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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, new here. Picked up a '91 K100 RS a couple of weeks ago, 81,000 miles. Trying to rectify a balky ignition switch. Ordered a new one (be here in about a week), can't get the old one out. Clymer manual is useless. Old one was duct taped together, would cut out when hitting a bump. Tried prying it out from the bottom, now have a collection of little plastic and copper pieces. Some plastic still up in the hole. There is mention of a brass screw on another site I searched, all I see is what looks like what could be the remains of a broken off screw on the right side. Anyone know how the cylinder part comes out?
Thanks.
 

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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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lukeman said:
I used this guide which deals with cleaning but should serve you as well.

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/clean-ignition-switch.shtml

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/ign-switch-disassemble.shtml

It comes out without too much trouble you have to use two small flatheads on either side to press in the clips and it pulls right out.
Those are for a 2 valve K and do not apply. A 91 K100RS4V has the ignition built into the upper fork tree. There are two bolts that hold the ignition switch in. On some bikes they are "security" bolts that need to be drilled out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, that makes sense. I guess they can be replaced with regular stainless nuts and bolts. I saw those things in there, wasn't sure enough to drill them out.
 

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Ahh, good call duck. Yeah it was way too easy to pop out the ignition for my liking...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Success! Thanks for the instruction! Couple of tips for anyone else-

Make sure the security screws are drilled absolutely dead center. Start with a tiny pilot hole.

The switch is off-center to the right, turn the bars full right to clear the fairing bracket.

Remove the top right bolt that holds the front fairing bracket to the frame head. If not, the bolt head will not allow the switch to pass.

Now just a matter of whether or not the replacement shows up in time for an upcoming road trip.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Studied the assembly last night, discovered the ignition lock has a built in fork lock. If the key is turned left past the off position, a cylinder moves out and engages a hole in the frame head. Mine, however, won't turn at all. Had the cylinder out and completely apart, cleaned, lubed, lock still only goes to off or on.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks for the reply. I had the lock assembly out and in my hand, the key only has two positions. Completely dissassembled, cleaned and lubed it. Didn't see anything broken. The key cylinder can only be removed with the key in the "ignition on" position, can only be reassembled with key towards the steering lock position. After turning to "off" or "on", absolutely will not turn back to steering lock. I'm sure its either a fault with the key cylinder itself, or the key is too short to engage the last pin (the one that holds the cylinder in the body of the assembly). Even if I am able to repair it, will probably never use it. Hate for the thing to fail in the locked position.

EDIT: Had the local BMW tech look at my lock. The key is worn down so that the pins (little flat blades, actually) don't go down flush with the cylinder. Not a problem where the barrel is worn to match, between "off" and "on", but the seldom used fork lock position groove is sharp-edged, and would catch. Filed down the pins flush, all is good.
 
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