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Discussion Starter #1
Would anybody know how to "re-code" the cylinder locks on BMW luggage so that they work with the ignition key? If it makes any difference I am trying to rekey the saddlbags on my K1200R. I know that the dealer usually does this but I bought the bike out-of-town (no local dealer) and I will not be able to go back there anytime soon.

Thanks in advance,
Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the link, Brent. Those instructions seem to be for the normal style key (ridges on the outer edge). Do you know if the instructions are also valid for the new style key which has smooth outer edges and inset ridges?

Thanks again,
Greg
 

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Well I was able to remove the lock barrel and it appears to function similarly to "normal" key lock barrels but I don't see how to remove the wafers. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

-Greg
 

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Greg,

I keyed my new locks for my K1200s luggage. Understand that I was willing to buy another set of unmatched locks and send them to a locksmith if needed so I went nuts. The unmatched were ~28 bucks and the matched were over 100 so I though I had a few swings at the plate :) .

First, I put my ignition key in the lock. Then I filed the tumblers flat. This step was a little tricky because some have to be held on the opposite side or the file just pushes them down but does not remove metal.

When this is complete insert and remove the key multiple times to make sure it will work and will not stick. Mine was very sticky. This is dependant on how much material you have to remove from the tumblers. I found that one of my tumblers was drastically reduced and would hang up on the outer edge of the cylinder.

Next I used needle nose pliers to "tug" on the tumbler and it came right out. None of the others would move. I did this on the matching set and the same thing happened.

I cleaned all the shaving impregnated grease off the cylinder and regreased and installed them in the bag.

Life is good.

BUT: One of the tumblers is not there from a security point of view (I dont view this as a big deal, but a locksmith would give you a better result).

My projects are usually more detailed but this was very experimental, and I was not expecting success. I also do not know how to get the cylinder back out so I guess I'm done.

Good luck,
 

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Discussion Starter #6
El_Barto,
Thanks for the direction. I have still been unable to remove the wafers and see your solution as the only one available at the moment. Looks like the dremel tool is going to see a little action.

Thanks again,
Greg
 

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Greg,

I couldn't find any way to take the wafers out either. They only come out if you have to file off a great deal of the wafer. You can also make the necessary adjustments very easily with only a file. A dremel may be a little intense for the fine work you will need to perform.

If you run into any problems let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
El Barto,
After contacting a couple of dealers, I've found that filing the wafers is the method that they use. I didn't have any small files but I did have a number of small dremel bits that worked very well although I believe that your suggestion on using files would have been more appropriate.
The filing was actually the easy part. Getting the lock barrels out of the cases was a little more of a chore. Oh well, at least it's done and working.

Thanks again for the advice,
Greg
 

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Papilio,
You are correct. Unfortunately, I have no local dealer and I am not going to have time to return to the dealer in Austin until mid-May. Thanks for the suggestion though.

-Greg
 

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Greg,

How do the locksets come out of the bag? I hate to think I will ever have to do it, but would like to know how you did it. As far as will your dealer do it..... I'm sure he would have. It would have only cost me about 200 more. He also kept talking about buying the locks already keyed which would have got me to 300 more. Nice work if you can get it :) .
 

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I just had the lock for my topcase on the new GT keyed for my ignition key. There are two choices -- 1) order the lock keyed for your key from Germany, or 2) the quick and dirty way:

1. Get new lock, remove key that came with it. Make sure you test fit several locks with your key to make sure it pushes all the blades out.
2. Insert your key and leave it there.
3. Find bench grinder and grind down all the blades that are sticking out of the lock
4. Test your key and grind any excess from the blades that might be sticking out
5. Install your lock

Now, if the lock is already installed in your bag, you are S.O.L. and will need to have it drilled out and start from step 1.

NOTE: This only works with the new style keys. With the old style keys, you could remove the lock and install the proper blades to make your key work.
 

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Keyed locks

Guys, maybe my info is wrong but I rekeyed my side bags and topcase for my 05 R12GS, new style rectangular flat blade key, the other day and used the same procedure as on other case locksets. Blades came out the same way too. Once you get the hang of it, it shouldn't take but 10-15 minutes per bag.

In other words... go to the page that Brent B posted and follow the same procedure.

http://www.pbase.com/rodneff/keying_bmw_locks

ALso,
try your local locksmith, he probably has a wafer kit for auto locks that are similar... older Porsche, Audi and maybe BMW's too.

Auto
 

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:ricky :ricky I just did mine in a matter of minutes and could not believe that someone would charge to do it! Hell, as easy as it was, I can not imagine taking the time to drive the 1 mile to my local dealer to have him do it... I re-keyed them in less time than I would spend driving to the dealer!

Thanks for the link!!!
 

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brentboshart said:
Not sure about the KR bags but the KRS is simple. Some instructions here.
Wow, great link. Kudos to Rod Neff for photo-documenting it. Took 15 minutes to do it on my KRS bags. Now that I know the secret, it would take 5 minutes if I had to re-do it.
 

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brentboshart said:
Not sure about the KR bags but the KRS is simple. Some instructions here.
If we're taking a poll,
I'd really like to see a detailed set of instructions with photos like this one that applies to the newer bikes key style too.
 

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The keyable cylinders for the new style locks is BMW part # 51 25 7 698 204

The "tumblers" in the new style locks are pinned and cannot be removed like the old ones could. The part number above comes with enough tumblers and springs to allow you to key it to any OEM combination.
 

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mark5lam said:
If we're taking a poll,
I'd really like to see a detailed set of instructions with photos like this one that applies to the newer bikes key style too.
Those instructions will work with 51 25 7 698 204 for the new style key.
 

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i have a top case for R1150GS.
i removed the core and am able to access the tumbler.
the key for this core is smaller than the new style key.
how do i re-key this core with the new style key? :confused:
thanks guys.
 
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