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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'd like to experiment more with the high and low seat positions on my 2004 GT, but I find it very cumbersome to put the seat into position each time. Finding the right position is one problem, and just getting it to lock into place is another. Any foolproof techniques?
 

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Take your tool pouch out and try putting the seat back on. The tool pouch has to be in the tray perfectly to get the seat to latch. Not to mention the tools have to in the pouch correctly.
 

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diggitydogg said:
I'd like to experiment more with the high and low seat positions on my 2004 GT, but I find it very cumbersome to put the seat into position each time. Finding the right position is one problem, and just getting it to lock into place is another. Any foolproof techniques?
I have the same complaint, but it has to fit just right to lock in. Your GT seat is a bit different that the RS but same idea. There are two positions at the front support of the 'seat'. Choose the height starting from the front first. Once you get the selected height of the front, supporting the rear to not let it catch the striker, but just almost touching, push the seat forward now, the seat will try to position the center support blocks of the seat. Finally give it a hard forward push and down at the same time will then latch the rear catches. I do this by standing at the rear of the bike. You'll notice there are two locking positions at the rear locking latch, one just forward of the other. Have fun!:D
 

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Here ya go...

diggitydogg said:
I'd like to experiment more with the high and low seat positions on my 2004 GT, but I find it very cumbersome to put the seat into position each time. Finding the right position is one problem, and just getting it to lock into place is another. Any foolproof techniques?
I went back to our Community Arkives and copied this from an old post of mine. If everything is working properly you should never have to use any force. We have the GT seat on our RS. The seat pan is the same for all RS/GT.

Low position -- Place seat onto bike, forward section first. Push rear section down until the latch clicks, then slide the seat forward until the latch clicks again. Done.(if it won't go, your toolkit is too high. To verify, remove tool kit and try it again.)
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High Position -- Place seat onto bike, forward section first. Push rear section down until the latch clicks ONCE. STOP. Place your hands under the front section of the seat as if you were going to use it as a battering ram against the tank (fingers under, thumbs up). Move the seat vertically. Feel for the top slot, then move the seat forward. The rear latch will click, and voila.
 

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On a similar subject, I came across some info I've puzzled about for a while, on another board. When you add bar risers, the oem seat irrespective of whether it's high or low, still sets the front lower so you slide off the cumfy bit and up against the tank.

These threads discussed lowering of the rear bump stops and adding spacers to the front. So I wonder if anybody else has altered their seat to raise the front?



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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. I'll try these suggestions tonight. When you're inserting the seat, are you also holding the latch open with the key?
 

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No. Don't touch the key. Leave the key alone. Ignore the key.

It is really very simple and easy. You know how much trouble it is to get the key to release the seat fully? That is because the latch mechanism is designed to assist you in adjusting the seat height.

With the seat off the bike..
Place the seat on the bike and press down at the back end of the seat where it latches. You will feel the seat click into place. Just one click.
Move to the front of the seat. Pick up the sides of the seat and move the seat towards the front of the bike. You will feel it engage the supports. Go back to the rear of the seat and push the top of the seat forward and down. Just place your hand on top of the seat about 2 or 3 inches from the back end and push towards the footpegs, you know down and forward. The seat will latch in the up position.

To lower the seat...
Use the key to unlock the seat. pick up the rear of the seat slightly. You will not be able to remove the seat. It will just be loose. Release the key. Pull the seat towards the back of the bike. The front of the seat will disengage from the up support and it will fall. Push the top of the seat forward and down until the latch clicks.
It takes a lot longer to describe in words than it does to do. Once you do it you will be amazed at how simple it is.
 

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Yes I made two brackets that sandwich to the stock ones, a hole in them to slip over the haed of the allen bolt and a hole to attach them thru the same home the cross bar WAS attached to, the rest of the bracket places the bar 1 1/8" higher, now I stop sliding forward on the Corbin seat( the stock seat is long gone).
 

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Caution!Try to keep in mind that the forward motion of the seat when you're trying to get it to that second latch point, is also the same direction that will take the bike off of the stand. Or, just enough to reposition the side stand so that in the five minutes you take to leave and come back, the bike is found napping on it's left side.

Haven't caught it napping, but I did find I was holding the bike up by the seat from the rear and contemplating my recovery proceedure.



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Seat issue

I had the same problem when I first got the bike. With time and practice you will have it down.....
 

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brucev said:
Take your tool pouch out and try putting the seat back on. The tool pouch has to be in the tray perfectly to get the seat to latch. Not to mention the tools have to in the pouch correctly.
Amen Brother! Every time I take the tool pouch out and put it back in I have trouble getting the seat back on. Once the tools & pouch are low enough in the tray the seat goes on first time, every time.

Practice putting the seat on with the pouch removed. No need to play with the key that releases the seat. It's not involved. Squirt a little WD40 where the seat bottom engages the locking mechanism.
 

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brucev said:
Take your tool pouch out and try putting the seat back on. The tool pouch has to be in the tray perfectly to get the seat to latch. Not to mention the tools have to in the pouch correctly.
Amen to that. I have had my tools in the tail bag since my initial seat adjustment. Do the tools ever go back correctly, or am I just incompetent?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You're right, everyone. The seat goes on and off in seconds with the tool kit removed and the techniques that were recommended. Maybe my tool pouch is too bulky. Can someone post a photo that shows where each of the tools goes in the pouch?
 

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Adjusting Seat Height

On my '03 K1200rs, I too had some difficulty getting the seat into the high position. If you notice, the U-shaped latch that's bolted to the seat has a small amount of fore and aft movement....try repositioning this latch...best to make small adjustments and then test. Mine did work much better after a small adjustment. I also removed the rubber strap for the tool kit to free up space....seems to me the seat will keep the tool kit in place even if you decide to do a backflip with the bike.
 

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CABNFVR said:
High Position -- Place seat onto bike, forward section first. Push rear section down until the latch clicks ONCE. STOP. Place your hands under the front section of the seat as if you were going to use it as a battering ram against the tank (fingers under, thumbs up). Move the seat vertically. Feel for the top slot, then move the seat forward. The rear latch will click, and voila.
What he said.

Practice makes perfect. I've seen dealers that couldn't do it.
 

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diggitydogg said:
You're right, everyone. The seat goes on and off in seconds with the tool kit removed and the techniques that were recommended. Maybe my tool pouch is too bulky. Can someone post a photo that shows where each of the tools goes in the pouch?
You really don't need to have all those tools with you all the time.

for most road emergencies, you need to be able to take off and/or repair a tire. or some fuses.

I keep everything I need to remove and patch a tire in my tank bag (my very small tank bag) along with a multi-tool (leatherman) and a multi allen and multi torx thingys. I still have plenty of room in my tankkbag too.

I don't bring the spark plug puller or screwdriver. Now if I'm going on a long trip, I have a med sized tool bag that I bring almost everything I need to field strip the bike that I keep in the luggage somewhere.
 

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osii said:
You really don't need to have all those tools with you all the time.

for most road emergencies, you need to be able to take off and/or repair a tire. or some fuses.

I keep everything I need to remove and patch a tire in my tank bag (my very small tank bag) along with a multi-tool (leatherman) and a multi allen and multi torx thingys. I still have plenty of room in my tankkbag too.

I don't bring the spark plug puller or screwdriver. Now if I'm going on a long trip, I have a med sized tool bag that I bring almost everything I need to field strip the bike that I keep in the luggage somewhere.
One other option is to dump all the tools into an old sock. Then they fit easily, you just have to dump them out to find anything. Not always a desireable alternative, especially if one were really "beside of the road".

I did manage to get mine repacked, but there isn't a lot of room. The factory must have a training manual. ;)
 

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Use the hideen compartment under the seat

I put some of the stuff in the box molded into the underside of the seat bottom. Added spare bulbs, tape, bullets, condoms and other stuff that is rarely if ever needed. With the GT be certain to preposition the cord.
 
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