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Discussion Starter #1
The grips on my K1200RS are shot. The outside end has begun to break off on both grips (left and right). I have replacement grips (part of the IOU from buying the bike) but figure that they'll let go after a while, too. It occurred to me that bar ends might help support the grips. So far, the only possible choice seems to be a set of Throttlemeister ends - kinda spendy considering I already have a real cruise control. I suppose I could try buying two left ends from Throttlemeister. Or ask here about who else has added ends?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Bump - nobody has seen bar ends for KRS??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I replaced the (heated) grips today and had an unhappy realization: the wires for the heater run along the inside of the grip. Looks as though I'm stuck with buying two left Throttlemeister ends rigged for heated grips (they do make such a beast). Most any other after market end isn't going have a relief for the grip heater wiring. Doh!
 

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RBEmerson said:
I replaced the (heated) grips today and had an unhappy realization: the wires for the heater run along the inside of the grip. Looks as though I'm stuck with buying two left Throttlemeister ends rigged for heated grips (they do make such a beast). Most any other after market end isn't going have a relief for the grip heater wiring. Doh!
This is what I did:

http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=28400&highlight=heated+GRIPS

Still holding and look great. Just to add, I did buy a small $2 container of specialty grip glue for the throttle side to provide extra "stick".
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info. Another down-side to the stock grips with open ends: mud dauber wasps can build nests inside the handlebar tubes. I found the remains of two nests (and the late, and unlamented, occupants) when I changed the throttle-side grip, Feh! Another argument for something to close the tubes off.
 

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I would be interested in hearing how the TM two left side ends for heated grips work out. I have changed my handlebar mounts to the low ones. My throttle hand now picks up just enough buzz at 4100-4500 rpms to numb my fingers a little after 20 min. I like the position but not the buzz. By no means it is bad, just a little different with these different bar mounts I was wondering if something slightly weighted on the bar ends might change the frequency vibration that now occurs within that system..

Thanks
NCS
 

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Discussion Starter #7
FWIW, I used these bar ends on a Concours and they did a great job of dampening down some buzziness. I suspect, however, the ThrottleMeister ends won't do quite the same job. Now, if you know someone who can machine some stainless steel ends to fit the ThrottleMeister mounts... Anyway, I'll post whatever news develops on this project.

DISCLAIMER: I have no financial connection with Murphs Kits, et al., save as a customer. I'm not even a customer, yet, with ThrottleMeister.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I called ThrottleMeister and pulled the trigger on a pair of left ends with black weights. $75 plus shipping (USPS Priority). Fred,The ThrottleMeister, says they'll fit just fine with heated grips (they cut a relief in the mount to handle the heater's wires). I guess I'll know more sometime next week. I'll post photos when the job's done.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Mission accomplished. The installation of two left ends in the left and right handlebar ends is relatively simple. The left (clutch) side is, of course, the easier installation.

NOTE: Locate the heat wiring before cutting anything! (ignore this if your grips are unheated) Cut away the spider covering the opening at the end of the grip. An Xacto blade or something similar is the best tool - not a razor blade or box cutter - a relatively narrow but long blade is the best choice here. Remove one strut at a time, working carefully around the grip heater wiring (nick a wire and you're in very deep sauerkraut!). Throttlemeister's instructions seem to suggest cutting off the entire end of the grip but that's not needed on either end. Just open the grip end to about the diameter of the handlebar tube.

Follow the instructions with the grips to position the insert in place (and don't crimp or crush the wiring!). Run the hex screw in eight turns with a 3/32" hex driver (a short one is included but a longer T-handle driver is easier to use). There will be a lot of resistance as the screw cuts into the inside of the handlebar tube, Do not apply more than ten turns to the screw (or it'll come out the other end of the insert - Not A Good Thing). Run the end's mounting bolt through the end and slide on two thick washers (save the two shim washers for the throttle grip) - screw the bolt into the insert and check that the grip isn't crushed to the point of bulging.

If everything checks out, unscrew the bolt and slide the bar end out with the bolt, to keep the washers in place. Apply Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® (not supplied with the ends but you do have some anyway, right?) to the end of the bolt and attach the bar end to the insert.

The right or throttle side is a little harder to work with because it's imperative to keep the throttle free from any drag. Begin as with the left grip: locate the heater wiring, and cut away the spider as with the left grip.

Following the drawing in the instructions, locate the cutout in the insert so that the heater wiring can move freely as the throttle grip is turned from closed to full open. A little experimentation will be needed to get the position right but a bright flashlight on the work area should show where the wires and insert meet as the grip moves.

With the insert properly located, apply eight turns to the 3/32" hex screw as before. The next step is to shim the inside end of the bar end so it doesn't bind or rub on the throttle grip. Throttlemeister recommends a clearance of about the thickness of a credit card between the grip end and the inside of the bar end. Use a combination of the two remaining thick washers and two shim washers to get this thickness. Be very, very sure the throttle grip can turn freely when released! A stuck, open throttle could ruin your whole day. Screw the bar end bolt down tightly and check that the grip can still move freely. Once the proper clearance is achieved, back out the bolt, apply Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® to the end of the bolt and tighten it up.

That's it - job done.
 

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NCStephen said:
I would be interested in hearing how the TM two left side ends for heated grips work out. I have changed my handlebar mounts to the low ones. My throttle hand now picks up just enough buzz at 4100-4500 rpms to numb my fingers a little after 20 min. I like the position but not the buzz. By no means it is bad, just a little different with these different bar mounts I was wondering if something slightly weighted on the bar ends might change the frequency vibration that now occurs within that system..

Thanks
NCS
The buzz is due to lack of 'decoupling' (rubber absorber etc) between the bars and frame. Adding risers or lowerers changes the geometry and seems to make it worse.

I added lead shot to the cases of my ABS oval mirrors which gave the required damping effect for both the mirrors and the bars. I've got my throttle springs relaxed but I would also like to try some aftermarket gel grips.



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Discussion Starter #12
TM weight pix

Here are two images to show the finished job. The first shows how the bars look with weights on either end.



This is a look at the throttle grip with a non-operational Throttlemeister weight mounted.



The weights seem to be damping out some slight buzz. Maybe not. It's difficult to do a test to confirm whether they really make any difference or it's just wishful thinking... "OK, we'll blindfold you so you can't tell if the weights are on while you ride." :teeth
 

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voxmagna said:
The buzz is due to lack of 'decoupling' (rubber absorber etc) between the bars and frame. Adding risers or lowerers changes the geometry and seems to make it worse.

I added lead shot to the cases of my ABS oval mirrors which gave the required damping effect for both the mirrors and the bars. I've got my throttle springs relaxed but I would also like to try some aftermarket gel grips.
I put Grip Puppies on my Kaw and on my RS. I am very happy with them. $9 to your door is hard to beat. Saves wear and tear on the pricey OEMs and helps with the vibes..
 
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