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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I've got my brake light project done. Time for a new one. Since my foot/boots are so big, when I am riding my foot "rests" on brake pedal slightly and keeps the brake light on. I realized this after my buddies who ride with me told me my brake light was stuck on, and my cruise would not set, or kept going off. Anyway, pics hopefully went thru, can anyone tell me how to "lower" the pedal downward 2-3 inches??. I tried loosening the bolt holding on the pedal, and also loosening the threaded shaft that goes up in ?servo (rubber booted) thinghy, but that was useless. I could remove the pedal totally and have my friend cut and add a piece in there to make it lower (he is a metal craftsman, and expert on aluminum, and any other welding) but, I would rather not go that route. And, the footpegs have already been moved. If you get what I'm getting at, pivoting the pedal downward slightly is what I want to do. Thanks.
 

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No bogey's twist wrist
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pedal move

try a combination of shortening the linkage that goes into the brake master cylinder (rubber booted thingy) and adding a longer bolt that goes to the micro switch that turns the brake light on. Otherwise the spring just keeps it in the full up position. make sure the head of the bolt that touches the micro switch strip of metal is rounded and polished somewhat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Revisited...

dkeven said:
try a combination of shortening the linkage that goes into the brake master cylinder (rubber booted thingy) and adding a longer bolt that goes to the micro switch that turns the brake light on. Otherwise the spring just keeps it in the full up position. make sure the head of the bolt that touches the micro switch strip of metal is rounded and polished somewhat.
OK, you mean up near the front of the pedal, the blackish bolt that goes up to some sort of piece of strip?. This bolt, which is already extended fully, you mean I would have to put in a longer bolt, plus adjust thinghy??.
 

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You can add bolt length or generally fiddle with anything you want to on the brake pedal to adjust it to where you want, but when all said and done you must have about .008" free play between the stop bolt and brake light switch, before all slop in the master cylinder piston rod is lost.
In other words. When you get finished moving the lever. Put a .008 feeler between the adjusting bolt head and the brake light switch plate. Loosen the piston rod locknut, screw in the rod to create play. Then tighten the rod to just eliminate the play and lock down the locknut. Remove the feeler and you should be able to wiggle the master cylinder piston rod slightly.
This is done to adjust the blow-by clearance in the master cylinder.
Bruce C
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Revisited....

brucecha said:
You can add bolt length or generally fiddle with anything you want to on the brake pedal to adjust it to where you want, but when all said and done you must have about .008" free play between the stop bolt and brake light switch, before all slop in the master cylinder piston rod is lost.
In other words. When you get finished moving the lever. Put a .008 feeler between the adjusting bolt head and the brake light switch plate. Loosen the piston rod locknut, screw in the rod to create play. Then tighten the rod to just eliminate the play and lock down the locknut. Remove the feeler and you should be able to wiggle the master cylinder piston rod slightly.
This is done to adjust the blow-by clearance in the master cylinder.
Bruce C
OK, I really (sincerely) appreciate the comebacks. But, I must be stupid. I understand the part about the .008 clearance, check<. But, you are saying yes, put in a longer bolt to pivot pedal downward 2-3 inches (after loosening the rod that has the lock not as my pic shows, which in fact has a small protective clip over it) then, screw the rod clockwise towards the top of cylinder?. Then, as you mentioned, remove the feeler after tightening down the rod and locknut. I in no way have to loosen the bolt that connects the actual pedal to the bike, correct??. This shortening of the rod, do you know if this is recommended, and will not effect the way the whole thing works?. I think I understand your principle. Appreciate any comeback(s). Thanks. I'll get my K12 CD out and view the areas you are talking about.
 

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1200GTosprey said:
OK, I really (sincerely) appreciate the comebacks. But, I must be stupid. I understand the part about the .008 clearance, check<. But, you are saying yes, put in a longer bolt to pivot pedal downward 2-3 inches (after loosening the rod that has the lock not as my pic shows, which in fact has a small protective clip over it) then, screw the rod clockwise towards the top of cylinder?. Then, as you mentioned, remove the feeler after tightening down the rod and locknut. I in no way have to loosen the bolt that connects the actual pedal to the bike, correct??. This shortening of the rod, do you know if this is recommended, and will not effect the way the whole thing works?. I think I understand your principle. Appreciate any comeback(s). Thanks. I'll get my K12 CD out and view the areas you are talking about.
I will stay COMPLEATLY out of the merits of installing longer bolts or of cutting the master cylinder piston rod to achieve a lower brake pedal. The point of my post was that you must have the brake piston against it's internal stop for the master cylinder blow-by port to function properly. There can be NO tension on this rod when you are all through changing your pedal height and the pedal is at it's rest position.
Right behind the clevis clip on the brake piston rod is the locknut that you must loosen to adjust the master cylinder piston rod free play. You should not have to remove this clip or rod to make this adjustment when the pedal is in it's stock position.

Bruce C
 

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brake adjustment

yes you don't need to loosen or remove the bolt holding the pedal on, Yes this is a change from original done properly should prove no problems. Agree 100% on the free play adjustment it has to be there. This is a less radical approach then cutting the brake lever. And fully returnable to stock as the only thing done is adjustment and a longer bolt. I installed a longer bolt on mine for a less radical move (.5 inch) as the existing one is almost extended all the way out in stock form. As always your results may vary,
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok.........

brucecha said:
I will stay COMPLEATLY out of the merits of installing longer bolts or of cutting the master cylinder piston rod to achieve a lower brake pedal. Bruce C
OK, got ya. Since this (adjuster) bolt is extended all the way out now, it would seem logical to me that this bolt by screwing it in more would only bring the pedal upward^, for someone that wanted to adjust it in that direction. No, I would not attempt to cut/shorten that rod that goes to master cylinder. I guess the only way is to remove the pedal, and have my welder friend cut a short part out and angle the pedal down a little. I see no other way (unless someone jumps in here). He did this for me on a Suzuki before. We removed the pedal, and he put a short (2") piece in and welded it up. This made the actual "pad" of the lever more under the ball of my foot, rather than the arch area of my foot. Worked good. Well, this is gonna get complicated. I just viewed my pics I took, and that adjuster bolt is up within 3"? from front of pedal. If any piece is added, it would have to be in front of this. Let's see if somebody can give me some hints. Thanks.
 

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1200GTosprey said:
OK, got ya. Since this (adjuster) bolt is extended all the way out now, it would seem logical to me that this bolt by screwing it in more would only bring the pedal upward^, for someone that wanted to adjust it in that direction. No, I would not attempt to cut/shorten that rod that goes to master cylinder. I guess the only way is to remove the pedal, and have my welder friend cut a short part out and angle the pedal down a little. I see no other way (unless someone jumps in here). He did this for me on a Suzuki before. We removed the pedal, and he put a short (2") piece in and welded it up. This made the actual "pad" of the lever more under the ball of my foot, rather than the arch area of my foot. Worked good. Well, this is gonna get complicated. I just viewed my pics I took, and that adjuster bolt is up within 3"? from front of pedal. If any piece is added, it would have to be in front of this. Let's see if somebody can give me some hints. Thanks.
Osprey,
As others have stated, you need to keep freeplay in the rod that actuates the master cylinder. If you sit on the floor and move the pedal with your hand, you can actually feel/hear the point when the rod hits the master cylinder piston. It's important to keep this freeplay so the brake caliper is not partially activated, causing a potential for a major problem, the brake locking up, overheating, catching fire! From reading the above, I think you understand this.
I don't think there is enough adjustment in the master cylinder push rod to allow the amount of movement you want. You will most likely have to make the welding adjustment to the brake pedal itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK.......Thanks.

Bobmws said:
Osprey,
I don't think there is enough adjustment in the master cylinder push rod to allow the amount of movement you want. You will most likely have to make the welding adjustment to the brake pedal itself.
Thanks very much guys. This is an excellent site. I will sit on doing this awhile. Want to ride maybe this week.....supposedly going to 40 degrees all week. Pretty good for upstate
New York.
 
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