[Beech]

While riding at about 25/30 mph, the bike seems to wander and the steering is stiff. Just like the old days when you tightened the steering head bearings too tight. I have found that when it gets to this stage (can get worse like not holding the line in a corner) you can not feel the front wheel carrier loose when you have the bike up on the lift wheel off the ground.

 

[tarnrevick]

first let me say I am NOT a certified mechanic. I am just a guy who works on my own machines. So any advice given is just me guessing. All information i provide should be verified. I am not responsible for anything that happens unless it is in my garage and I am the one doing the thing. Ok disclaimer out of the way LoL

If any of this is wrong, then those more knowledgeable please say so.

There are a number of tests that can be done, and some symptoms.

The most reported symptom is low speed wandering. It feels a bit like the bike is drunk.

In more serious cases, you may notice a subtle wandering at higher speeds right inside the corner. It will scare the poop out of you.

There are other things that can cause these symptoms, and if you are experiencing any odd steering symptoms be sure to diagnose and resolve or you might not make it through that next corner. Tires, bearings, alignment are just a few other things that come to mind.

As for testing the ball joints, it should be performed on level solid ground, and yes, the aim is to get the front wheel off the ground. At the BMW dealer they may expose both ball joints or do other things to test the ball joints, but really the main test is forward to back motion of the front wheel carrier (not the wheel) I have seen my mechanic use a prybar to test for play in ball joints. But he knows what the heck he is doing.

The way I used to test involves 3 humans or 2 humans and safely securing the back wheel to the ground - 2008 K12GT next gen....

Bike on centerstand. Make sure the bike will not fall or move.
1 human push down on rear to put the rear wheel on the ground (or safely secure the rear wheel to the ground)
The front wheel will now be off the ground
Have the other human:
Making sure the front wheel is not turned left or right
from directly in front of the front wheel, grab the wheel carrier at the front wheel axle. So do not grab the wheel, but the wheel carrier.
Now you put your hand(s) on the lower ball joint
Then they try to move the wheel carrier front to back - so NOT side to side -
If there is ANY front to back play in the wheel carrier, suspect one or both ball joints. There should be ZERO play/movement front to back.

Since I now have my bike lift and engine stand I no longer need the third human. On my machine, there is noticeable movement front to back. And if i have someone else move the wheel carrier front to back while I have my hand on the ball joint, the movement at the ball joint is very obvious and absolutely NOT acceptable.

Ok no ball joint in hand comments are needed here LoL

I am sure others will have more and or better information. The point here is, if you are having any unusual steering or tracking issues, be sure to diagnose and resolve. And yes, it could be ball joint(s)

Also, there are a ton of articles and discussions in this forum and many others on front wheel carrier ball joint symptoms and diagnosis. You can search for ball joints or low speed wandering etc.

 

[tarnrevick]

While riding at about 25/30 mph, the bike seems to wander and the steering is stiff. Just like the old days when you tightened the steering head bearings too tight. I have found that when it gets to this stage (can get worse like not holding the line in a corner) you can not feel the front wheel carrier loose when you have the bike up on the lift wheel off the ground.

That is a fairly accurate description of the symptoms of worn ball joints, but it could still be other things... And as for not feeling the wheel carrier move, that is why I momentarily voluntold another human to move the wheel carrier while I had my hand on the ball joint(s). The human moving the wheel carrier could not feel anything unusual, but with my hand on the ball joint i could feel the ball moving in a bad way inside the socket. The prybar method is tried and true, but you have to know exactly where to place the prybar and how to lever it. Caution, this method could damage stuff if you do it wrong

 

[Beech]

I have found on my K bikes the ball joints last between 35 and 50K miles. Next time I suspect them, I'll put the bike up on center stand, lift plate under the headers, remove the front wheel replacing the axle and thus unload the front wheel carrier. I'll slip a hand onto the ball joints and give the axle a lift. Should do the job.
That said a new set of ball joints is a wonderful thing. I buy mine from a shop in Germany for about 150$ a pair.
Frame and Suspension - Page 2 BMW K ABS 61231
I have two sets on hand. Money in the bank. There is a UK shop that sells them too. They have the 50 & 55mm wrenches (cheap) to help with the job too.

 

[tarnrevick]

An update to my original post...

I prepared my shop area to make space for all the body panels so they can stay safe during the work LoL

I received the K44 engine stand from BMW and made modifications to my lift, scissor jack and engine stand. The bike is now securely on the lift and is exceedingly stable. The scissor jack is bolted to the lift deck, the engine stand is bolted to the scissor jack and the engine stand is bolted to the motorcycle. Plus tie-downs as an added safety. Yes an earthquake might knock it off, but I have insurance for that LoL.

Because I started this thread, I feel a small amount of responsibility just to note this: I would not and have never raised any vehicle using any part of the exhaust system. I have always been very sure that whatever method, devices and tools I use to raise a vehicle will not fail and or damage the vehicle in any way...

I have acquired deep impact 50mm and 55mm sockets, but I also might get the ring wrenches or whatever they are called as they might be better for torqueing the new ball joints down. I also have the cutaway sockets for torqueing down the ball joint nuts and the leading link

Getting the ball joints out... One human mentioned they used a BBQ to 'heat soak' the wheel carrier to 120c. Others have mentioned using hot water. In my chatting with the BMW techs, they dont mention using heat on the ball joints, but do on the leading link bolts which have the weirdo thread locker that needs to hit 100c before it will let go. I will do more investigation on this.... Anybody have any insight or experience, please chime in

I have received all the parts I require for the service work I am going to do with the exception of the ball joints. Here in canada, there are only a few options... BMW OEM from the local dealer, Wunderlich or OEM out of the US, and several sites in Europe. The BMW OEM are $375CAD each. So far, when I include shipping rates and times, as well as the currency conversions, I might save $150CAD on the $750CAD for both so I will most likely go BMW OEM from my local dealer. I save a buck whenever possible, but on some items it just isnt worth the time, trouble or risk for me.

However, I was able to find a site in Canada to buy replacement NGK-KR9CI (7795) plugs for 12 bucks CAD each!!! and free shipping!!! I had to spend over 50 bucks for the free shipping, so I just bought two sets. $103.60CAD all in for 8 plugs to my door. clubplug.ca That should do me for another 80,000kms LoL

I am doing a final drive service as well so got all the right fluids and greases, and a new boot between FD and swingarm. New plugs and valve check will be performed so I bought the gaskets and orings I need for that including the oring for the water pump just in case. And I purchased a coolant vacuum kit from offshore, it should do the job for refilling the coolant system. There has never been a single drip from this machine and there won't be when I'm done my service either. Cant stand machines that leak unless they are a steam train from the 1890s.

I am also replacing the TPMS in my rear wheel and was able to find the updated replacement Schrader 3141M BMW OEM Motorcycle Tire Pressure Monitoring Sensor (185498096779) from ebay/maxmoto2003 out of Latvia for $100CAD. And I managed to also find the Schrader 90 degree valve stem compatible with this TPMS, so hopefully it works and I will finally have a 90 elbow that doesnt leak for the rear

Well, by the time of my next update I hope to have all the work completed. Prolly take me a solid couple months cause I work slow, only evenings and weekends, and I thoroughly clean every single thing I touch, plus I have a few other things I am doing while the bike is on the lift...

Thankfully I have the rockster to enjoy the nice riding weather when it hits...

cheers!!!