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2010 K1300R snapped suspension arm.

783 Views 44 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  BerettaRacer
So, I’m currently waiting to be recovered from the roadside.
My lower arm on the suspension dog bones has snapped.
thankfully i was only doing 30mph at the time so when it snapped and the suspension collapsed it just crushed my rear hugger and skidded the bike to a halt.
no crash, no injury.

looking at used parts online would a K1200R part be the same replacement?
Or do i have to use a K1300, and any difference between R or S I’m assuming they are the same?
A link to a new one (in UK) would be a great help.
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Just neglected to buy replacement dust shield/covers.
any ideas for fast immediate delivery if those in the UK?
will need 4
You have a problem there. A suspension shop should be able to supply parts. A large job to remove. The factory says it can come out the bottom. looks like you have it out already. good job.
Got the bearings out ok.
tappy tappy with a hammer and suitable diameter drift.
Pricy bits at least for the s. You might get a better cheaper bearing from a bearing shop.
Two grease nipples would have made this easy to prevent
Got the bearings out ok.
tappy tappy with a hammer and suitable diameter drift.
Is the bore hammered out of round? The bearing shell suggests it is.
Bearing shell looks to have corroded and been compressed along with bearings inside and that was then seized.
the bore appears to be round still. So maybe ok??
Lawtome,
From the looks of these parts, I think it's safe to say that the failed dogbone was not BMW's fault at all. Lack of maintenance appears to be the root cause. You can take the analysis deeper by asking why the lack of maintenance, e.g., previous owner, no maintenance schedule, dog ate the schedule, didn't know any better, too lazy, etc. And then focus your corrective action to eliminate that cause, say, shoot the dog :oops:. Once you get it all straightened out, just ensure that you put this bike on a good maintenance regime, and stick to it, so history doesn't repeat itself.
That's a lesson to us all I would say, I am glad I have just done mine whilst I was waiting for the rear drive unit to be rebuilt, doesn't take long at all, in the end I haven't got marine grease I used a smear of cv joint grease.
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That's a lesson to us all I would say, I am glad I have just done mine whilst I was waiting for the rear drive unit to be rebuilt, doesn't take long at all, in the end I haven't got marine grease I used a smear of cv joint grease.
Can it be done wheel on?
Not really, If you don't have a center stand you will need some sort of scissor jack and some tie downs for stability. But A OEM center stand is so handy it is worth the hassle to buy and install. You could remove the seat and use some sort of overhead set up. But this job needs to be done on all bikes if you don't remember it being done. And then every 3 years or so. BMW said every two years in the original recall. In places where corrosion is common, like the UK, I'd go with every two years for sure. There are so many little maintenance jobs that are not in the BMW schedule. That is where either a very good dealer or a good aftermarket shop helps if you do not do your own work. Then there is this forum with plenty of advice of course.
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After reading this I looked at the print out of the previous maint/recalls done before I got the bike.

Closest thing I could find was dated 2011, :
Defect code 0000333900 SIB 33 004 10 (057)
Replacing Relay lever on Rear Spring Strut

That was about 20K miles ago.

Would this show that I have the newer, beefier dog bone??
And that now I just have to service the bearings??

Also, is there a "kit" that has all the bearings/bushings/seals needed, or do I have to buy the parts individually?
I ask this because my "wonderful" local BMW dealer says they will no longer work on my bike (to old) so I have to get bike serviced by on independent shop, so I need to provide all parts in advance.

Thx
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Yes you have the new link. No there is not kit. Go to MAX parts and order individually. I say this because your shop won't help you so buy via mail. The last year of production of this bike was 2016. So it is only 7 years back. Same bike as yours. I would post his name , we could use a thread that is a list of shame, dealers that use this too old crap.
All you need to do is expose the bearings via remove the link and wipe them clean, finger in some new grease. Either wheel bearing grease or better yet, (same aisle as wheel grease get a small tub of marine grease).

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Yes you have the new link. No there is not kit. Go to MAX parts and order individually. I say this because your shop won't help you so buy via mail. The last year of production of this bike was 2016. So it is only 7 years back. Same bike as yours. I would post his name , we could use a thread that is a list of shame, dealers that use this too old crap.
All you need to do is expose the bearings via remove the link and wipe them clean, finger in some new grease. Either wheel bearing grease or better yet, (same isle as wheel grease get a small tub of marine grease).
I often wonder if BMW knows about this ridiculous brand damaging practice?
Yes name and shame the douchebags.
Yes you have the new link. No there is not kit. Go to MAX parts and order individually. I say this because your shop won't help you so buy via mail. The last year of production of this bike was 2016. So it is only 7 years back. Same bike as yours. I would post his name , we could use a thread that is a list of shame, dealers that use this too old crap.
All you need to do is expose the bearings via remove the link and wipe them clean, finger in some new grease. Either wheel bearing grease or better yet, (same aisle as wheel grease get a small tub of marine grease).
Thx for the info.

I don't have a center stand or wheel jacks, so my only real option is to take to an independent service shop.
Big question is, do I spring for new bearings, bushing and seals first, and just have them change out regardless of condition, or have them tear down to inspect/grease hoping they are in good condition.
Second question is, I notice on Max BMW parts breakdown, that the bottom of the spring/shock uses the same bearing, bushing, seal combo. Should I also order a set of these, (3 sets in total) and just replace everything while they're in there.
More than likely I will have to trailer the bike to the shop, about a hour away, each way, so a total of 4 trips.

Just talked to Max BMW on phone.
Bearings are a week to ten days out.
Bushings and seals are Germany only, 4 to 6 weeks out.
.
Thx for the info.

I don't have a center stand or wheel jacks, so my only real option is to take to an independent service shop.
I think you have it backwards. For what a shop charges, you could buy a set of paddock stands and they'll pay for themselves in no time. So that's your real option. Going to a shop is a last resort.
Thx for the info.

I don't have a center stand or wheel jacks, so my only real option is to take to an independent service shop.
Big question is, do I spring for new bearings, bushing and seals first, and just have them change out regardless of condition, or have them tear down to inspect/grease hoping they are in good condition.
Second question is, I notice on Max BMW parts breakdown, that the bottom of the spring/shock uses the same bearing, bushing, seal combo. Should I also order a set of these, (3 sets in total) and just replace everything while they're in there.
More than likely I will have to trailer the bike to the shop, about a hour away, each way, so a total of 4 trips.

Just talked to Max BMW on phone.
Bearings are a week to ten days out.
Bushings and seals are Germany only, 4 to 6 weeks out.
.
I looked at the dimensions on these parts they dont look to be some bespoke size to screw owners out of a cheaper option.
If you have an industrial park nearby with a bearing place call em with the parameters and see if they have anything on the shelf.
There are 4 bearings and 8 seals. I'd just go with they are only in need of fresh grease. This is another good case for center stand. OEM is the only good one. But a scissor jack or platform jack will work. The stand for this bike uses the hollow rear axle as a point to insert the track lift jack. This will not work when you try to disconnect the rear shock. Hanging from the over head is a possibility on a couple of 2/4's making a lift point. There are threads discussing various holding systems for the bike and rear wheel removal (shock removal ).
Within this site, under "Community", there is a "Dealer Experiences" section. That would be a perfect place to identify the dealer and how you were treated. Just be sure to be specific and accurate.
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This is another good case for center stand. OEM is the only good one.
I’ve had nothing but good experiences (5 years) with mine from SW-Motech.
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WPV has a plan. I'll start a poll tomorrow there. As he says, honest accuracy will be the key.
Within this site, under "Community", there is a "Dealer Experiences" section. That would be a perfect place to identify the dealer and how you were treated. Just be sure to be specific and accurate.
Yes, it's already posted there, from January, about 5-6 posts down.
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