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2008 K1200GT and 2003 R1150R Rockster
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello motorcycle enthusiasts

Lots of words here, first post I thought I would provide some background ;)

I have been riding for 40 years now. I have had the pleasure of owning and riding many motorcycles, I currently own a 2003 R1150R Rockster and I am the happy caretaker of a 2008 K1200GT (NextGen) with 139000kms on the clock.

The rockster is fun for riding around the local backroads here, but usually nothing more than a couple of hours.

The K1200GT on the other hand is fine for a 5 - 7 hour riding day, and I have enjoyed all types of paved roads with it. I have had the pleasure of this bikes company for the last 25000kms or so.

This post is regarding the K44

The bike has always been serviced and kept up to date on ALL recalls etc, and has some nice additions. I added the areoflow larger screen and winglet thingies, and if I want I can set it up so I don't feel any wind at all and the passenger is comfy too. The cruise works great. If I wanted to I could light a smoke at 100kph. I would never do that. (really)

The bike (Bart) has had three owners. The first rode it in all seasons and I have heard stories that lead me to believe for its first 100000kms of life was ridden vigorously. The second owner only put 2000kms on it, but spent wads of cash making sure all the service items were up to date.

I am the third caretaker and I purchased that right for what i considered an excellent price.

I am in Canada on Vancouver Island BC, the bike was originally purchased in Victoria BC just down the road from me.

I was able to visit the local dealer where the bike was originally sold and they were good enough to share its service history without compromising anyone's privacy.

The last service entries contained the warning that the ball joints would need replacing soon. I was aware of this from the second owner before purchase and was one reason the bike was priced as it was. So I was prepared. I did hours of research and decided that I would be able to do the job myself. I much prefer to do all my own work if I can. However, the job required no small amount of preparation on my part. I needed the space to do it, a proper lift as well as the motor stand (Engine Adapter K4x PN 83300401347) and several specialized tools. So I started saving the $$ and bought a house with a garage and got the lift and now I am gathering the bits an pieces. As for the ball joints, before purchasing the bike I checked them and there was the faintest notion of movement, but no road symptoms yet. I checked them every 5000kms after that, and around abouts 20000kms into my relationship with the bike I started to notice the low speed symptoms and now the play at the front wheel was very noticeable. So it was time.

I have the lift, the RepROM most of the tools and a clear understanding of the job at hand. I am acquiring the engine stand and looking at acquiring the large deep sockets as well as the cutout socket and allen wrenches (BMW Socket Wrench PN 83300401963)

I havent quite decided but I may also remove front and rear ESA units and have them rebuilt (shipped to Ontario - Home - Accelerated Technologies they have the knowledge and experience and are able to fully rebuild the ESA units back to or better than spec.) Yes I could replace with some fine units, but I for one very much enjoy the convenience of the ESA, and the current units work exactly as they are supposed to. In fact there are no issues with this bike at all with the exception of the front ball joints. It has a very noisy rumbling clutch when it is sitting in neutral, but my research so far indicates this is not considered a problem. In short I would only ever replace this machine with a 2011 K1300GT. The bike fits me perfectly (after adding half an inch to the sole of my boots LoL) and it does everything I enjoy from a sport touring hwy bike.

So it gets the full attention now, while its on the lift and I am doing the ball joints every other service item will be checked and performed.

My questions for the forums are:

Is there a technical writeup/sticky on this site by someone who has done the ball joint replacement? I have searched - and will continue searching, but so far I have only seen snips of tech across many different threads.

Does anyone have the construction dimensions for the Engine Adapter K4x PN 83300401347 ? I remember finding them a couple years ago, but have misplaced them. Although... the part is available from Germany at $400CAD - and is an excellent addition to my tools for this bike, so if i cant have one made, I'll get the OEM one :)

Has anyone used a DIY tool and been able to properly/successfully torque to 130Nm / 95.9 ft lbs the M14 x 1.5 ball joint nut to leading link (Top/Bottom) It looks like the BMW Socket Wrench PN 83300401963 is about 100CAD, but availability is questionable...

Well thats about it for now, the preparation continues.

I doubt I will make a big comprehensive how-to, but I will certainly update this post with progress and note anything interesting or unusual. Cheers!

Many thanks to all those who contribute, and rubber side down for everyone!
 

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2008 K1200GT and 2003 R1150R Rockster
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you very much for your responses QuelleCrise? Reeeeeally appreciate it !!

I did see that youtube vid, and it was somewhat helpful, but a few things that happened in that vid made me think I should try and find a better one... the fella seemed to slightly damage the wheel carrier in the vice LoL.

This fella did a much nicer job imho :)
BMW K1300 ball joint removal - YouTube

I'll keep searching for the elusive engine support specs

cheers!
 

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Thank you very much for your responses QuelleCrise? Reeeeeally appreciate it !!

I did see that youtube vid, and it was somewhat helpful, but a few things that happened in that vid made me think I should try and find a better one... the fella seemed to slightly damage the wheel carrier in the vice LoL.

This fella did a much nicer job imho :)
BMW K1300 ball joint removal - YouTube

I'll keep searching for the elusive engine support specs

cheers!
Hell yes a what not to do with clever use of socket adapters.
If I was doing this I would build a box and make and set the fork into a rubber mould material.
Imagine a framed plywood box. No vise no damage as your widely spreading the load.
Affix box with any of a number of options.
And heat the fork where the part threads in. Boiling water is a hazard but not to the parts.
 

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2008 K1200GT and 2003 R1150R Rockster
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
AWESOME !!

that is fantabulous !

I'll start checking with local shops and see if anyone wants to give it a go.

Really appreciate the info so far, looking forward to tearing into this :)

Cheers!
 

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K1300GT SE / GSX1400 / LRD4
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I made my own engine support from drawings supplied by Mattis on here that Captn has just posted. I used a std external hex to set the torque on the top and bottom pivot points, marked and then an m30 socket over the top to get

I like the way he gets the ball joint nut off,those impact drivers are awesome. Not sure what he head the fork assembly with though.

I reckon I'm up for new ball joints soon as well...
 

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Just a note, there is a small error in the drawing that i picked up.The front pillars that show the 10mm dia hole at 95mm from the base with an overall height of 100mm is in the wrong spot. If you put the hole at 95mm, the radius of that hole at 5mm means the top of the hole is the same as the overall height. Either the hole has to be at 90mm, or the overall height is 105mm. Hole size at 10mm is correct to suit thr bolt for the engine. I kept the 95mm from the base and the pillar became 105mm total.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cheers thanks for the correction, GTK.

I took the drawings to a local fabricator and the quote was about 4 hours, or about $450 CAD. The part is $400 CAD all in from BMW, so I am going to order it from them. 3 weeks delivery expected. That gives me time to acquire all the parts required :)

For those that have ready access to the required supplies and tools, I'm sure it could be made for a fraction of the 400, but I am not setup to build it.

I'm aware I could MacGyver a rig, but the convenience and safety of having the engine stand for this and future service makes it worth it for me.

Thanks for providing the drawings and correction tho, much appreciated !!!

Cheers!!
 

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two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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I have done this job several times (more than 6) you do not need an engine stand, a scissor jack and a piece of wood will work just fine as far forward on the bottom of the engine as reasonable. All plastic comes off both sides, You may need some long reach torx tools. There is a 7mm hex hole in the tops of the ball joints. It is not strong enough for the listed torque on the nut you will install holding this allen. Stop about 15% before list torque. The same sort of thing with the nuts on the ball joints they are very high values and really tight will work. Also near the listed torque though. You need a really good way to hold the carrier to resist these torques. There are posts if you do a search on this job. One fellow even says he does it with out removing the fork. Here is a source for ball joints 1/3 the cost from bmw:
I keep a couple sets of these on hand. I get about 35K miles out of a pair and always change in a set. Do the "advanced search " in the upper right three dot menu for more on ball joints. The tools are also available from the german source of the ball joints. I made sockets which are awkward but work. I used a huge vice to hold the fork with some wood blocks. Pay attention to the BMW instructions for all the bolts holding the wheel carrier. A couple get anti seize on the sides of their heads.
 

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Don't know. That has happened twice, When you place the scissor jack under the bike it is the headers it lifts not the engine case, I miss spoke. One set of ball joints I bought from a common aftermarket source and they were not very good. Wunderlich who really do have good stuff. Though I ordered front wheel bearings from them and they were the wrong item and never returned my emails pointing this out.
 

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Don't know. That has happened twice, When you place the scissor jack under the bike it is the headers it lifts not the engine case, I miss spoke. One set of ball joints I bought from a common aftermarket source and they were not very good. Wunderlich who really do have good stuff. Though I ordered front wheel bearings from them and they were the wrong item and never returned my emails pointing this out.
As to wunderlich. Contact the mothership in Germany. I had to order a bike stand via Europe because the Canadian distributor never responded. I think they and other distros are just resellers with no real concern about Wunderlich and its reputation. The guys in Europe are the real deal.
 

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K1300GT SE / GSX1400 / LRD4
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You had no issues lifting the bike from the headers? I thought about doing that but I was worried I would bend the headers. II was thinking a block of wood across all and pick up in the middle.

35000miles from a ball joint is not too bad considering the range of motions and available surface area it has to work with.
 

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No problems with lifting via headers. I have a short piece of wood and on top a 10mm piece of firm closed cell foam pad. I was a bit shocked by the 35k mile thing but a learning experience. My main symptom at first is the classic wondering at 30 miles per hour. Feels like an old school bike with the head bearings too tight.
 

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No problems with lifting via headers. I have a short piece of wood and on top a 10mm piece of firm closed cell foam pad. I was a bit shocked by the 35k mile thing but a learning experience. My main symptom at first is the classic wondering at 30 miles per hour. Feels like an old school bike with the head bearings too tight.
Lack of lube? Inconsistent manufacture of part? Expansion joint hammering? Limited movement notching in a wear pattern?
I remember my first vehicle went 420000 kms without failure of a suspension link. I greased it religiously but otherwise drove it hard. The oem joints do not look small and are apparently made by TRW which didn't make crap 40 years ago.
Just try and find a cross listing or even tech specs.
 

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Cool. Will try the header + timber lift. TRW products are great, never had an issue. I had a clunk in the front end, think it was the wheel bearings. No signs of torn boots or any looseness in the front suspension, rebuilt shock about 2500km ago.
 
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