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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I have a 2000 K1200RS with a blinking ABS light. My Dealer keeps trying to scare me in for repairs by saying the pump will freeze up @ $1500 if I don't hurry up and come in. Is this system so delicate that parts fail when something else goes wrong? Every forum I've been on talks about ABS,ABS,ABS! I don't mind getting a computer check and basic power bleed for $140. But, if this is gonna be normal, I may just remove all the extra baggage under the seat and install aTeflon 3 hose system and forget it. Does this go on all the time? :dunno:
 

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First off what is your flash rate and what lamps are flashing...under your seat there should be a trouble shooting guide (sticker on the rear wheel well) showing different flash rates for different problems....if its an alternating flash rate between the warning light and the abs light of 1 sec it is a low fluid in your reservoir that is located next to your plastic coolent tank on the right side under the seat....its a small white plastic reservoir...you can see it just by standing next to the bike....look and see if either chamber in that reservoir is low....most likely the inner most one...it don't take much to be low....if its low you may need new pads...check those also..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. You do know we have two different systems. Mine is ABS II, not Intergal. The sensors have been checked and cleaned.
The front and rear brake pads are fine.
The front and rear resoviours are full.
Speed bleeders are on the front. I bled nearly a bottle of DOT 4 fluid thru the system.
I have excellent brakes.
The ABS lights 1 and 2 blink alternately, 1 second apart.
I've got a new battery. I ride every day.
The only thing left for me to do is go to the dealer.
My question was, is it normal to have ABS problems often? Or is this a rare occasion?
 

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I had an '03 for three years and put nearly 60k on the bike. I had no problems at all with the ABS system with the exception of the time I low sided on the right side and bent the foot brake up and it wasn't hitting the sensor anymore, I think. Then the ABS light flashed to tell me the system wouldn't initialize. You might want to check the foot brake, it doesn't take long...
 

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The OP has 'Excellent brakes' - but ABS is not functional??

The dealer knowing the age of the bike may be cautious about a possible unknown past history of irregular fluid changes. He's probably thinking when he puts the diags on it will spit out the 'ABS pump failure code' . Of course being a BMW dealer with liabilities he won't be gutsy about trying to fix a siezed modulator.

So if he gets the bike just as pistons may be starting to sieze and give that code early, he'll charge you up for a brake flush, try and excercise the ABS modulator and if he still gets the fault code, charge you up for that work AND a new modulator. C'est la vie!

There are wiring and sensor gap issues that could cause a less expensive malfunction.



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You ask if there are many problems with ABS on BMWs bikes.
I will say no. I have had several bikes with ABS, and so do many of my friends. None of us have had any problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I don't mind spending money to get it right, but, not on a regular basis. I guess owning Hondas for 15 years have spoiled me, as they are maintance free, except for oil and tires!
 

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There should be a way to reset the ABS computer. I know it's easy to do on the R-series bikes, mine's kind of old but I've done it.

Search the tech articles over at IBMWR.org & see if you can figure it out. With a new battery, you might just need a simple reset.

Your brakes will work just fine without functional ABS. I rode my GS for almost a year with blinky ABS lights and never had any problem stopping. Of course, the ABS didn't work, but I already knew that :)

--chiba
 

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The KRS ABS computer is really sensitive to voltage levels. It is often the first sign of a battery going bad. If your battery is more than a few years old, replacing it might very well do the trick.

I had this exact problem and it worked for me.
 

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Brokerecord said:
Thanks for the reply. You do know we have two different systems. Mine is ABS II, not Intergal. The sensors have been checked and cleaned.
The front and rear brake pads are fine.
The front and rear resoviours are full.
Speed bleeders are on the front. I bled nearly a bottle of DOT 4 fluid thru the system.
I have excellent brakes.
The ABS lights 1 and 2 blink alternately, 1 second apart.
I've got a new battery. I ride every day.
The only thing left for me to do is go to the dealer.
My question was, is it normal to have ABS problems often? Or is this a rare occasion?
One other thing you may want to check seeing your running a code of 1 Hz is your float in your fluid reservoir it could be stuck down and not floating.....
 

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could be a wire or a gauge or a remote signal of forthcoming final drive problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the remarks. I guess they all go with what I said earlier about how finicky the BMW computer is. Compared to the auto world, bikes are years behind in durability and maintance free.
"War Horse" is stabled right now At Shreveport Motor Sports getting his black box checked out.
By this afternoon, I'll either be grinning or crying.
Dickey
 

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"Life is what happens while we're busy making other plans."
- - John Lennon

Good luck with the black box! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Up-Date

Well now, I got the awaited call from the BMW Shop.
Re-set my computer 4 times, and kept getting the stuck piston error.
Bled entire system and great brakes and solid lever but, no ABS.
Wanted $2700 to put in new works. No can do on a 10 year old bike. This winter, I will completely by-pass the ABS with a Galfer 3 hose set-up.
They put my black tape back over the blinking lights! Oh well, $76 to tell me exactly whats wrong. At least I know.
 

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Before you bypass the ABS...

Keep your eye open for a used ABS modulator off a salvaged bike. Market price for a good one is well under $1000, most go for around $500 from reputable recyclers (i.e. they will refund your money if the unit is DOA). You'll need the BMW part # for the modulator in YOUR bike (often VIN # dependent) - only buy one w/ the same part #. Then surf EBay or other sources to see what comes up. I went through exactly the same scenario on my '99 R1100S (w/only 10K miles on the clock) and through dumb luck found a good modulator on EBay for $65 shipped (don't expect to get that kind of deal!). Max BMW in NH did the modulator transplant, reprogramming, and bleeding the system for less than $300. The downside, of course, is that it's virtually impossible to tell if the modulator is any good until it's installed on the bike so it may only make economic sense to try this once or twice, depending on what you end up paying for a used modulator.

Unfortunately, there's no one that has sucessfully rebuilt these units and as I understand it, BMW is not interested in sharing the data to make it possible. Sure, there could be a liability/safety issue if somebody tinkers with one of these things that's clueless, but I bet the main motivation is dollars or euros in BMW's pocket. Curuiously, lots of folks can rebuild the ABS modulators on BMW cars for a fraction of the cost of a new part.
 

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MarkS said:
You'll need the BMW part # for the modulator in YOUR bike (often VIN # dependent) - only buy one w/ the same part #.
You can use an ABS unit off a bike of the same generation as yours. When I bought my R1100GS, the ABS unit was fried (I knew this upon purchase). It was replaced with an ABS unit from an R1100RT. If you go this route, however, you have to hook it up to a dealer's computer to have the unit reset & "told" what kind of bike it's on.

--chiba
 

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If I had the competence to bypass the ABS unit which was ready for the trash bin anyway, I'd open it up.

Although 'stuck piston' is a death sentence if you lack practical skills, there's nothing to stop the OP carefully opening up the unit, learning something and possibly fixing it. There are no oem parts available if anything gets broken. There's a diode that sometimes fails short circuit (fixable), a relay that might be faulty (fixable) and more often than not, pistons internally that have stuck through lack of use and or brake fluid dirt accumulation.

But since we are talking life dependent brake parts, the ability and skill of the operator to investigate the unknown without manuals for guidance is very important.



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