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2013 K1300S Anniversary Edition
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve seen threads about the “power plug” and Power Commander mainly for the K12s. For later K13s, are they worth the install? I don’t really notice mine being jerky at low RPM or having flat spots in acceleration. Wondering what improvements are specific to the K1300.
 

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I have a booster plug. I’m not sure if it does anything, although my bike idles fine and accelerates fine. There is a slight dip around 5k I think? idk. I didn’t personally notice a huge difference with the booster plug though.

A Power Commander is $300 and you have to get the bike dyno tuned for like $100-$200.
 

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Oh I definitely noticed a difference on my 2006 K1200s. Use to going into curves then rolling on the throttle there would be a long hesitation in accelerating out of the curves, gone. Also on gearing down in curves some popping and such, gone. I do have an Arrow pipe on my bike.
It might have something to do with where you put the sensor. Some just zip tie it to frame just inside the fairing. I drilled a hole in the snorkel on the side the factory sensor was on and used a rubber grommet the size of the sensor. Just push it into the grommet and the same air that the factory sensor "reads" is the same air that the booster plug "reads".
I did a how-to with pictures: Booster Plug Install Photos
 

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Be careful you're not confusing power distribution systems with engine management systems. I use a Booster plug, which I had installed into the airbox behind the air filter (so as to keep it cleaner.) I have a 2015 K1300s Motorsports. Before the plug, I had a pronounced flat spot under acceleration at 5,000 rpm, and myriad problems with engine response at low rpm's. I saw it as a huge issue because it led to stalling the engine off of a stop in left hand turns in traffic. The throttle response was just unpredictable when cracking the throttle. Sometimes you would anticipate power, let out a bit of clutch - and stall because you got no power. Other times you would crack the throttle a bit more and get a surge of power that was almost as bad.

The booster plug ended that for the most part. It makes more difference the less power you give the engine. It makes smooth clutch releases the norm, as it should have been all along. And the flat spot at 5,000 rpm has been much reduced, though not completely gone. It's also made no difference in gas mileage.
 

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When i got my 05 K1200S it had a power commander in it.
It had amazing low rpm power. Difficult to control and required real concentration. A bit painful how hard and abruptly it pulled.
At high rpm no change at all.
The engine was high powered and harsh.
I removed the power commander and it was low powered at low rpm and amazing at high rpm, and fun to ride.
The engine behaves much better and the variation in power and torque is noticeable and excellent. It is great to ride.

When you fit a power commander you lose the closed loop engine control functions - that is crazy - don't do it.
If your engine is not responsive you are probably in too high a gear. Spend more time in 1st and 2nd.

Just my opinion.
 

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2006 BMW k1200S
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I am still not really sure how the adaptive engine software (or whatever they call it) works but it seems the more I run the K1200S without any performance issues the better it runs. I did a bunch of phased testing with an aftermarket slip-on and a Booster Plug. I tried it with the can and w/o the plug, with the plug and w/o the can and the poor thing seems to run best with the factory coffee-can, bazooka like , boat anchor, 35 lb. silencer in place and no Booster Plug. I keep the R's up to avoid the bucking bronc effect at low speeds. I also twist the throttle a bit when nearing a stop to remind the screaming bitch who's in control.

I think these bikes are a bit temperamental and each one has a different conglomerate of issues. Now that the testing is over I need stock in Michelin and Chevron. On another note, I still have an issue with poor idle control when traversing over 5,000 ft. in elevation. Go figure that one out and let me know. Since my lingering issues have to do with idle control and city riding I try to stay away from those two places.
 

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I am still not really sure how the adaptive engine software (or whatever they call it) works but it seems the more I run the K1200S without any performance issues the better it runs. I did a bunch of phased testing with an aftermarket slip-on and a Booster Plug. I tried it with the can and w/o the plug, with the plug and w/o the can and the poor thing seems to run best with the factory coffee-can, bazooka like , boat anchor, 35 lb. silencer in place and no Booster Plug. I keep the R's up to avoid the bucking bronc effect at low speeds. I also twist the throttle a bit when nearing a stop to remind the screaming bitch who's in control.

I think these bikes are a bit temperamental and each one has a different conglomerate of issues. Now that the testing is over I need stock in Michelin and Chevron. On another note, I still have an issue with poor idle control when traversing over 5,000 ft. in elevation. Go figure that one out and let me know. Since my lingering issues have to do with idle control and city riding I try to stay away from those two places.
This confirms my suspicions that you can't beat OEM/Stock.

It's like the engineers BMW employs actually know what they're doing
 

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I have a Remus can and an axfied fuel manager fitted to my k12R and it has never run better. The snatchiness at low speed is totally gone and the engine is turbine like. Engineers might know what they’re doing but are constrained by cost, emissions et al. For example - the notorious clutch issue, the quick release fuel fittings, the incorrect oil level in the final drive. I could go on. OEM can definitely be improved if the new components are correctly matched.
 

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I have a Remus can and an axfied fuel manager fitted to my k12R and it has never run better. The snatchiness at low speed is totally gone and the engine is turbine like. Engineers might know what they’re doing but are constrained by cost, emissions et al. For example - the notorious clutch issue, the quick release fuel fittings, the incorrect oil level in the final drive. I could go on. OEM can definitely be improved if the new components are correctly matched.
Incorrect oil level in the final drive?
 

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Yes. The original spec called for 220 ml of oil. This caused leaking at the seals as the oil heated up. BMW changed the spec to 180ml which fixed the problem. Engineers do make mistakes occasionally
 

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Yes. The original spec called for 220 ml of oil. This caused leaking at the seals as the oil heated up. BMW changed the spec to 180ml which fixed the problem. Engineers do make mistakes occasionally
AH! That's why my stupid thing is leaking. I guess the problem solves itself.

Also I don't claim engineers don't make mistakes, I say they generally achieve what they set out to achieve.
 
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