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This is alarming.

Y'all were way too fast to dismiss OP. At this point I'm tempted to wrap my clutch cover in kevlar.

Izzy please post as much information as possible. Could you also take extremely detailed pictures of the outer clutch basket that exploded? I'm talking forensic levels of detail. Don't hold back, take pictures of everything, including where the clutch disks ride (which it doesn't look like the failure point is).

This might be recall-worthy for BMW Motorcycles NA.
I absolutely would, but it’s in pieces all over the road. I coasted about a mile trying to figure out what happened(and make it to the next exit). What’s in the pictures is all that’s left, only a couple tiny fragments were stuck to the inside of the cover, the rest is history.

I parked the bike, still idling, and did a complete walk around before I saw what happened. Until then, I had absolutely no clue why I had a great-running engine and 6 neutrals with a perfect clutch pull.
 

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I absolutely would, but it’s in pieces all over the road. I coasted about a mile trying to figure out what happened(and make it to the next exit). What’s in the pictures is all that’s left, only a couple tiny fragments were stuck to the inside of the cover, the rest is history.

I parked the bike, still idling, and did a complete walk around before I saw what happened. Until then, I had absolutely no clue why I had a great-running engine and 6 neutrals with a perfect clutch pull.
Thank you for posting and letting everyone know. Yours is the 3rd worldwide report in this thread of the same failure. I'm surprised more failures haven't been posted.

Please give us more details. Don't leave anything out, we're not here to judge. I do 1st gear wheelies on occasion, I tried a highway speed wheelie but the bike really didn't like that. It doesn't matter if you were clutch dumping, launching, wheelying or any of that.

What year is your bike? Type of oil? Bike cold, hot? You said 10.5k revs in 2nd gear? You said the barnett clutch was absolutely installed correctly, who did the installation? What type of oil was in the bike? Any chance it was low? How long have you had the bike? Weather conditions? Any chance the outer clutch basket wasn't original?

Moto Vasya 21 said here
The third case. There was another one in Russia. The cause of the wrong repair basket
Can you provide even more higher resolution pictures... In the 3rd picture you posted, I can see some nicks on what I believe is the lagging edge of the clutch disk grabber things (no clue what the word is). You can see the same thing in OP's pictures.

This type of failure is disconcerting and people should be concerned.[/quote]
 

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It’s a 2009 K1330S, purchased with 9,000 miles. I replaced the clutch and ensured it was assembled and lubed correctly during installation and again after the basket came apart. It had never been touched before I got it, and the same was true of my last 2009 K1300S. None of the oil passages had been modified, bone stock. Never any clacking, chatter, or the host of bullshit issues some other folks chase for months.

The oil was Liqui-Moly 5W-40 and it was full with Mahle filter. Seriously, no wheelies or hard launches by me. I run it to 10-11k multiple times a day(commuting and weekend mountain fun), always use the quick shifter, and don’t hold it at high-RPM for any length of time or load it hard before it’s fully warm.

The coolant and oil were completely warm, 75 degree day, just midway through a 20 mile commute. The hottest it’s ever been is idling in traffic until the fam comes on for a minute.

In summation, I ride it as intended and am careful not to cause shock loads and premature wear. The only time it’s tapped the RPM limiter was when the basket let go. I’m in Colorado too, so it makes 140 or less horsepower at the crank, not stressed at all. I’ll get some pictures in the next couple days. I see the carbon marks on the inner hub, but it’s not grooved and nothing in the pictures has been wiped or cleaned.
 

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It was a Barnett clutch, same as the one I installed in my first K1300. I checked the inner drive hub and all the clutch parts, everything was the latest/best piece for oiling and centering everything, anti-judder spring installed properly, etc.

I put in the used clutch assembly I ordered(last in the World for now) an hour ago, and everything works great, just as it was before. No vibration, clutch feels really good, it all went back together easy. If anyone wants what’s left of the exploded outer basket(and only the basket), I’ll ship it you, just send me your address.
 

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I might be interested. I could take it to a professor at the local university who could determine if it's metal fatigue or what.
 

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Ah, you must be a retired BMW engineer who designed the K1300 and validated it through months of continuous dyno testing. Thank you for sharing your feelings here.

Edit: To be clear, I am saying that all manufacturers(including BMW) do extensive validation to ensure the vehicles can withstand continuous and extended high load/RPM within the designated operating range. What you "think" does not apply to this discussion. The failure occurred well within the factory operating parameters of a stock motorcycle. it's fixed now, and I simply wanted to share my experience, but I'm certainly not going to field criticism from a bunch of pedantic crabasses who occasionally take a "spirited" ride or "fetter" with stuff.

I'm happy to have a discussion with anyone else who understands the above and is genuinely curious what could have happened.
 

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It should be able to sustain its top speed.
Yes, in 6th gear. I dont recall the operating instructions saying that you have to hit the rev limiter in each gear and run at max rpm all day long.

glad the OP has got it fixed, failures happen unfortunately. No criticism intended, was just an observation on what you reported.
 

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It has been long established in the automotive and related industries that the max safe rpm for an engine as indicated by the redline on the tachometer must be able to be sustained indefinitely or they are on the hook for a new engine even if it it out of warranty as the user was lied to. That’s why rev limiters and fuel cutoff exist. So Fried is not only correct, he is totally reasonable in his assertion that the bike should be able to sustain max rpm for extensive periods of time. You don’t have to do as he does, but I’ve never had a motorcycle engine or clutch fail due to extended max rpm usage. I had a 1997 Honda VFR750 that literally spent 280+ miles at full throttle above the redline at 12,000+ ft elevation. It was down 50% on power and didn’t want to run below 7000 rpms. I spent all day trying to get into third gear and only managed twice for a few brief seconds. If rpms dropped belo 8000, I downshifted. Redline was 11,500 and revlimiter was at 12,500. Much of the time I was near or on the rev limiter. Bike had 45,000 miles on it and I retired it when it hit 114,000 miles. The engine was still strong as new, never had to change a valve shim, but the rest of the bike was worn out and it was my sole transportation. So I bought another one used with low miles and kept that for parts. Had a 2001 Triumph Sprint ST 955i that I rode almost as hard until I got the K1300S. I’ve found that bikes and cars that are used hard but maintained well last longest. Engines that are babied and short tripped have the most problems.


my point is use it hard, but keep it within the limits (below redline) and do your maintenance religiously and meticulously and you should have no problems. The issue with the clutches exploding both occurred after a clutch replacement. So I don’t think there is an issue other than an assembly error or an isswith the parts used.
 
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