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ethanol that's dangerous rubbish - rots plastic, rubber, and eats metal - its ONLY added as its a budget way to wind up octane on the cheap budget rubbish
real proper fuel with decent additives doesn't use that junk to wind up octane - it - as you pay for it - adds quality extras to give something worth setting fire too

if you read the owners manual "use high octane fuel (99 in europe) or expect reduced performance and economy"
 

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2012 BMW K1300S (also 1993 BMW R1100RS and 1974 BMW R60/6)
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THANKS FOR THIS TIP!! Definitely an issue with my 2012 K13S.

<snip>

4) There's an auxiliary wiring harness that puts more copper between the battery positive and starter relay, then to starter, the better to carry the amp load of starting. The purpose of this mod is to address the no-hot-restart condition, where after you've stalled, the bike won't crank, as if you battery is dead. You can make this mod yourself rather than buying from a dealer, there's a thread here somewhere that details it. You'll need handy skills and will have to strip the tupperware. Be sure to mark which screws go where.

<snip>
 

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Folks -

I can get ethanol free gas (91 octane, and 93 if I hunt for it) readily here in Oklahoma. On a trip to South Carolina last summer with my '09 K1300GT I had to use ethanol blended 91 octane. There is a real difference between 91+ ethanol and 91/93 with no ethanol both in acceleration (based on the seat of my pants) and gas mileage (3-4 mpg more without ethanol at average speeds between 45-85). I almost ran out of gas getting through Missouri on my way home, waiting to get to OK where I knew I could find ethanol-free gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
All very interesting information on ethanol, thanks for sharing everybody. Now I have to find out who's got the highest octane fuel without using it here in my neck of the woods. Cheers everyone.
 

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My K13GT did the stalling thing the first summer I had it (2018) and never since. It happened only in hot weather when coming down from high speed riding with the throttle shut right off; when opening up again it would briefly just die.

I never found why it went away but I do use Esso Premium fuel, which is 99 octane (on the UK's scale) and apparently has no Ethanol at all in it (it's marked E5 so could have up to 5% but Esso just don't put it in) and also twice the standard amount of detergent. The bike hadn't been ridden much for several years before I got it (at 14,800 miles) so maybe my regular, fairly hard riding and use of ethanol-free, high detergent fuel un-gummed something.

I think I read somewhere that this problem was due to some sort of fuel breather getting blocked but as mine sorted itself out I never looked into it. It's really well calibrated now - on the lean side as they are designed to be, so sure I'll get a little more power when I fit a PCV but I want to save the planet so am happy for now (and I guess should try to switch to 10% ethanol fuel at some point)
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
My K13GT did the stalling thing the first summer I had it (2018) and never since. It happened only in hot weather when coming down from high speed riding with the throttle shut right off; when opening up again it would briefly just die.

I never found why it went away but I do use Esso Premium fuel, which is 99 octane (on the UK's scale) and apparently has no Ethanol at all in it (it's marked E5 so could have up to 5% but Esso just don't put it in) and also twice the standard amount of detergent. The bike hadn't been ridden much for several years before I got it (at 14,800 miles) so maybe my regular, fairly hard riding and use of ethanol-free, high detergent fuel un-gummed something.

I think I read somewhere that this problem was due to some sort of fuel breather getting blocked but as mine sorted itself out I never looked into it. It's really well calibrated now - on the lean side as they are designed to be, so sure I'll get a little more power when I fit a PCV but I want to save the planet so am happy for now (and I guess should try to switch to 10% ethanol fuel at some point)
That's interesting Duncan. It would seem that your regular use of the high octane fuel has saved you the annoyance that I'm experiencing (and many others too). Thanks for your input! Cheers
 

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That's interesting Duncan. It would seem that your regular use of the high octane fuel has saved you the annoyance that I'm experiencing (and many others too). Thanks for your input! Cheers
Cheers
Postscript: I realised that the "some sort of fuel breather" that I'd heard of as a possible cause was the "charcoal canister from the evaporative control system" that Honolulu refers to. Might be worth checking/removing that.

I did the shims this year (and changed the exhaust camshaft for a K1200GT (244 degree duration instead of 256) one) so should really have checked out all that stuff while I had the airbox and pipework off but it all looked physically good and is working so went with "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I'll be fitting a K1300S airbox soon (to get the twin snorkels and filters and extra capacity which account for most of the 17bhp extra) so may have a look then (though there's a lot of work to do to fit the left hand snorkel/filter - need to lower the ABS pump and cruise control servo as they're right in the way)
 

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I hope I did not leave the impression I was promoting the use of fuel with ethanol. You should see all the black stuff that drains out of the fuel filter on my old Ford Bronco. I do think the non-ethanol fuel I was getting at the more remote stations could have been a bit old and this may have been part of the problem. I only started using the Chevron with 10% ethanol as this is the next best alternative and is readily available the places I go. And though it may be damaging to some of my rubber seals what am I to do? Not an engineer or a chemist but I do know my old K1200s runs much better and does not suddenly die on the Chevron only plan. If I had good sources for Shell fuel in the places I go I may have added that to my fuel test. But if I get good results from using Chevron I will stick with it.

About the Booster Plug. I thought about it for a long time and read and re-read what it does. The instructions say it sends a modified ambient temperature reading to the ECU to make it run richer at idle. But I also thought that when the oxygen sensor in the exhaust sees the richer signal it will compensate for the change and lean it out again, thereby undoing what you are trying to do. As I said not an engineer or a chemist but I ride the same routes over and over and did many configuration tests with and without the Booster Plug and I could detect no difference. Big difference with and without the Remus aftermarket can but I should revisit this. Just passed 72,000 on the odometer so I must be doing something right.
 

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UK Mkt

Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99 petrol has more cleaning power than our regular petrol - Although our pumps have E5 labels on them, our Synergy Supreme+ 99 is actually ethanol free (except, due to technical supply reasons, in Devon, Cornwall, North Wales, North England and Scotland). Legislation requires us to place these E5 labels on pumps that dispense unleaded petrol with ‘up to 5% ethanol’, including those that contain no ethanol, which is why we display them on our Synergy Supreme+ 99 pumps.

There’s currently no requirement for renewable fuel, like ethanol, to be present in super unleaded petrol although this could change in the future, in which case we would comply with any new legislation.

weird beard science bit Microbially influenced corrosion communities associated with fuel-grade ethanol environments

Fungal and bacterial organic acid production has been associated with fuel degradation and corrosion of carbon steel, stainless steel, aluminum, and other materials that are used for fuel storage and transportation infrastructure
 

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booster plugs don't work - the system can adapt back out of the advantage it first brings - get the AF-XiED does the job properly - and doesn't get messed up by the bike trying to fix what you just broke with a booster plug.
Amen to that the AF-Xied makes a K bike run like it should.
 

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booster plugs don't work - the system can adapt back out of the advantage it first brings - get the AF-XiED does the job properly - and doesn't get messed up by the bike trying to fix what you just broke with a booster plug.
This is a distressing thing to read as the BoosterPlug I just ordered is now sitting on my workbench awaiting installation, which I intended to do next week.

@Beech IIRC you installed one fairly recently, have you had any problems with your BoosterPlug?

I also wonder if I already have one (and if I do, I can verify it doesn't work). In 2014 at 15k miles the original dealer, in attempting (and failing) to solve the stalling problem, "installed fuel enrichener (a code plug)" with no other information on the service report.
 

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I wish people better understood modern vehicles... these bikes have knock sensors and a relatively clever engine management system - this sits and measures continuously the tiny nasty engine damaging shockwaves of detonating petrol (aka explosions - rather than the controlled extremely rapid burning all engines need) if it notcies them it winds back the ignition and probably enrichens it to cool and calm down the mess... by doing this is can keep teasing the tune to the raged edge...

Thus when u put junk fuel in it runs badly and has to wind back to joke mode - when you put in the good fuel it was designed to operate with it will behave and perform better - if it stalls and you are on std octane you deserve the shit it brings

the later fractionally improved map came out, I thought in 2012 so you should have it... so if it runs lumpy, slow or stalls
don't ever ask anyone why if its not been serviced yet....
get it full of high quality super unleaded fuel
make sure and or get the later map
get its adaptions reset (which the lazy dealer won't bother to do - but should be std part of the electronics update - takes seconds - but then you should ride sensibly for a few trips covering at least 150 miles for it to re-adapt gently)
that will get it to run OK, if you want it to run well, buy the AF-iXED gadget that will tweak you past the pathetic, wobbly balance, stuttering mess the law demands - to safe, controllable, fast and fun
 

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2009 K1300S, 2017 S1000R & 2021 Vespa Primavera clown paint job
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I have two K1300S bikes, one with the booster plug that helped eliminate stalling issues and throttle transition smoothness installed years back when they were $50, the other runs well but it is only a month old to me. If needed I'll try the af-ixed. A quart of Toluene in a tank load of gas will boost the octane by a point or so. I'm lucky, in my neighborhood I can buy ethanol free fuel. You guys in other parts of the country that can get 94 octane ethanol free, zowiee, makes my bike hop and jump when I run it.
 
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I use the best "top tier" premium fuel available, although there's a question of what that means in some places. 93 octane with ethanol is common just about everywhere in the US, and I'd prefer to run non-ethanol which I can get in a few places here in Michigan, but it's rarely available anywhere at better than 90 octane.

Ethanol-free was plentiful in Colorado during the 2021 season, but was always lower octane than adulterated premium, and definitely didn't cure the stalling problem.

In 2019 in Arizona I filled a tank with 108 octane racing gas (which coming from a pail, not from a pump, at ~$15/gallon was both expensive and inconvenient) and I will say the bike ran extremely well on that fill-up and with no stalling for quite some time afterwards.
 

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In 2019 in Arizona I filled a tank with 108 octane racing gas (which coming from a pail, not from a pump, at ~$15/gallon was both expensive and inconvenient) and I will say the bike ran extremely well on that fill-up and with no stalling for quite some time afterwards.
I used some of this once for a mix with 93 octane Chevron. $76 a can.

Tin Aluminum can Automotive tire Tin can Fluid
 
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