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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How many of you out there find that your KRS tracks to the right? Mine does, and I've heard others say the same. Are there opinions on what causes that and if it can be eliminated?
 

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search the archive

If you search the archive database, you may find the answer you are looking for.

ONON-
Mark
 

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sounds like you may have to get bar weights i dont know if its just that problem but mine k1200gt just a little press on one side or the other is all it takes can almost blow on them and it makes it track....have your tires checked for tracking and tire press checked..
 

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Me too

Mine has always pulled too. I wonder if there is a solid fix myself? It gets old to have to keep pushing against the grip to correct the steer.
 

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Pulls

Yeah, this was a concern of mine after I bought mine last april. It had Pilot Sports on, with only a few thousand left on them. I went to Pilot Roads and it was still there a bit. Went to Continental Road Attack and now the problem is gone. So my short experience with this bike tells me, the more the tire is worn the more it pulls. These results are with taking natural road crown pulling into account.
 

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Like Mark said...

There MUST be plenty of posts on this in the archives. It's certainly been an often enough talked about subject. When I had my '01 RT, it was talked about so much on the boards that we shortened it up to PTTR (pulls to the right). It was the primary reason I gave up my RT and went to the RS.

I haven't seen nearly so much talk on the KRS boards about it, but apparently there are bikes which are afflicted. One cause seemed to be from an owner installing a 5.5 inch rear wheel on a bike which came from the factory with a 5.0 inch rim. Another cause seemed to be from changing the tire brand from one to another.

I don't remember that there were any other significant reasons discovered, but there may be, and you're better advised to do a search of the archives...
 

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Pttr

chuckwilmot said:
One cause seemed to be from an owner installing a 5.5 inch rear wheel on a bike which came from the factory with a 5.0 inch rim.
Good point Chuck. I failed to mention that my bike does have a 5.5 rear. Let's say the 5.5 does make it pull......why?
 

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5.5 inch rim

Hi Jim,

I'm WAAAY not the expert here.

But here it is as I understand it. About 2003, BMW started making the RS into the GT. Some of the early GT's had the (up to then) standard 5.0" rims, while some of the bikes came out of Germany with (the new) 5.5" rims. There were new owners who got dealers to change out their rims for the new ones, and there were owners who were unsuccessful at that (or never tried). The wider tire offsets the contact patch, so accordingly, a different width spacer between the wheel and the frame is necessary. If the offset is not corrected, there's a pull to the right and sometimes an instability at higher speeds. I've heard of owners trying different spacers and correcting the problem, and then again, I've heard stories of owners who tried everything and never got any result at all. In my own experience with my RT, I pulled out the spacer and it corrected most, but not all, of the problem, and the RT's didn't go through a rim change at all!

Anyway, that's the way I heard it. Did I say I was NOT an expert at this? I wouldn't argue if someone posted after me and said I was full o' crap. Mark advised checking the archives, and in my humble opinion, that's still the best advice.
 

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I've taken my spacer out (twice). Both are 2mm, and the bike pulls far less to the right than with the spacer. At least, that's my perception.

The second one was installed when they replaced the pinion seal on the rear drive. Didn't realize it until I replaced the tire, and discovered it when I pulled the wheel off. "Feels" like it's almost non-existant, as shifting my weight ever so slightly to the left straightens things out pretty much (with hands off the bars). Well, not off the bars, but hovering just above them. Too chicken...



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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
FYI, the archives pretty much say take the spacers out to solve the pulling problem. That's what I plan to do, but won't be able to do it until spring when bike comes out of storage. I will let you guys know if that fixes my pull in my case...hopefully! And thanks for all the responses, as always. John
 

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My 2004KGT pulls hard to the right. I searched the archives about how to check alignment (front to back, side to side, etc.) but didn't find anything. Perhaps I didn't know where to look. Any advice on how to check this out? Do I need to go to a specialty shop? Also, is there ( I hope ) some possibility of making adjustment to alleviate this symptom. The word you get from dealers is "they all do that". Well, seems unacceptable for an $18,000 dollar machine to not track true. If that is so, then BMW should let you know when you buy it! I suspect factory assembly issues or quality control.Wonder if anyone has taken them to task for this flaw. Comments appreciated. Cheers.
 

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Thanks for trying to help. I have already read that strand and it doesn't answer my questions, just gives me more. I'll keep looking. I appreciate your help. Cheers.
 

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voxmagna said:
Try looking on page 46.29 of the BMW service manual. Bet you didn't know it was there! Some calculations to look at as well.

Can someone elaborate what is one this page of the manual? I'd like to find out more about this problem. I don't have the factory book and Clymer is not sending them out yet.
 

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Creative Solution

Ok bluestreak, so I sent you some info about the shop method for checking front/rear wheel alignment and measuring the 'Wheel Track Offset' to determine if it is in or out of factory tolerance. They are trying to measure the offset distance between the front and rear wheel rim centres but from the rim edges with front and rear having different rim widths and needing to get the steering set so both rims are parallel.

Basically they use a BMW part which normally would have been a long straight edge with four right angle slidey pieces with points on the end. The idea is to set the rear points to some equal depth on the bar using only the rim edges. You have to make sure both rims run true first! Working on one side of the bike, align and touch the points with the rear first, then turn the front forks until the 2 front sliding pointers line up on the front rim and are of equal depth (BUT not the same as the rear due to different rim sizes). Then now knowing both wheel rims are parallel, they just do a bit of simple calculation to derive the distance to the rim centre for each wheel. The difference they call 'Wheel Track Offset' They talk about using rulers, so this isn't even vernier gage stuff. The actual BMW 'straight edge' is made with a rectangular shape to clear obstructions around the stand/muffler area.

Now here's an alternative method I just invented but not tried:

Get yourself a ruler that is white and borrow your son or grandsons laser pointer. You could use a laser building level if you have one. Working on the right side only, as it seems clearer of obstructions, tape the laser pointer to something solid at about the right height to get across both rim edges at their widest points and say 3 feet back from the front or rear, preferably aligning it with both front and rear axle centers. Move the laser line out until it clears the biggest obstruction (body plastic probably).

Using a steel tape (preferably white) turn the laser beam in and out to measure the same distance to the rim edge either side of the rear axle. Next, move to the front, turning and locking the steering when both rim edges are the same distance from the laser line.

Working with a Tee square and spirit level it should be possible to set up a laser line which is parallel with both front and rear rim pairs the same distance from the line, ie the steering is set so wheels are parallel, then to measure front/rear rim distances and work out the centre deviation. The tee square and level are needed so you know your ruler depth measurements are at right angles in 2 planes to the laser line. Of course if you splash out on 5 laser pointers, you could setup something looking like it came out of The Matrix!

If you want to do this for 5 Cents and take more time, you could use a length of string and a pair of your cage transmission stands.

Since I don't have an alignment issue, I can't justify time proving the method - I'll leave that to bluestreak and fastjohny to report back!



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Thanks for all of your help. I don't have a service manual either, but will get one. Will let you know when I have any updated info. If it is determined to be out of alignment, what kind of solution is possible? Would it involve a frame adjustment? Wondering.I am hoping to get some kind of satisfaction from my dealer. Special thanks for that creative solution!
 

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Offset to the right??

Interesting that the article refers to the offset as being to the right. I always thought the offset was to the left, and by removing the spacer, we were taking out the offset.
 
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