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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

I am about to fit an APE manual tensioner on my K1200s despite the packet suggesting that their are instructions on APE's website there are none for my bike, i can see from other posts that some folks have fitted these just wondered if someone would be kind enough to help a newbie with a how to guide?? I really don't to screw it up!!

Thanks

Iain
 

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I've done 3 K1200s bikes and its pretty straight forward.

Once installed adjust the adjusting screw finger tight against the cam chain guide than snug the lock nut. Than follow the direction below

ADJUSTING THE TENSIONER IS DONE WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. ONCE THE ENGINE HAS BEEN STARTED LOOSEN THE LOCK NUT AND TURN THE THREADED ADJUSTER IN OR OUT BASED ON THE SOUND THE CHAIN IS MAKING DURING INITIAL START-UP. IF IT IS INSTALLED CORRECTLY YOU SHOULD HAVE TO TURN THE THREADED ADJUSTER OUT JUST A LITTLE BIT UNTIL YOU START TO HEAR THE CHAIN "TICK" THEN TURN IT BACK IN A HALF A TURN.
ADJUSTMENTS MAY BE NEEDED OVER TIME, REPEAT PROCESS FOR ADJUSTMENT. IF THE NOISE DOES NOT GO AWAY CHECK CAM CHAIN GUIDE RAILS FOR EXCESSIVE WEAR.

Any questions let me know I'll be happy to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies, I have fitted mine tonight not too bad a job panel off and some weird torx bolts to deal with and pulled the old one out original one by the looks of things with a flat plate over the top. The new one is installed started it up and ran very quiet I am on about 4 threads above the lock nut teied backing off until rattled got it to rattle a little bit and I mean a little bit and then tightened it up as per the help earlier.

Not sure if it's too tight or not?? anyway to tell?? Just wondering how many threads on the adjuster above the locknut other people have?

Thanks


Iain

PS The irony of it is the dealer definately told me it had the upgraded on it with the oil reservoir, hmm naughty dealer for not tellling the truth
 

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Thanks for the replies, I have fitted mine tonight not too bad a job panel off and some weird torx bolts to deal with and pulled the old one out original one by the looks of things with a flat plate over the top. The new one is installed started it up and ran very quiet I am on about 4 threads above the lock nut teied backing off until rattled got it to rattle a little bit and I mean a little bit and then tightened it up as per the help earlier.

Not sure if it's too tight or not?? anyway to tell?? Just wondering how many threads on the adjuster above the locknut other people have?

Thanks


Iain

PS The irony of it is the dealer definately told me it had the upgraded on it with the oil reservoir, hmm naughty dealer for not tellling the truth
The way you adjusted it is spot on. Only a couple of threads show above the locknut.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Douglas thats really great to know, now all i need to do is find a way of draining the shaft drive oil without splitting the drive etc etc
 

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You can use a Mighty Vac but splitting the drive is preferred because you can also lube the spline while its apart.
 

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APE Cam Chain Tensioner

I have an new BT1200-Pro APE cam chain tensioner that I never got around to installing. 50.00 shipped to anyone that might be interested.
 

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I've done 3 K1200s bikes and its pretty straight forward.

Once installed adjust the adjusting screw finger tight against the cam chain guide than snug the lock nut. Than follow the direction below

ADJUSTING THE TENSIONER IS DONE WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. ONCE THE ENGINE HAS BEEN STARTED LOOSEN THE LOCK NUT AND TURN THE THREADED ADJUSTER IN OR OUT BASED ON THE SOUND THE CHAIN IS MAKING DURING INITIAL START-UP. IF IT IS INSTALLED CORRECTLY YOU SHOULD HAVE TO TURN THE THREADED ADJUSTER OUT JUST A LITTLE BIT UNTIL YOU START TO HEAR THE CHAIN "TICK" THEN TURN IT BACK IN A HALF A TURN.
ADJUSTMENTS MAY BE NEEDED OVER TIME, REPEAT PROCESS FOR ADJUSTMENT. IF THE NOISE DOES NOT GO AWAY CHECK CAM CHAIN GUIDE RAILS FOR EXCESSIVE WEAR.

Any questions let me know I'll be happy to help.
Does it matter if the engine is hot or cold when you do this procedure?? I had changed the oil just prior to installing mine so engine was warm, but not probably not full operating temp, though not cold either. Just trying to make sure my $90 upgrade doesn't grenade my engine.

Thanks!
 

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Does it matter if the engine is hot or cold when you do this procedure?? I had changed the oil just prior to installing mine so engine was warm, but not probably not full operating temp, though not cold either. Just trying to make sure my $90 upgrade doesn't grenade my engine.

Thanks!
Your fine. :thumb:
 

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Thanks, just learning the ins & outs of BMW for the first time. Lots of...er...nuance to German engineering. Much of it good, some of it ...not so much.
 

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Remember on these bike if your unsure of something always ask.
That's where forums like this are so helpful. I've been wrenching on motorcycles for years and have enough experience to know that each brand has it's own quirks and 'gotchas'. I bought this 2008 K1200S a month ago and have been working on ever since. Even with my experience working on other bikes, would not have been able to accomplish all this without help from this forum.

- Removed Power Commander
- Installed new spark plugs
- Installed new ignition coils
- Installed new air filters and replaced the missing intake snorkels
- Flushed the coolant
- Replaced the spring hose clamps with nice stainless ones
- Cleaned out & de-greased radiator fins
- Changed oil / filter
- Complete service of the final drive
- Installed new tires
- Installed new battery
- Installed Wunderlich riser links (I'm 6'3")
- Installed shift shaft bearing upgrade
- Installed APE cam chain tensioner
- Installed new front brake pads
- Flushed brake fluid front & rear
- Replaced a bunch of missing hardware (including the axle pinch bolts, :facepalm: yikes!!!)
- Repaired several cuts in the peripheral wiring harness for previously installed accessories (soldered and heat shrinked) including replacing missing plugs with stock connectors harvested from a donor harness
- Repaired the damaged side body panels (any used BMW must be dropped at least once on each side before selling apparently)
- Pulled air box and completely de-greased it to remove all the residual oil accumulation from the crank case breather
- Washed all body panels inside and out
- Generally washed, de-greased, and polished the whole bike back to looking near-new

It really turned out nice! Should be able to go 20k miles with just oil changes.
 

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You removed the powercommander????
I hope you are not going to regret that.....
Not in the least. Bike makes plenty of power without it and runs better. In my opinion, a PC is all well and good. But then you need a quality dyno tune to match or you risk doing more harm than good. I don't want those sorts of headaches.

Also ditched the K&N filters and re-fitted the intake snorkels. Runs great!
 

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That's where forums like this are so helpful. I've been wrenching on motorcycles for years and have enough experience to know that each brand has it's own quirks and 'gotchas'. I bought this 2008 K1200S a month ago and have been working on ever since. Even with my experience working on other bikes, would not have been able to accomplish all this without help from this forum.

- Removed Power Commander
- Installed new spark plugs
- Installed new ignition coils
- Installed new air filters and replaced the missing intake snorkels
- Flushed the coolant
- Replaced the spring hose clamps with nice stainless ones
- Cleaned out & de-greased radiator fins
- Changed oil / filter
- Complete service of the final drive
- Installed new tires
- Installed new battery
- Installed Wunderlich riser links (I'm 6'3")
- Installed shift shaft bearing upgrade
- Installed APE cam chain tensioner
- Installed new front brake pads
- Flushed brake fluid front & rear
- Replaced a bunch of missing hardware (including the axle pinch bolts, :facepalm: yikes!!!)
- Repaired several cuts in the peripheral wiring harness for previously installed accessories (soldered and heat shrinked) including replacing missing plugs with stock connectors harvested from a donor harness
- Repaired the damaged side body panels (any used BMW must be dropped at least once on each side before selling apparently)
- Pulled air box and completely de-greased it to remove all the residual oil accumulation from the crank case breather
- Washed all body panels inside and out
- Generally washed, de-greased, and polished the whole bike back to looking near-new

It really turned out nice! Should be able to go 20k miles with just oil changes.
With all the work you did on the bike its going to last forever :thumb:

Ride safe....
 

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Thanks Doug, the bikes been working out great, really a shame BMW doesn't make anything like this anymore.

I decided to skip the valve adjustment given the bulk of these bikes never need adjustment and this bike is running great.

I managed to pickup a Givi rack and Givi E41 Keyless side cases that I'll use for serious road trips, but will keep the BMW luggage on for commuting. I'm also thinking about adding a Cyclops tire pressure monitoring kit and some LED lights. In insights or experience with these would be appreciated.

One question about that clutch noise. I know that's just "a thing these bikes do" but wondering if it goes away with the Barnett clutch replacement / upgrade.
 

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Thanks Doug, the bikes been working out great, really a shame BMW doesn't make anything like this anymore.

I decided to skip the valve adjustment given the bulk of these bikes never need adjustment and this bike is running great.

I managed to pickup a Givi rack and Givi E41 Keyless side cases that I'll use for serious road trips, but will keep the BMW luggage on for commuting. I'm also thinking about adding a Cyclops tire pressure monitoring kit and some LED lights. In insights or experience with these would be appreciated.

One question about that clutch noise. I know that's just "a thing these bikes do" but wondering if it goes away with the Barnett clutch replacement / upgrade.
As for the Cyclops tire pressure monitoring kit, that's up to you. I like to manually check the tire pressure so I can also inspect the tires, make sure everything's tight and clean the rims.

I've been looking into LED's myself. I saw this link https://freetime.mikeconnelly.com/archives/38 and I E-Mailed Mike (nice guy) he gave me some pointers. I'm figuring out a cleaner looking configuration and better heat dissipation. I'll keep you posted.

As for the clutch I'm not sure if it goes away with the Barnett clutch replacement.

Enjoy your bike and ride safe :thumb:
 
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