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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All bike running engine wise ok after I had an issue with it cutting out whenever it felt like it. Narrowed it down to the ignition coil replaced it and no more issues. (50 euros cheap fix). Also the clutch leak fixed by garage lower cylinder and brake fluid replaced 700 euros so money well spent. I use the bike for long distances so it's great and comfy however I now have a strange noise coming from back /underneath the bike feels like I'm going over gravel and it's worse at higher speeds. I also noticed its doing it when it's warned up say after 15 to 20 min. Any ideas what it could be? The rear wheel don't have any play. I'm hoping this will be the last issue I will have on my k1200rs.

Thanks in advance
 

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2009 K1300S, 2017 S1000R
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Your Crown Gear Bearing is failing. (That gravel noise is a classic symptom)
33 12 1 242 211 GROOVED BALL BEARING - 85X120X18
There is a forum member that rebuilds the final drive properly. You can search and find more. Someone will chip in.
There are videos on how to change this yourself if your skilled but there is a very high chance of failure if you do not properly measure for the shim pack. Just putting back the original shims is not the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Beech for the info. Im in Frankfurt Germany not sure if the guy that rebuilds them is here or over the pond. I wonder if im looking at lots of money for this :(
 

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I think you are in a good location to get the job done. Plenty of shops familiar with the problem. The parts, seals and bearing will be about $200USD. Labor maybe 5 hours. If you take the final drive off and take it to the shop that would help. Good that you found it early and near home. Bummer that Oktober fest is canceled. Been to that party three times. Best is Sunday morning if you're an old fart like me.
 

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Definitely get it repaired in Germany as to ride it further is inviting disaster. When it lets go completely the collateral damage to the drive train can be significant. As for shimming it correctly, I am reasonably competent on the tools, but this task perplexed me. There is a lot more going on than simply correctly accessing the correct shim. The pinion gear also relies on this shim being correct to establish correct backlash drag. I spent so much time trying to sort it, spending cash on new shims and in the end just put the old shim back in. To have it shimmed correctly by a shop won’t come cheap either so you have a decision to make. I’m not for a moment saying don’t have it re shimmed, however bear in mind the cost (of a re shim) verses the life of the bearing with its original shim. I am on my second replacement bearing and this one has lasted significantly longer the the first replacement:
Oem bearing 60,000km
1st replacement 40,000km
2nd replacement 83,000km and counting.
While the bearings are made to close tolerances they are not perfect and this variation I believe contributes to variable life spans of crown wheel bearings. The cost of a new bearing is not huge in the scheme of things, but given the age of these old girls and the miles most of us do, I believe it is cheaper to simply replace the bearing myself as required every 7 or 8 years. To attempt a re shim and get it wrong could very well have dire consequences for the bike and your safety. Just my take on it, I don’t for a moment disagree with Beech and recommend every individual make their own decision.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So guys bikes in and looks like the bearing is fine but the driveshaft u joint isn't. Had to lay flat on the floor when told the cost but I really can't justify spending a grand on it. Will look for a used unit and they can fit it in and I think I will sell it and go back to jap bikes. Never ever had issues with Honda bikes like this one.
 

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I hear you loud and clear skyranger, I had a Kwaka 1300 back in ‘81. Put 100,000km’s on her and never ever touched the final drive. Don’t even remember replacing the oil in the FD either, but 40 years have past and my memory’s fading... BMW’s are a high maintenance mistress at the best of times and a right PITA at their worst. I have slowly but regularly drip fed maintenance dollars into mine over 18 years and have kept it at its peak of reliability, but still I expect to be caught eventually with items such as the ABS module and the final drive pinion. Given their poor value in today’s market I’d be wary buying one without extensive service history.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Kiwi I'm glad someone agrees with me. Got a call from the garage it's not the crown bearing and it's not the final drive shaft. They will investigate more on Tuesday and see what they can come up with but the guy said might be a noisy gearbox maybe. One thing I forgot to mention the rear suspension is some add on like gas which the previous owner installed cost a few coins not sure maybe that can be if it self adjust I don't know. Went and saw a pan European 1300 47km immaculate and just sat on it and it felt like a bike! Was sold in 15 min 😞
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good news bad news not sure!
Got a call from the garage they stripped the wheel bearing is good they took drive shaft out and all OK they couldn't find any defective parts. They test Rode on the motorways here in Germany and no issues. It has a Wilbers performance suspension on it put by previous owner but even that's ok. I guess I will ride it and maybe if there is anything wrong I'm sure it's not my imagination it will gradually get worse! I can't even say the noise is any lose plastic attached to the bike. All I done is add a top box but the noise was there before!
 

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In that case, I'd just ride it for a while and see if the noise gets worse/louder. If the noise stays the same, it's probably non-mechanical or normal for that bike. If it gets worse, then clearly it's a mechanical wear issue of some sort and you'll have to decide to fix or park the bike. I have a BMW R1200 gs with the liquid cooled engine now. It sounds like a box of rocks! Go read a GS forum...everybody complains about how bad the LC boxer engine sounds. Ha!
 
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