[Mike in Meadow Flat]

Well, crap! It had to happen didn't it?

Coming home this evening I got the dreaded ABS failure after stopping at a traffic light. I pulled over to the side, turned the bike off, then re-started it. The lights when away. Thirty kms later the lights came back on again. Fortunately, I was close to home and rode carefully and slowly until I got home and put the bike in the shed.

I checked the bike. When starting it goes through the sell-test and ride off test with not a problem. When applying the rear brake, the lights go into melt-down with a solid General warning light and a ABS light flashing at 4 times per second. I restarted the bike and did the ride-off test again. This time, I tested the front brake. All good until I applied enough pressure to activate rear ABS circuit. Again the warning lights went into melt-down with a solid General warning light and a ABS light flashing at 4 times per second.

Here's the interesting bit. When the ignition is on but the bike is not running and I apply the brakes I can hear the pumps activating. The front pump sound fine but the rear pump sounds noisy. I have power assist at both ends.

Does anyone have any suggestions where to begin looking or should I just move forward and order the RH Electronics or MotorWorks ABS replacement?

 

[EricK1300GTSE]

Start looking on bikesales for a used Ducati...





But seriously I'd be ordering the RH electronics or motorworks replacement kit, saves all the pfaffing around.

 

[Mike in Meadow Flat]

Yeah, that’s what I’m thinking. I’ll try to bleed the ABS pump but I doubt that will fix the problem.

I’m thinking bikes are getting too complicated. . .

 

[RAC]

That sucks. I'm sure you've checked all the easy stuff. Fluid level in the under seat reservoir. Rear pedal is returning to stop and switch is adjusted properly etc.
Am curious... bike not running, key off, if you depress the rear brake lever firmly can you hear the valving in the abs pump clicking open and closed?
I dread this happening to my GT some day. Kinda like the servo and.

 

[Arwen]

I thought your compatriot did a good job here.

The procedure is easy, costs next to nothing & works, resulting in reliable brakes. It’s what I plan on doing if ever my ABS fails (despite careful maintenance). I do like ABS, but happy without if necessary.
Best of luck, Arwen’s Rider

 

[Mike in Meadow Flat]

That sucks. I'm sure you've checked all the easy stuff. Fluid level in the under seat reservoir. Rear pedal is returning to stop and switch is adjusted properly etc.
Am curious... bike not running, key off, if you depress the rear brake lever firmly can you hear the valving in the abs pump clicking open and closed?
I dread this happening to my GT some day. Kinda like the servo and.

Yep. Fluid level has been checked and the rear pedal is returning to stop. I‘ll check the switch adjustment tomorrow along with checking to see if the valve in the ABS unit is clicking open and closed.

Looks like I will be ordering a MotorWorks unit tomorrow. I’d like to have the RH Electronics unit but it‘s $1,230 AUD plus shipping at the current exchange rate. OUCH!!!

 

[QuelleCrise?]

Yep. Fluid level has been checked and the rear pedal is returning to stop. I‘ll check the switch adjustment tomorrow along with checking to see if the valve in the ABS unit is clicking open and closed.

Looks like I will be ordering a MotorWorks unit tomorrow. I’d like to have the RH Electronics unit but it‘s $1,230 AUD plus shipping at the current exchange rate. OUCH!!!

Fwiw I knew a guy once managed to twist his rear res. to master hose.
Lights and horrors. He de twisted and lives in hubris addled by Joy til next time.

 

[Alexmcc]

Mike, my grandsons bike had similar symptoms. I bought a second hand replacement unit (same part number) fitted it and never had another problem. They are generally a reliable unit, the failures get lots of publicity but there are thousands that never have a problem. I have a 2003 kgt, replaced the fluid every year since new, never an issue.

 

[RAC]

I did have a bad hose from the reservoir to the pump last year. But it didn't cause any issues.

 

[Mike in Meadow Flat]

I'm ordering new stainless hoses to replace the hoses that are on the bike now. I believe they are originals. So if I lucky, the hose has collapsed. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[Mike in Meadow Flat]

Am curious... bike not running, key off, if you depress the rear brake lever firmly can you hear the valving in the abs pump clicking open and closed?
I dread this happening to my GT some day. Kinda like the servo and.

Switch appears to be aligned OK. I can't hear if the valving in the abs pump is clicking open and closed. Doesn't mean it's not but the gain on my hearing aids may not be high enough for me to tell. (Too many rock concerts, V8's with Thrush mufflers and cut-outs, shot-guns and deer rifles while growing up.)

Servo ABS removal unit & braided SS brake lines just ordered from Motorworks. We'll see how this works out. Nice thing about the Motorworks unit is I should be able to replace it with an ABS unit if I find one.

 

[Mike in Meadow Flat]

I wonder......Today I was tinkering and going over the braking system. When I turn on the ignition and pull the front brake lever slowly, I can hear the front ABS circuit pump come on. Continuing to pull the lever, the rear ABS circuit pump comes on with the front pump but it sounds like it is straining. When I press the rear brake lever only, rear pump comes on with the same straining sound. Pressing the brake does provide residual braking.

I'm wondering if the rear circuit is blocked. I'm pretty sure that the brake hoses are original so maybe they are beginning to deteriorate and block the rear brake line? I'll try bleeding the pump and replacing brake hoses. If that doesn't work then I'll swap out the ABS unit for the MotorWorks unit.

 

[EricK1300GTSE]

Sounds plausible, braided lines don't last forever, and they do fail internally as there is nowhere else for the lining to go.

 

[Moss]

Well, crap! It had to happen didn't it?

Coming home this evening I got the dreaded ABS failure after stopping at a traffic light. I pulled over to the side, turned the bike off, then re-started it. The lights when away. Thirty kms later the lights came back on again. Fortunately, I was close to home and rode carefully and slowly until I got home and put the bike in the shed.

I checked the bike. When starting it goes through the sell-test and ride off test with not a problem. When applying the rear brake, the lights go into melt-down with a solid General warning light and a ABS light flashing at 4 times per second. I restarted the bike and did the ride-off test again. This time, I tested the front brake. All good until I applied enough pressure to activate rear ABS circuit. Again the warning lights went into melt-down with a solid General warning light and a ABS light flashing at 4 times per second.

Here's the interesting bit. When the ignition is on but the bike is not running and I apply the brakes I can hear the pumps activating. The front pump sound fine but the rear pump sounds noisy. I have power assist at both ends.

Does anyone have any suggestions where to begin looking or should I just move forward and order the RH Electronics or MotorWorks ABS replacement?

Hi Mike.
Had the same crap last year. Had a go with the Youtube fixes, but besides incurring hefty labour costs, it left the brakes feeling VERY dodgy. They were very uneven and grabby. And the brake light was permanently on. So there's that.
I relented, sold one of the kids and bought the RH kit. Perfect. Bike feels better than ever, and I have full confidence in the brakes again. Worth the money.

 

[cobbler]

Sounds like you just lost the rear circuit, lost mine several times and finally eliminated just the rear circuit. Go to this site, for reference only you can get the part wherever you want, MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - K1200RS 02-04 (K41) scroll down to the section labeled "BRAKE PIPE, REAR, WITHOUT ABS" and look at item #5, it's the same and #4 for the "FRONT" part# 34 32 7 661 752 Bypass Cable. Install this bypass but you'll also need to buy/make two plugs, one for each of the hard lines off the modulator, two different sizes. Bleed the rear then disassemble the dash and remove the bulb for the ABS, put a piece of elecrtical tape over it or live with it. flashing. You'll always hear the ticking of the modulator but after your moving you can't hear it. If you go this route and can find the "Bypass Cable" get two incase the front ever goes out then you can eliminate the entire system and go analog. Seems the rear is the constant failure with these units. I've been thru one rebuild and two used ones and I'm freaking DONE with that shit design. What were they thinking when they designed this awful system? I have one bypass on deck and the electrical system of an older modulator modified and ready for f the front ever goes out. I can't see buy a mudulator that is the same resale cost of the bike. My front brakes are still ABS/power assist so only the rear is analog. Good Luck!

 

[Beech]

The kit Moss bought has electronics to keep those functions like speedo and lights working. Not sure the Moto kit does as it costs so much less.

 

[Mike in Meadow Flat]

Sounds like you just lost the rear circuit, lost mine several times and finally eliminated just the rear circuit. Go to this site, for reference only you can get the part wherever you want, MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - K1200RS 02-04 (K41) scroll down to the section labeled "BRAKE PIPE, REAR, WITHOUT ABS" and look at item #5, it's the same and #4 for the "FRONT" part# 34 32 7 661 752 Bypass Cable. Install this bypass but you'll also need to buy/make two plugs, one for each of the hard lines off the modulator, two different sizes. Bleed the rear then disassemble the dash and remove the bulb for the ABS, put a piece of elecrtical tape over it or live with it. flashing. You'll always hear the ticking of the modulator but after your moving you can't hear it. If you go this route and can find the "Bypass Cable" get two incase the front ever goes out then you can eliminate the entire system and go analog. Seems the rear is the constant failure with these units. I've been thru one rebuild and two used ones and I'm freaking DONE with that shit design. What were they thinking when they designed this awful system? I have one bypass on deck and the electrical system of an older modulator modified and ready for f the front ever goes out. I can't see buy a mudulator that is the same resale cost of the bike. My front brakes are still ABS/power assist so only the rear is analog. Good Luck!

Thanks for the suggestions, Jim. I've ordered the Motor Works ABS Servo eliminator thingy and it should be here in a week. I spoke with the techs there and they say that by using the ECU from the ABS system, you still have the brake lights and speedo operational. The instructions say to remove the ECU from the ABS, attach it to the by-pass thing-a-ma-jig, install the brake pipes and bleed the system. No cutting of wires but you do need to remove the bulb for the ABS. The also suggest removing the ABS relay. After doing all this, I'll wind up with no power brakes either in front or in the rear. I'll probably go to a smaller diameter rear master-cylinder later depending on how the rear brake feels. The next options are to go to the RH Electronics Second Life kit, have the unit rebuilt or find a 2nd had unit from somewhere.

I've been collecting for of the special tools I'll need. I purchased a set of E-Torx wrenches so I can remove the ABS unit from the mount without screwing up the bolt heads. Also had to pick up a set of pentagon-post screw drivers so I can get the ECU off of the ABS module. I already have a set of anti-tamper screwdriver bits but the Motorrad must have decided to go with the special pentagon-post screw that Apple uses.

I guess the good thing about this is I'll be able to kill several birds with one stone. I'll swap out the brake hoses for braided SS, install the handlebar extensions, do the annual maintenance while I've got the Tupperware off, and install the LED pilot light on the instrument cluster so I can tell when the heated seat is on low or high. The bad thing is I'm missing riding time on the K while it is down. I'm riding the Sportster but after 30-40 km, my throttle hand is asleep from the vibration. Still, it's a bike so I shouldn't whinge too much.

 

[Mike in Meadow Flat]

The kit Moss bought has electronics to keep those functions like speedo and lights working. Not sure the Moto kit does as it costs so much less.

Thanks, Beech. The RH Kit may be my fall back position if the Motor Works unit doesn't work out.

 

[Arwen]

Hi Folks,

I’m puzzled by what this MotorWorks “Thingy” actually provides, other than an associated invoice needing paying😀?

I read the above from Mike who is buying one.
“Thanks for the suggestions, Jim. I've ordered the Motor Works ABS Servo eliminator thingy and it should be here in a week. I spoke with the techs there and they say that by using the ECU from the ABS system, you still have the brake lights and speedo operational. The instructions say to remove the ECU from the ABS, attach it to the by-pass thing-a-ma-jig, install the brake pipes and bleed the system. No cutting of wires but5 you do need to remove the bulb for the ABS. The also suggest removing the ABS relay. After doing all this, I'll wind up with no power brakes either in front or in the rear.”

The work required & outcome look remarkably similar to the video I posted in this thread, without needing to buy & pay for anything. Did anyone even watch it? I see no reason to purchase anything, except maybe a few tools as mentioned above although even those are probably optional in some cases.

Best Regards Arwen’s Rider.

 

[RAC]

The motorworks "thingy" simply gives you a platform by which you can reconnect the brake lines using the same connections without having to do any extra plumbing. If you are handy with a double flare tool you could accomplish the same without it.
The "second life" kit from RH goes one further and provides a reprogrammed abs ecu that lets you leave the relay and bulb in place and choose how you want the warning lights to react at start up.
And then, there's a company in Poland that sells on eBay UK that strikes a middle balance. You send them YOUR abs ecu and they reprogram IT and send it back mounted on a plate that's similar to the RH mount. Price of course is something in between.