entire front strut apart? I have changed out springs on other BMW models but not the K1200/1300 yet.