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Finished the brake bleed today. Did the circuits from the module to the calipers. The servo worked just fine. Installed new pads on the rear. Finished up by installing a metal quick change nipple replacing the plastic one at the gas tank outlet.
Winter work is all done! Come on spring!:)
Hi Du907,

I'm going to be bleeding the brakes on my 06 K1200s. I'm just waiting on the fluid funnel from BeamerBoneyard to get here.

What instructions are you using to do this brake bleed? I cant find a good detailed DIY anywhere for servo ABS brake flush.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I have a great pdf on my computer at home. I'll load it up tonight when I get home.

Basically, push the caliper pistons back flush, I used a piece of wood, door wedges that you can get at Lowes or Home Depot and made blocks to keep the pistons spaced away from the rotors.
This is so you can get all the old brake fluid out of the calipers. There are youtube videos on how to do it. Some say bleed the circuits from the reservoirs on the handle bars and at the back brake to the 6 nipples on the servo first, then the wheel circuits, some say the other way around. I did the reservoirs 6 nipples first. Each time, you do first nipple, second nipple, third nipple, then do first nipple again. Then repeat for the next circuit. Ignition is not on when doing the 6 bleed screws, it's the old fashion way, by pulling the lever or pedal.

Screw your funnel in and put brake fluid in like you are pouring beer into a glass to keep bubbles out. If you get bubbles, let it sit or press the bubbles out. Fill the funnel up just over the imprinted pattern on the funnel. Do the front left caliper first. Crack the bleed screw then close it back to loosen it up. Put you hose on the bleed screw, turn the ignition on, wait for the servo pump whirl, then at the same time crack the bleed screw open and slightly pull the brake lever and you should hear the servo pump start. The more you open the bleed screw the faster the funnel will drain. Remember you are using the servo motor to pump the fluid from the funnel through the brake lines and out at the caliper thus replacing the old fluid with new fluid. I run the whole funnel amount down until it gets to just the tubular part of the funnel then shut the bleed screw and let go of the lever. Turn ignition off. Fill the funnel again and repeat. Then go do the other front side. Just don't pump all the fluid out of the funnel. Close the bleed screw before the funnel runs out of fluid. Put a lot of towels or other to soak up the fluid when you unscrew the funnel. Move to the rear brake. You need to be on the left side of the bike and reach over and do the foot lever with your hand while you do the rear brake bleed screw. I run two funnel fulls of fluid through to get clear brake fluid. Again rags or whatever to soak up the fluid when you take the funnel out. You will then need to use a syringe to remove the fluid out of the servo motors reservoirs to get down to the bar indicator level, it's harder than you think to see it.
Put the caps back on and wash/flush the spilled brake fluid off and around the servo motor and calipers. Brake fluid will eat paint.
 

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Hi Du907,

I'm going to be bleeding the brakes on my 06 K1200s. I'm just waiting on the fluid funnel from BeamerBoneyard to get here.

What instructions are you using to do this brake bleed? I cant find a good detailed DIY anywhere for servo ABS brake flush.
Buy the service dvd, instructions are about 12 pages......
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Besides what I wrote above; I think it was useful to label the 6 nipples like the guide said. I used a felt tip marker. It helped to keep things sorted. Use good clear plastic tubing, makes it easier to tell the difference between old a new fluid. There is a super absorbent media that can be used to pack around the reservoirs to catch the fluid when removing the funnel. Maybe someone on here can tell you what that stuff is. Washing everything off when you finish is very important. That's about it for me.
Good luck.
 

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Well, with the help of my dad and this forum I was able to bleed the brakes on my 06 k1200s. But doing so I ran into a few problems.

First problem:
The bleed screws on the servo leak from around the threads when they are tightened. I took out the bleed screws and cleaned out the port with a q-tip to remove any dirt. There is a wear ring around the cone of the bleed screw where I believe is the issue. All 6 of the bleed screws leak. See picture.
28341

I ran to NAPA and picked up some M7x1.0 bleed screws, tighten them down and no leaks. Problem fixed.

Second Problem:
I'm having intermittent issues with the ABS "whine" staying on after I let off the front brake lever. I tried adjusting the switch with no luck. Maybe the switch is going out? It's about a $40 part on MaxBMW. A few times while the ABS is whirring, I'd quickly loosen the switch click on/off and the pump would still whine. Power off the bike, close the circuit on the switch, turn it on, and the ABS would do test whine no problem. A few times I would turn on the bike and it would not do the test ABS whine. Pulled the switch out, click it a few times, turn it off and on, and it would work.

Third Problem:
After completing the brake bleed and before figuring out the bleed screws were leaking from the threads. I noticed if I get on the rear brake really hard (not locking up the rear), I feel a clunk from what feels like it's coming from the driveline or the transmission as I come to a stop. Last year I installed my rebuilt transmission from R&D Motorsports, I don't remember having this issue last year. Could it be driveline slop binding when I get on the rear brakes hard?

LOL help me get this bike healthy and this ride back on the road. Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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Read fault codes, impossible to fix it without knowing what part to look at as i seems to intermittent.
 

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Read fault codes, impossible to fix it without knowing what part to look at as i seems to intermittent.
Hi Mattias,

I ordered a OBDLink LX scanner and adapter from amazon. I'll try the motoscan tool when the other parts arrive to read codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Hi Mattias,

I ordered a OBDLink LX scanner and adapter from amazon. I'll try the motoscan tool when the other parts arrive to read codes.
After the brake bleed screws fix, it sounds like switch adjustment or the switch it shelf. Also check around the switch for dirt/gunk that could cause the switch to hang up. Remove the lever and clean the pivot area and lube slightly. I have aftermarket brake/clutch levers so I can adjust exactly lever positions. My local shop just adjusted my switch and everything is good. Testing the switch's overall operation is not that hard with a ohm meter. You can also use a ohm meter to aid in the adjustment of the switch. The switches are normally closed at rest ( I believe that's right). See that pdf I posted on page 16 about switch adjustments.
 
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