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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All - "new beer"

Been searching for a K100RS 16V or a K1100RS of slightly older vintage for a few years now but really struggled to find one in the right condition and price (they seem to be at extreme ends - perfect and a lot of cash or just ratty and a potential money pit to get up to a decent std)

Then a K1200RS cropped up in my sights at just above my budget - but it was miles and miles away so I spoke to the seller he described the bike in detail (warts and all) so he seemed a really genuine guy who wanted the bike to go to a decent home.

So I took a punt at it (paid for it in full) and arranged to get it shipped to me.

It arrived and it was nice to find that everything was exactly as the seller described - so clearly my belief/feeling that he was an honest chap and the bike was as described was correct.



So what's wrong with it

Indicator pods frequently fall off
Oil seal leak in the clutch housing - so might be dealing with that soonish
Paintwork showing signs of use
Exhaust can has graze on it
It's out of MOT

However 10 mins after delivery and having re-fitted the battery it fired up first prod - exhaust gasses are smoke free and it ticks over nicely - the ABS light goes out once moving and in the short trip up a private road and back it all seems fine.

Plans are get it MOT'd and taxed (I've already insured it) then fix what needs fixing in between riding it (a colour change may well be on the cards as I'm not keen on the blue and it needs some paintwork rectification anyway)
 

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Looks like a nice, clean example. I for one think these bikes are worth the effort (to a point) to keep on the road. You didn't mention the odometer reading, but at least as a 97, you don't have to worry about the overly-complex Servo-ABS giving you any trouble. The clutch leak? It it's not too bad, I'd ride it until the clutch starts to slip from contamination. Anyone's guess how long that might take...a few months, a year or more? Depended on how bad the leak is and how much you ride it, I guess. Everyone will chime in about the rubber brake lines, and how they should be replaced with stainless kit. Something to put on your "to do" list. Happy Riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks like a nice, clean example. I for one think these bikes are worth the effort (to a point) to keep on the road.
I run older bikes and older cars (oldest is 1972 then 1979, 1985, 1991 and 1998 newest is 2001) - they are all worth keeping on the road - I've spent more than the value of my 98 BMW 7 series on a suspension refurbishment - it's worth way more than that to me and I know every inch of the car and it hasn't been near a dealer in the 10 years I've owned it - literally everything I do myself. I've also owned a Lotus for 16 year and everyone knows what Lotus stands for - Lots Of Trouble - Usually Serious...... That's never seen a dealer since I purchased it and doesn't fall under the "to a point" catagory.

You didn't mention the odometer reading, but at least as a 97, you don't have to worry about the overly-complex Servo-ABS giving you any trouble.
just over 50K Miles although condition wise you wouldn't know it - I'd still prefer an older K100 or K1100 but they just don't seem to come up in my budget - I have champagne tastes on beer money.

Last BMW I oned was an R100RS



and before that was an R65LS



The clutch leak? It it's not too bad, I'd ride it until the clutch starts to slip from contamination. Anyone's guess how long that might take...a few months, a year or more? Depended on how bad the leak is and how much you ride it, I guess.
Now I might be tempted to do that except I already have the part - the tupperwear needs to come off anyway and I'd like to give it some paint and there is nothing like a stripdown to get yourself aquainted with a new vehicle :D

Everyone will chime in about the rubber brake lines, and how they should be replaced with stainless kit. Something to put on your "to do" list. Happy Riding.
some hoses have already been replaced but I agree the difference braided hyd hoses make is worth it.
 

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Keeping an older bike on the road can be a double-edged sword. I tried to keep my old 1989 Harley FXRT on the road after a lady pulled out in front of me and put the front wheel where the engine is! (I was shaken up, but walked away) Plastic parts go obsolete first on almost any bike made. Clean, reusable saddlebags were almost impossible to find. Just motorcycle flea-market junk. I got frustrated after a year and sold it. I'm not saying it can't be done. Any bike can be kept running, but one needs lots of patience, and, sooner or later, lots of money. Like you, I'm on a beer budget. I don't think the K1100-1200 series will every be very "collectable." BMW just made too many of them for that. But they certainly can be considered a "cult" bike with a loyal following. Just look at when they show up on Ebay...always lots of watchers and bidders. P.S. I love your R65LS with the white wheels...one of my favorite airheads. I've looked at a few, but most are too ratty and would require too much $$ to bring back to the cosmetic and mechanical level I'd want. Check in and let us know how it goes with your "new" flying brick.
 

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Hi

Nice colour IMHO. Indicator pods can be sorted out quite cheaply by using magnets, check out I BMW forum.

Had my 98 K1200rs for over 5 years now. Bought with 28500 miles on the clock. On the way home after buying it the clutch slipped! Slipped quite badly again a few times at 51000. Drilled a hole in the bottom of the bell housing and sprayed brake cleaner in there. Now at 78000 miles I have slight misting at the bell housing join. I use Castrol GTX 10-40 which is good for old engines and seals. I also change the clutch fluid every couple of years or less. So far I have not had to do the rear seal, I put this down to the Castrol GTX and the fact that I ride the bike most days.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Keeping an older bike on the road can be a double-edged sword. I tried to keep my old 1989 Harley FXRT on the road after a lady pulled out in front of me and put the front wheel where the engine is! (I was shaken up, but walked away)
That must of been one well built lady - was she hurt?

Plastic parts go obsolete first on almost any bike made. Clean, reusable saddlebags were almost impossible to find. Just motorcycle flea-market junk. I got frustrated after a year and sold it. I'm not saying it can't be done. Any bike can be kept running, but one needs lots of patience, and, sooner or later, lots of money. Like you, I'm on a beer budget.
My bikes are never mint - always presentable without being perfect - beer money budget can be stretched by careful research and opportunity purchases

I don't think the K1100-1200 series will every be very "collectable." BMW just made too many of them for that. But they certainly can be considered a "cult" bike with a loyal following. Just look at when they show up on Ebay...always lots of watchers and bidders.
At current rices for the K1200 RS in the UK they represent great value for a very capable sports tourer. Like I said in my original post the earlier K100RS bikes are way more expensive.

P.S. I love your R65LS with the white wheels...one of my favorite airheads. I've looked at a few, but most are too ratty and would require too much $$ to bring back to the cosmetic and mechanical level I'd want.
I had a good few years with that bike - swapped it for a stink wheel (RG250 Gamma) which started my affection for them - also kick started my addiction to heart transplants in bikes and cars......

Check in and let us know how it goes with your "new" flying brick.
I'll keep it all updated as work progresses.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi

Nice colour IMHO.
Not my favourite colour to be honest - it seems a bit wishy washy but that might get resolved with a repaint

Indicator pods can be sorted out quite cheaply by using magnets, check out I BMW forum.
Found that post a while back - good solution but I'd prefer to fix with original baskets

Had my 98 K1200rs for over 5 years now. Bought with 28500 miles on the clock. On the way home after buying it the clutch slipped! Slipped quite badly again a few times at 51000. Drilled a hole in the bottom of the bell housing and sprayed brake cleaner in there. Now at 78000 miles I have slight misting at the bell housing join. I use Castrol GTX 10-40 which is good for old engines and seals. I also change the clutch fluid every couple of years or less. So far I have not had to do the rear seal, I put this down to the Castrol GTX and the fact that I ride the bike most days.

Mark
That's interesting - I may look at doing that short term but as I have the parts needed already I may just do the job properly - I have enough vehicles already that mark their territory on the drive or garage floor.
 

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Not my favourite colour to be honest - it seems a bit wishy washy but that might get resolved with a repaint



Found that post a while back - good solution but I'd prefer to fix with original baskets



That's interesting - I may look at doing that short term but as I have the parts needed already I may just do the job properly - I have enough vehicles already that mark their territory on the drive or garage floor.
Mostly to honor my g-pa a Harley could find its way into my ownership. Even one older than meself. A bit over 60 here. I -know- there's -'drip with the rod' oiled twin out there for me (even).

My previ0us bike was an '80 R100RS nekkid, The fellow I bought off of (no doubt) sole off the glass for a tidy profit. I luv me some beemer in any event.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
First Milestone today

MOT test

Passed with one advisory - front tyre close to wear limit (see note*)

So with a pass I bought the obligatory VED and then had a little ride out to get used to it.

First impressions

- The weight disappears once rolling
- I'd forgotten how annoying the indicator set up is if you aren't used to it
- Engine pulls nicely from low down and seems very linear across the rev range
- Not sure which screen position suits me yet
- Engine seems a little rough at idle but smooths out once revs rise





Note * It's also fitted the wrong way round - seems to have been like that for a while.....
 

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- Engine seems a little rough at idle but smooths out once revs rise

Ah, the infamous "box of rocks" idle of the K bikes. For once, it really is a case of "they all do that." Rubber mounted engine in the frame doesn't help the perceived idle quality, but, as you noted, does wonders for the vibration levels once under way. You should sit on a rubber-mounted Harley Davidson or Buell...those things blur your vision at idle!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ah, the infamous "box of rocks" idle of the K bikes. For once, it really is a case of "they all do that." Rubber mounted engine in the frame doesn't help the perceived idle quality, but, as you noted, does wonders for the vibration levels once under way.
I wouldn't have described it as a box of rocks idle - more a carbs out of balance chuffle or an idle a little low stutter.

It certainly smooths out once the revs rise

It's nothing like the "ball bearings being shaken in a biscuit tin" at idle you get with some Ducati's...

You should sit on a rubber-mounted Harley Davidson or Buell...those things blur your vision at idle!
I tried a UK Buell many years ago - had a few v twins over the years but couldn't get on with the riding position and the agricultural nature of the drive train. The idle movement was amusing :grin
 

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It's nothing like the "ball bearings being shaken in a biscuit tin" at idle you get with some Ducati's...


I've never been on one but the Duke at idle is closer to than my Beem at full song. (couldn't tell you much about them otherwise.)

Interesting - I was parked and another K1300GT - 2 up - came by in parking lot or car park, as the _British_ might say. I was sitting in the shade a little ways away.

Boy oh boy, did that sound good. It was like the feeling a cat has when you put a bell around it's neck. "what's that sound?"

The Dukes are all about bidness!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Nice, I picked up a 98 this spring. I did the rare earth magnet fix on my turn signal pods, see link.

See http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/42-k1200rs-gt-classic/11305-krs-pods-fixed-forever.html?highlight=rare+earth
I think I might just buy new back plates from BMW it would be cheaper than magnets :grin What I can't seem to find is those baskets - guessing made in China!!!

I also had the rear seal or crankshaft nut o-ring leak and the clutch was slipping. thecycleexchange.com sells a 30 day warranty with all their used bikes and they covered the clutch replacement and used the Viton O-Ring recommended on this forum.
It hasn't dropped a drip yet.....

Good luck with your flying brick.
Thanks - I hope you are enjoying yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Had a little 100 mile run out on the new to me K1200RS - getting used to it slowly (bloody indicators - I'd forgotten how long it took me to get used to them last time I had a BMW - or how long it took me to revert to other manufacturers set up)

Seastar were doing 2 dyno power runs for £25 (Proceeds to charity) so I got them to run it



Book figure is 130 bhp from memory so a very respectable 115 bhp at the rear wheel and nice fueling across the rev range after 55,000 miles and several owners says the engine seems to be happy.

I have a few jobs to do on it over the winter and I'd better order a pair of tyres because the front has seen better days and definitely doesn't give you confidence and the rear has been squared off a bit
 

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Discussion Starter #16
New tyres fitted - so much better now - much smoother to ride even though I'm scrubbing in so not pushing it much (the old rear tyre had been filled with slime)

The knackered Givi Top box (dodgy lock and water seals) has been binned and the monorack adjusted to fit my previous bikes top box which is in very good condition and easily swallows two full face helmets

Next job is to try and reduce the throttle return spring to a more acceptable level as anything over 35 miles and it starts giving me cramp. I asked a mate if he thought it was a bit heavy and he said how do you ride it like that so it's not just me
 

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Next job is to try and reduce the throttle return spring to a more acceptable level as anything over 35 miles and it starts giving me cramp. I asked a mate if he thought it was a bit heavy and he said how do you ride it like that so it's not just me
Cheap alternative in the meantime is a throttle-rocker/crampbuster (or similar cheap copy off fleabay), clips over the throttle and use the pressure of your palm to twist..... use them on both my bikes (commuting and touring), along with grip-puppies. Much more comfortable.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cheap alternative in the meantime is a throttle-rocker/crampbuster (or similar cheap copy off fleabay), clips over the throttle and use the pressure of your palm to twist..... use them on both my bikes (commuting and touring), along with grip-puppies. Much more comfortable.
I'll look at those but as I'll probably rip the whole bike apart over the winter I've added the throttle spring reduction to the list of jobs already.

I'd like to get it painted a different colour but the funds have gone on a garage door replacement now.......:sad
 

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I'll look at those but as I'll probably rip the whole bike apart over the winter I've added the throttle spring reduction to the list of jobs already.
Recent discussion about same on the LT forum (same bike essentially) discussed whether the idle increased slightly due to the (IIRC) carbs possibly not closing completely on throttle release.
Here's the thread... throttle body return springs - BMW Luxury Touring Community
Didn't seem to bother anyone though....
 
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