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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So took the mighty K12S to the local aftermarket shop to get general maintenance done after a two week, 3200 mi trip down the east coast (including the BMW Owners Group 2022 FART in Mid Virginia), Skyline, Blue Ridge, Dragon, Cherahala, etc. And the very last 6 hrs coming south down central/south Fla. thru the leading edge of hurricane Ian.

-Tires. Changing from Dunlop Q3+, to Dunlop Roadsmart IV for more life.
-Oil & filter
-Brakes. I had front pads changed a while back and all is fine there, but now rear rotor was showing some light scoring, and pads were unknown to me. (Bought bike with 20K) So doing new rotor and pads.

Leaving the shop (relatively quiet road with about 1/2 mile straight flat road) I began to break-in rear pads/rotor. First few 30 mph stops (rear only) had very little stopping power. Began to smell normal burn scent and next few stops got better. Began picking up the speeds a little to the 40-50 mph range, and was beginning to get some decent stops, right up to the point of feeling the ABS kick in.

On the next stop all hell broke loose.

Mid brake lost rear brake entirely, pedal dropped away to nothing. Immediately thought of catastrophic failure, but began pumping and got a little pedal back. Tried it again and same result. Pulled right back into the shop, originally thinking I was low on fluid, maybe leak in system etc. Fluid was full but no rear brake at all. Tech wheeled bike back into shop and on lift. He began an inspection, nothing obvious, but rotor and caliper were extremely hot. Once things cooled a bit he did a bleed and got some brake back.

General thought was that I had boiled the fluid. So he did a system flush & bleed. I made the 20 mi ride home and all seems well now. Will test more this weekend, may run down to the Keys.
 

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You overheated the shit out of the brake. I've done the same to the front brakes on both of my K1300S's with BMW pads, they fade to nothing under any sort of repetitive use, or even a single hard stop from high speed(130+). I changed the pads to some aftermarket semi-metallic and they have much better bite and resistance to fade. The calipers were not nearly hot enough on mine to boil the fluid, I suspect the brake pad material simply loses it when hot.
 

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Beretta Racer,

Great Riding through the Blue Ridge, I'm green with Envy!

Not sure what Pads your running or what Rotor you but on the back, as in Thickness......but No name rotors and pads are typically the results you produced on your rear brake failure.

Not sure why folks continue to go Cheap on Tires, Brakes and Suspension..... but I see it almost everyday!

CL Brakes are FRENCH. One can only guess as I cant remember in my 50+ years of riding ever hearing of a recommendation For French Brakes on any approved NHTSA motorcycle.

Rear Rotors? What rear Rotors? BMW rear ROTORS? Galfer? Vesrah? Metal Masters? Or did you install French Rotors onto this Bike?

I'm only beating this issue as This is the most important system on your Motorcycle..........Even Big Companies Like Brembo Have recalls All the Time...... Putting on Mystery Rotors and Brakes are counter productive and dangerous.

Here's what undoubtedly happened in your case :assuming you did not disconnect the Linked Brake/ABS System:

You purposely over braked your rears, looking to "Seat" them into the new Rotors, and your Mystery Pads, did not provide enough Braking Coefficient that you had or expected......

You overheated your rotors and Pads, and then Started Cooking up your Rear Caliper and then The Brake Pistons Expanded and BAMM !!!!! No Brakes! Imagine that?

Do you know you have at least 2 nitrate\Rubber O-ring in there? Do you you think you deformed them as well?

Lets all do ourselves a favor..... Buy Quality Brake Pads and Brake Rotors. Inspect your Calipers, including your Pins, Pistons and O-rings, change your fluids and ride safety!


A recent Article for Ducati and Triumph and Brembo Brake Recalls.

Font Document Paper Number Screenshot
 
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