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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am getting a Areostich electric vest, so I looked into the fuse arrangement on my '04 KRS. In fuse box #2 there is a 7.5 amp fuse for the power socket. OK fine, that's the John Deere port on the left side and will run my vest just fine. Then I see a 4 amp fuse noted as "optional accessory plug". Great to run a radar detector or GPS. Except, where the hell is it? I guess it's buried under the tank, or some other convenient place the factory chose to hide the plug. There is no mention of this plug in the factory repair manual. No sense in wondering if it is switched or not 'cause I can't find it. Any ideas where it is?

Thanks
Bruce C
 

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One plug

There is only one socket from the factory. You can install a second one, the kit is pretty cheap, I don't remember, maybe $20. Perhaps it's so cheap because it's wired and fused already.

Ron
 

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running electronics on separate lines

brucecha said:
I am getting a Areostich electric vest, so I looked into the fuse arrangement on my '04 KRS. In fuse box #2 there is a 7.5 amp fuse for the power socket. OK fine, that's the John Deere port on the left side and will run my vest just fine. Then I see a 4 amp fuse noted as "optional accessory plug". Great to run a radar detector or GPS.
Bruce,

I think it might be better to install a separate line for your radar and GPS. This would help hide the wires running all over the place. You can also install a marine grade cigarette lighter, you can find instructions on pirates site, which is a very handy option.
There is a lot more information about this topic in the archieve section from i-bmw.

ONON-
Mark
 

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Accessory outlet with only 7.5A fuse

Bruce C,
I discovered the same problem on my 04 KRS - with just a vest, the 7.5A fuse should be OK. After checking with my dealer, I even believe that the wiring harness has not been changed from the previous models that had a 15A circuit so you could probably even use a 15A fuse instead of the 7.5A.
However, it's not worth the fuss or the risk of burning up a wiring harness: Buy another outlet for around $10 (be sure to get the kind with the automotive, blade type connectors), and an in-line fuse holder (I used one that came with my Gerbings.) There is a punch-out opening next to the accessory outlet where you can install the second outlet (be sure to label the outlets corrrectly). Run 10 gauge wire direct to the battery. That should be good enough for up to 20A which will power heated vest, pants, gloves and socks. I'm running Gerbings jacket, pants and gloves with no problems on a 15A fuse. Altogether about an hour's worth of wrenching and crimping.
Ride safe
 

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Jurgen,

Just curious about your statement "Run 10 gauge wire direct to the battery. That should be good enough for up to 20A" . Not that there is anything wrong with running 10 AWG wire to the accessory socket, it is the "up to" that I have a problem with. This may place unecessary fear in many members that have run smaller wiring.

There are many guidelines for determining wire sizing vs. recommended maximum amperage. The most commonly accepted ones all have 10 AWG rated at a minimum of 30 amps and most that look at automotive/marine uses (which use fairly short wiring lengths) rate 10 AWG for up to 50 amp circuits. You would be hard pressed to find many (if any) car manufacturers that have wire larger than 12 AWG feeding 30 and even many 40 amp circuits.

My references are IASCA, ASAE, NEC and several websites.

For the length you are talking about in this application - from the battery to the accessory socket location and this would be considered an "open air" circuit that is not exposed to excessive heat, a 14 AWG wire would support up to 20 amps without a problem. I personally would run a 12 AWG since it is still fairly flexible and easy to work with.

Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Pathogen7 said:
Bruce,

I think it might be better to install a separate line for your radar and GPS. This would help hide the wires running all over the place. You can also install a marine grade cigarette lighter, you can find instructions on pirates site, which is a very handy option.
There is a lot more information about this topic in the archieve section from i-bmw.

ONON-
Mark
Mark
Look in your '04 KRS maintainance booklet and there is a supplement (correction) page on the fuse boxes. Mentioned there, in fuse box#2 is a 4 amp. fuse in position #6. It is NON-SWITCHED, is purple wire about #22 gauge and is identified as "optional accessory plug". This is the one that I am curious about and wondering where it is. As near as I can figure BMW offered a GPS system as an option on the '04 RS/GT. Is this circuit for this system? At 4 amps. it would run any electronics I would want to run in my tankbag.
Bruce C
 

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Just curious about your statement "Run 10 gauge wire direct to the battery. That should be good enough for up to 20A" . Not that there is anything wrong with running 10 AWG wire to the accessory socket, it is the "up to" that I have a problem with. This may place unecessary fear in many members that have run smaller wiring.

There are many guidelines for determining wire sizing vs. recommended maximum amperage. The most commonly accepted ones all have 10 AWG rated at a minimum of 30 amps and most that look at automotive/marine uses (which use fairly short wiring lengths) rate 10 AWG for up to 50 amp circuits. You would be hard pressed to find many (if any) car manufacturers that have wire larger than 12 AWG feeding 30 and even many 40 amp circuits.

My references are IASCA, ASAE, NEC and several websites.

For the length you are talking about in this application - from the battery to the accessory socket location and this would be considered an "open air" circuit that is not exposed to excessive heat, a 14 AWG wire would support up to 20 amps without a problem. I personally would run a 12 AWG since it is still fairly flexible and easy to work with.

Randy
Randy, you are correct - 14 gauge is rated for 32 A. I ran 10 ga because that's what I happened to have in stock. Sorry for any confusion this may have caused
 

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BMW Navigation Wiring

The BMW Navigator I has a wiring harness that splices (T Adapter) into the standard accessory plug harness.

As far as the Gerbings go, I installed a fairing mounted controller and used the fused wire provided by Gerbing directly to the batter. The controller has a LED light that pulses to let you know how high you have it set. The output of the controller is feed back under the front of the seat and I plug in there. Works slick. I have thought of mounting it to the second accessory plug, there is enough lead length on the cable, but then you need a coiled cord attached to your jacket liner to get enough lenght from your jacket.
 
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