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Is it possible to get to the stepping motor to clean/replace without tearing the entire front strut apart? I have changed out springs on other BMW models but not the K1200/1300 yet.
Yes you can take them off without removing the spring but it will not be the easiest job. Even if they are not corroded rebound needle could be stuck( seized ).
Apply plenty of heat to lose the green loctite.
It would be good to grab the round part in the vice with sof jaws.
 

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2014 K1300S, 2007 K1200GT
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
This week I have been able to put a lot of hours in the project, but the weather has been freezing here....well below freezing...LOL. I finished polishing the headlight, so that takes care of all the lights now.
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I drained, cleaned, lubed and reinstalled the final drive. Waiting for some gaskets to arrive before I can fill it up. The final drive oil was dark but not sludge and it appeared to have the correct level of fluid. I am waiting for the rear boot and a few other parts.
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It is obvious to me now that the bike sat in the side stand in the weather. All the water pooled in certain areas to for rust bolts mostly on the left. It is somewhat a puzzle figuring out what the previous owner was thinking on maintenance and care. The rear brake pads and wear sensor wire was new, but the mounting parts set was rusted up and missing the retaining clip. That prompted me to check the front brakes too...same, but at least they had the clips. Decided to order new brake mounting parts. I pulled off all the calipers and cleaned them up too. Need to clean the rusted bolt.

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I installed the new fuel float and opted to replace the QD fuel fitting on the tank and like to the chromed steel set. The factory ones where about to fail anyway. I had done the same on my R1200GSA when it sprung a leak twice, once under warranty. My friends R1150GS caught fire from the same issue so I have no problem doing that upgrade. The tank in now back on and I am waiting for a new filler tube and two tank gaskets. Next is rewiring the plugs to read the float sensor. I already recoded to read it with Motoscan. I had also previously done this on my R1200GSA. Fuels Strips suck. ;)
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I also removed the radiator. with plans to clean the oil off the head and check the valves while replacing the gasket and fixing the valve cover leak. I tired now. Going to have a drink and go to sleep.
 

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2014 K1300S, 2007 K1200GT
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
As I suspected from the looks of the coolant...The antifreeze wasn't properly diluted.

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I also got he valve cover off and the gasket seemed liked it was sealed properly. Two coils were damaged and I damaged the third trying to take them out. Seems like #1 coil was replaced. These things were so hard to get out.

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You deserve much enjoyment from the bike with all the work you’ve put into it. When you reinstall the coils and SLS use red rubber grease on the mating parts. That will decrease the binding. jumping the gun a bit but will you be vacuum filling the cooling system
 

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Very cool build Ronin, congrats on the great work. I just about a similar build that I did over the winter on a 2006 BMW K1200R. My neighbor has a 07 BMW K1200GT that needs some TLC, I will forward him this thread(y)

Curious on what your plans on repairing the front heated seat?
 

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2014 K1300S, 2007 K1200GT
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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Ok, all. I pulled off thw water pump but didnt split the halfs yet. The seals look good despite the outside of the pump being covered in oil. I discovered the O-ring is missing. The bearing has play! Seems terribly loose to me for a water pump. That gap shows how much play there is. I guess I am rebuilding this one.
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2014 K1300S, 2007 K1200GT
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Well, I am at a standstill on progress till all the parts I ordered have arrived. I discovered a problem with the heated drivers seat connection. Apparently the previous owner changed the plug on the bike's wiring harness for a different seat so the OEM seat doesn't connect. I am trying to identify the correct OEM plug part number, but no luck yet. Any one knows the P/N for the OEM plug?
 

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This is the plug I used on my 2009 K1300GT. Shows as the same plug for both year seats.
83 30 0 402 342
REPAIR PLUG, 2-PIN - NO. 610617​
$20.08

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2014 K1300S, 2007 K1200GT
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
OK, this week, I got the the front strut replaced. I noticed that the used strut I installed had a different spring rate than what was previously installed. The old strut had a spring coil 130-118 and the top retainer position to the lowest position. The replacement strut came with a 130-148 spring coil and the retainer stet to the highest position (see pics).
I was wondering if anyone knew why BMW used two different spring heights 118mm and 148mm for the front struts with the same weight rating of 130kg. I did notice the lower locking ring is lower on the 130-148 setup. In any case, the front ESA is back in operation again.

I took off the spring from original strut and it seems to still be in good working order...except for the stepper motor. I was trying to get to the stepper motor, but can get it apart. I was able to loosen the nut, but nothing else. Can someone send me a pic of what the K1200GT strut specifically looks like disassembled. I am all about learning.

I am still waiting on ordered parts before I can put everything back together, namely gaskets. This should be road worthy again after I get those parts.

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Well the ABS module arrived from ModuleMasters. Nice rebuild with a 5 yr warranty (a little free advertising for them!!!). The reinstall went smoothly. Brakes reinstalled and toques down, Bleeded the brakes according to factory manual and used MotoScan to run the module and clear the fault code. NICE!!!!
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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Yeah, parts arrived!
Rear rubber boot installed and lubed as per BMW manaul. Spline lubed as per manual also. The valve cover gasket and radiator back on. Vacuum applied to fill the coolant system with 50/50 mix of BMW coolant and fired up. Bled both coolant points. She lives again. Ran for a little while then died…I forgot I drained the tank. LOL. I had myself worried for a second. Installed the front heated seat cable. I need to verify the plug is getting power. I had the seat on for a little while while waiting for the coolant to warm up. Tomorrow I will run again and see how the clutch feels and check for any fault codes. Only part I am waiting for is the clutch hose.
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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
So a little informational for those wanting to do the fuel float conversion, it is cheaper than replacing the fuel strip, not counting tools needed. If you already have the Motoscan App and connector here is a bit of information you might want to know. The K1300GT filler tube is only needed for the metal bracket that comes with it. You can't use the whole assembly because the mouth of the tube sits higher than the original. Just switch the metal brackets and install.
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I was able to run the bike around my house only a little since it isn't registered yet. Sprayed engine Gunk cleaner and pressure washed off the engine. Nice and clean so I can see if it develops any leaks later...none as of now.

On another issue, I installed the front heated seat cable and hooked up the front seat...IT DOES'T WORK. Hooked it to the rear connector and still doesn't work. It seems I bought a bad heated seat and now I am past the return date. A miscalculation on my part. Now I will tear the seat apart and see if it can be salvaged or if possible find a replacement element. Engine sounds good, but I think it need some injector cleaner ran through. I am still waiting for the title from DMV. I started this morning cold and didn't experience the loud cam chain clacking as reported by most. I may have got lucky and have a good model.

I am debating on reassembling the faring now and riding around a little first or repainting them now before reassembly. I will probably go with the later depending on the winter weather here, regarding painting.

My clutch cable is still in Germany so I am not doubtful the item will show up anything soon.

Now, time to find a front seat heater element.....
 

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Nice work.

Before you tear apart your seat, try using a meter to measure the resistance of the heating element, then measure the voltage on the bike plug side. Might help you narrow down the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I checked the cables had power while the engine was running. I only get a fault on the front seat when the cable is attached to the front seat. If iI swap out seats to rear I don't get a fault. Also the rear power plug doesn't heat the front seat. I checked the seat also and there doesn't seem to be any resistance from the front seat. I am hoping it is just a broken wire near the plug leads. I will open the seat shortly to see. My new seat covers arrive tomorrow anyway.
 
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