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Have a 2006 k1200gt. Turn ignition key o., nothing, battery fully charged, (only a year old). Tried to jump start, to check the battery, still nothing. So not battery, were can I get a wiring diagram from,? It's obviously stopping power getting through, could it be a main relay? Bike has 77k kilometers,
Any help be appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Only get lights on dash in aux position then only for 1or 2 seconds then turns off, nothing with key in on position
 

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Key ring

Not sure but I think there is a ring in the ignition switch that goes bad some times. Had an 08 K1200S that it happened to it if my memory is correct
 

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Diagnostic tool (GS-911) is a good try. I saw a video on this product that allowed them to clear the fault code. Bike started after it was cleared. The bike got a fault (surge) in the fuel pump so the computer blocked further action. It just had to be cleared.

So short of purchasing a tool we likely won't use again, see if a dealer can run the diagnostics on the bike.

Second suggestion to disconnect the battery, might clear the code also. Leave it disconnected for several minutes.

That is the direction I would try. Good Luck and report back on your progress.
 

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Thanks every one, will try as suggested
I don't currently own a K-bike. I used to work as a mechanic in a BMW shop but I did more work on the old stuff. Trouble shooting is the same all round. First, you are going to need a schematic and be able to read it. Failing that you are just grasping at straws. You are assuming that you have a hot battery. I wouldn't be so sure. What you describe is exactly how a dead battery would act. The load on the ignition side is higher than the load on the aux side where there might be just enough juice to light the dash lights. A shorted battery can play all kinds of hell. Get it tested. Assume nothing. I have had new batteries service out bad. Next check fuses. Check fuses both visually and with an Ohm meter or test tight. A test light is your best friend. You can chaise down a circuit in second with a test light probe. I didn't do a lot of BMW work but I did go to one of their electronics school. After all was said and done the tech said "most of you problems will come from corroded connections" and he was not wrong. As you work your way from the known good battery to the switch check the continuity and voltage at each junction point. Corrosion acts like a resistor and makes life a living hell down the line. Everything wants +12v to work properly. Also check your ground. I have had BMWs show screwy problems when the ground strap is either not tight or dirty. Good luck.
 

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Your gremlin came to my house. Bike won't start. 2003 K1200GT 26k miles

I changed the fuel and air filter this week. I had it running several times this week checking leaks, etc and it was running with out panels naked.

I put the panels back on and it started and ran for about 3 mins. Then sputtered and shut off. I figured low/out of fuel since I had just a small amount in and the yellow low fuel light was on anyway.

I filled the tank to 1/4 on the gas gauge. About 2 gallons premium. It won't start. I smell some fuel out the exhaust. Low fuel light is off now with all the gas in the tank.

Waited another couple hours. Still won't start. I hear the fuel pressurize and no warning lights. Just cranks. I guess I will try the battery disconnect tomorrow. Worst case, find that diagnostic tool. :sad
 

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My fuel filter change failed on my 2003 K1200GT.

After a few minutes of warm up, the bike shutdown. Eventually I tracked it down to the first picture showing the connection I made the other day had slipped and came off. No fuel, no start, no ride.

Second picture is my reattached hose reversing the clamp. Third picture was the original fix I made. It just wasn't far enough down the metal tube.

I had to bend the rubber tube down another quarter inch to grab more tube. The bend doesn't match the preformed shape, which is not a good idea, but I had to do it. I don't think it pinched excessively but an uncomfortable feeling putting stress on something that doesn't need to.

It would have been nicer for BMW to supply another half inch of tube for this $49 little J hose. Just warning the next guy. I can see why folks use a Napa rubber hose instead.

Oh, I ordered a GS-911 tool to figure out why the bike won't start. All the battery disconnect to reset code, etc talk was not the solution to my individual problem. Anyway, bike running now.

Time to ride the wind.
 

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I didn't need the GS-911 tool for this problem but I bought one anyway for future problems. Pricey at $399 (I got a used one for $350) but having the dealer come down and pick up the bike, or rent a trailer to take it in for those guys to run the same code scan was the offset.

A very nice tool to check on all the switches and controls of the bike. It tells you if the side stand is up or down. Kill switch is Run or Stop. Gear in Neutral. Pretty much resolves those possible problems. It shows all electrical indicators on your bike.

The autoscan looks for any faults and allows you to clear them. Gives a count on how often and if a current problem.
 

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Having same problem on 06 K1200GT- put in new YUASA battery. It started fine and rode for about 30 mins. Next day, started bike then it stalled. After that, turn key and nothing. No lights on dash or any indicators. nothing. Any ideas?
 

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in the past YUASA batteries had reputation of failing under starter load, or just failing riding down the road. They were supposed to have corrected it. Cells plates were too close together and would warp under load and short out internally. Sometimes they wrapped but wouldn't short until the vibration from ridding caused them to touch.

I would pull the battery and get load checked, my guess is it is a bad battery
 
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