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I am considering purchasing replacement suspension (front and rear) for my GT to lower the bike. Has anyone donw this and what were your experiences. I do not do a lot of agressive sport riding, but rather more touring so I would assume that peg scraping would not be an issue for me (although I do have peg lowers on my GT).

Any thoughts and suggestions would be helpful.
 

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lower shocks

I did buy Works Performance shocks, front & rear,which lowered my 04 GT another inch after the lower seat option. I dont ride agressive and had the shocks adjusted twice for the correct sag. Had the sag at 1" & 1/14" and the shocks still topped out (clunk after coming out of a dip). Works said to come to their shop and they would look at it (they have a 1 year warranty). I never had the time to go because the bike rode fine otherwise. Again the only problem was the topping out. I think Ohlins has a lowering shock and for sure Wilburs (check out http://piratesk12site.net/Wilber2.htm) at Pirates Lair website. Oh yes, I had a friend cut my side stand about a 1/4 inch. Also the center stand took more muscle to get up. After watching the mechanic do it (I could not at first) I decided I should be able to and was, just had to put more muscle into it. Good luck
 

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kennyg said:
Had the sag at 1" & 1/14" and the shocks still topped out (clunk after coming out of a dip). Works said to come to their shop and they would look at it (they have a 1 year warranty). I never had the time to go because the bike rode fine otherwise.
Rear rider sag should be 1¾" to 2". General rule is 25-33% of the rear suspension travel (6"), and 33% for the front (4.5"). I'd also check the rebound damping, making sure it doesn't "pogo" a bit when the shock is returning to the sag point. If it overshoots, then add some damping. A slight overshoot is ok, and generally you have to adjust it initially to get overshoot, so you can determine how much more damping to add. What this entails is sitting on the bike and bouncing it down with your weight, and observing the results. (Helps if both feet touch the ground, too). What you're after is to have the shock return to the normal sag point (and stop) as quickly as possible. Overshooting (and the subsequent downward movement again) that point increases the time it takes as well as having too much damping (slowing the return rate down).

So, if you bounce, and it comes back up to smack your ass and then go back down again, add some damping. If you bounce and you find yourself timing the return by getting off the bike and watching the return in progress, take some damping out.



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shocks

Sorry, forgot to mention that you have to ask for the 1" shorter shocks. Works did mention the normal sag, but per their lowered shocks the sag settings are different. Ohlins and Wilburs have adjustable, ie reach under and turn a knob, mine did not, wanted to save a few dollars. spend the money, otherwise you have to take parts off to be able to turn the adjustment knob on the rear shock a quarter of an inch at a time. Again the shocks worked fine, just that auwful clunk from dips at only 20 mph. Ive since sold my GT for an S. Have the low seat & ESA. But with the lower weight 530 somthing from 630 somthing pounds I find it easier to push the bike backwards.
If you order from Works, they ask your weight and what kind of riding you do, and they build the shock accordingly. I dont know if Wilburs or Ohlins does this. If I was to do it again I would go with Ohlins with the hand adjustments available.
Enjoy your ride
 
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