BMW K1200, K1300, and K1600 Forum banner

Bike won't start--what should I try next?

4K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  Beech 
#1 · (Edited)
I made the mistake of letting my 2016 K1300S sit for a year without fuel stabilizer. I know better, but life was complicated and I just forgot. It has been in a climate-controlled garage and has only 2k miles. Unfortunately, my mechanic has a one-month backlog right now.

I've tried the following:
1. Replaced the battery with a new lithium one. Confirmed that it is cranking 11.27v.
2. Siphoned out the gas and replaced it with a full tank and a dose of Stabil. No change after 48 hours.
3. Thought about trying to read the error codes, but changed my mind when I saw the price for a GS911.
4. Made a video of trying to start the bike:
Startup Video

I don't have much wrenching experience, but I'm not afraid to learn. From what I've seen on the forums, a bad fuel pump could be the culprit, but I don't know how to test this possibility without just replacing it. I'd welcome any suggestions from the resident experts on what to try next.

Thanks!
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Have you checked all the little stuff like kickstand up, in neutral kill switch off. Not owning a GS-911 leaves you to the mercy of the world. The bike is too complicated to just guess. You can jumper the fuel pump to see if it works. Take a look at this information for that procedure:
There is no filter on this pump, only a strainer sock. You are correct in thinking maybe the pump is gummed up and not able to function. I have heard of alternating the polarity on the pump to break it loose but I have not tried this or heard it commonly. Be careful of your quick connects to the fuel tank. Very fragile. And if you remove a hose, hold the clip in all the way while removing or installing. That oring needs a tiny bit of grease going back in.
 
#6 ·
I'm assuming you've checked all the simple stuff like Beech suggested first. Usually if it's a side stand or neutral safety switch the bike won't even crank over. Also, based on the newness of the bike, low miles, and good storage conditions, I"d say you've almost certainly got a fueling problem. It's certainly true that electric fuel pumps like the one in your K1300S are very susceptible to failure from lack of use, especially if you failed to treat your fuel. Electric fuel pumps are one part of the bike that doesn't like to sit idle for long periods of time. I recently bought a 2013 K1600GT with 6400 miles on it and in the service records I could see that the fuel pump had already been replaced once.

Also possible is that the injectors have become clogged with bad fuel, which can turn to a jelly like mixture when it sits for too long. You would think that a fuel pump would be able to flush that out but it doesn't always work depending on the amount of bad fuel in the lines / injectors.

Sad to say, you're going to need a real mechanic for this. If you had a GS 911 you could cycle the fuel pump with the tool to see if it's working or not. But you'd still need to pull the tank and replace the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is working and achieving proper pressure, then the injectors will need to be pulled off the fuel rail and cleaned professionally. They usually flow bench them at the same time to ensure uniform fuel flow rate and spray pattern. On re-install of the injectors you'd need to reset calibrations / adaptations for the ECU (with a GS 911).

This would be a lot to bite off if you have little mechanic experience. I suggest you get the bike into your trusted mechanic ASAP and preserve as much riding time as possible.
 
#8 ·
All good suggestions. Euromotoelectric may have a good deal on a new fuel pump. I have removed the injectors for cleaning at Mr. Injector of Idaho. I think that job is more difficult than doing the valve adjustment. More things can go wrong if your not careful. SeaFoam is your friend. I like it better than Techron Plus. But both will help.
 
#9 ·
I appreciate all the great advice. While I'm waiting for my mechanic appointment, I'm going to order a GS-911 and try to cycle the fuel pump as @jkaiser suggested. I'm 95% sure I can handle the fuel pump replacement if it comes to that, but the injectors are probably beyond my skills. I'll update the thread with any progress. Thanks!
 
#10 ·
Good work, this forum can help you through the fuel pump repair if it comes to that. You'll find the GS-911 tool useful for quite a bit more if you start delving into servicing the bike yourself.

If you do need to replace the fuel pump, there are less expensive options to buying the complete pump from BMW. The actual motor itself is quite replaceable through third party suppliers vs. buying the complete assembly from BMW.
 
#12 ·
Might be making progress. The GS-911 shows only one persistent fault code: "10443 Fuse activated for electric Fuel-pump." Does anyone know if the fuel pump fuse is separately replaceable or should I go ahead and replace the fuel pump itself? Thanks for the guidance, all.
 
#13 ·
It is an electronic circuit block triggered by a set value for what it is protecting. It is not a physical fuse. Can you go to real time functions and turn on the fuel pump. I can't remember if it is on the list of things you can check. The overload may have occured because of a jammed pump. It also may be an old code not cleared. (the bike has no fuses of the type you can replace)
 
#14 ·
When I turn on the fuel pump from the real time functions, there is no sound or change in the bike. Also, I cleared the error code for the fuel pump fuse, but when I tried to start the bike again, the error code came back.

Assuming this means I should try replacing the fuel pump, I've read about the quick disconnects being fragile on these bikes--does anyone know if that was still true by 2016? Should I plan to replace them while I'm doing the fuel pump?
 
#15 ·
If you're careful and pull the quick connect straight out while keeping the release plunger pushed in you will be okay. Same going in. Keep the plunger pushed in while inserting and make sure it clicks in place when bottomed out for the plunger to be fully seated and locked. The plunger can nick the seal oring if you don't keep it pushed in. Sure sounds like a new pump is in order. Did you try the 12 volts to the pump controller? Does it show any signs of corrosion? Here is a photo of one in bad shape. Water gets into the electronics and shorts things out.
27399
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top