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Hey there,

I don't know if this has been spoken about in the recent past, but here it goes....If you have 12k miles or more on your GT and you have not replaced the oil in your differential yet, you need too. I had my oil changed per BMW at 600-1000 miles. It is supposed to be a one time thing. I decided to keep up the 04s change interval of every 12k miles. So while i had the rims off for new tires i decided to tackle it myself. At 12k miles it was BLACK! I used the BMW branded oil (Spectro), it is red because I could not find Castrol SAF-XO (recommended in RepRom) anywhere in Cen Cal. The change procedure has been explained in many forums and are identical to what is prescribed in the RepRom. Very easy. It looks like i wear out tires every 6k miles so i will change it again a 6k miles to see if it is black again. If not, then every 12k no matter what.
 

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ccii42104 said:
Hey there,

I don't know if this has been spoken about in the recent past, but here it goes....If you have 12k miles or more on your GT and you have not replaced the oil in your differential yet, you need too. I had my oil changed per BMW at 600-1000 miles. It is supposed to be a one time thing. I decided to keep up the 04s change interval of every 12k miles. So while i had the rims off for new tires i decided to tackle it myself. At 12k miles it was BLACK! I used the BMW branded oil (Spectro), it is red because I could not find Castrol SAF-XO (recommended in RepRom) anywhere in Cen Cal. The change procedure has been explained in many forums and are identical to what is prescribed in the RepRom. Very easy. It looks like i wear out tires every 6k miles so i will change it again a 6k miles to see if it is black again. If not, then every 12k no matter what.
I dont get this guys. Im not suggesting what youre saying isnt right because there is plenty of evidence to support what youre saying but ive never heard of gearbox or diferential oil oxidising before.
Unlike engine oil there is minimal to no heat and no contaminants to degrade the oil. Can someone tell me what causes the diff oil on these bikes to oxidise and degrade in the way that it seems to be??????? :confused: :confused: :confused:
 

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Dadicool59 said:
I dont get this guys. Im not suggesting what youre saying isnt right because there is plenty of evidence to support what youre saying but ive never heard of gearbox or diferential oil oxidising before.
Unlike engine oil there is minimal to no heat and no contaminants to degrade the oil. Can someone tell me what causes the diff oil on these bikes to oxidise and degrade in the way that it seems to be??????? :confused: :confused: :confused:
When the dif is new it will crunch up the oil and make it black as it breaks in (prolly assembly grease, too). We had a tech session at my house yesterday and the difs on bikes with 40thou on up were coming out clear oil.
 

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Yup, just had mine done at about 20k. I do it every time I do the oil. It has gotten much clearer than the first few times. Run synthetic oil, go through tires every 6000 miles or so and do everything at once. Tires, oil and diff. Makes life pretty simple and my bike is happy!
 

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Did my own at 700 miles along with the engine oil.
no big deal... sorta fun.

Gotta love wrenching on a brand new $22,000.00 vehicle.

Let the dealer plug it into the computer for $70.00 to complete the 600 mile service.

Drive shaft splines were VERY dry.
I Honda Molyed 'em but good.

Final drive gear oil was quite dirty. Looked... graphitey for lack of a better term.
Used Spectro 75-90 Full synthetic.

Still need a few torque specs to complete the job, but nobody's answering.

Buttoned her back up and been riding with no problems. Other than that I apparently got some FD fluid on my brake rotor. Whhooo Nelllly!!! Wiped it off a few times with solvent. Seems fine now.

Dmilan
 

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final drive fluid change

I was surprised how dry the splines were on my RT when I did my final drive fluid change at 12K miles. They were the same way at 24K miles as well. I greased them up but good and of course changed the FD fluid. Piece of cake man. Have a good one guys.
 

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Thanks for the responses guys but still no answer to WHY? we should have to change the FD oil. As previously questioned, gearbox or differential oil should not degrade or oxidise like engine oil does.
Grifscoots, what the hell does crunch up the oil mean?
I have had cars that I have done 70-80000 miles in and never had to touch the gearbox or diff oil.
A couple of you have said that post 600 mile oil drops are coming out clean, does this not then suggest that it is unnesesary.
 

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Dadicool59 said:
Thanks for the responses guys but still no answer to WHY? we should have to change the FD oil. As previously questioned, gearbox or differential oil should not degrade or oxidise like engine oil does.
Grifscoots, what the hell does crunch up the oil mean?
I have had cars that I have done 70-80000 miles in and never had to touch the gearbox or diff oil.
A couple of you have said that post 600 mile oil drops are coming out clean, does this not then suggest that it is unnesesary.
Can't speak for Griff, but I'm pretty sure that he meant that the new metal, gears, bearings, shims, whatever else, inside the final drive, machine themselves down a bit. Little pieces of metal turnings, shavings, chunks, that are formed as the new parts settle into each other.

You'll want to get those contaminants out of there. Especially with some evidence of final drive failures out there with this design.

Just did my 700 mile service on my '08 GT. The final drive fluid that I drained out was DEFINATELY DIRTY. Which is to say, contained lots of fine particles. Looked GRAPHITEY for lack of a better word. The heavy particles at the bottom were the last to drain from my collection pan into my recycling jug. That stuff was quite thick. Should have put a magnet in the sludge, but it didn't dawn on me to do so at the time.

Good point about the car tranny and differentials though.

In, what seems like another life, I worked at an auto junkyard. Hmmm. Automotive dismantling and recycling center. Anyway. Very few folks back then ever changed their differential or tranny lube as a maintenance item. The stuff that came out looked like tar. And the differentials and manual trannys almost never broke.

DMilan
 

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That's exactly what I meant.

From the final drives on the LT I've learned that the final drive oil will come out graphite looking, and slowly starts looking better, till about 20k miles when you get real clear. I think grease, etc. from building the final drive, bearings and coatings on parts are causing the graphite look.

When the drive is new it will shed metal as it breaks in. This was evidenced as a gray fuzz on the LT's magnetic plug. This also diminished as the drive aged and the fluid became clear.

We changed the fluid on the final drive of the LT every time we changed the oil simply looking for metal shards that MAYBE gave us a heads up on a failure that was fixing to happen. There were a lot of failures on the LT.

When your final drive fluid starts coming out clean on the GT, you can probably extend your changes. But, as any oil, it will eventually age and breakdown, so I'd do it at least every 20k or so.
 

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BMW's official recommendation is to change the rear drive oil at 600 miles, then leave it for the life of the bike. If you're comfortable with that on your bike, then that's fine.

After my experiences with two failed drives on my LTs, plus other evidence on the newer drives also failing, I had my GT final drive oil changed at 80 miles, then again at 500 miles, then every 6-12K after that. Oil is relatively cheap, especially if you do the labor yourself, so for me it's pretty trivial.

Again, you gotta do whatever makes you comfortable on your bike, just as the rest of us do.
 

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grifscoots said:
That's exactly what I meant.

From the final drives on the LT I've learned that the final drive oil will come out graphite looking, and slowly starts looking better, till about 20k miles when you get real clear. I think grease, etc. from building the final drive, bearings and coatings on parts are causing the graphite look.

When the drive is new it will shed metal as it breaks in. This was evidenced as a gray fuzz on the LT's magnetic plug. This also diminished as the drive aged and the fluid became clear.

We changed the fluid on the final drive of the LT every time we changed the oil simply looking for metal shards that MAYBE gave us a heads up on a failure that was fixing to happen. There were a lot of failures on the LT.

When your final drive fluid starts coming out clean on the GT, you can probably extend your changes. But, as any oil, it will eventually age and breakdown, so I'd do it at least every 20k or so.
Grif, I im keen on this one cause ive had an FD failure at 6000 miles on the GT and mighty pissed about it. 2 months without the bike while it sat 800 miles from home.
Ive now done about 1000 miles since i got her back and based on what you are saying I need to get that oil out now.
You mentioned that it could be sucked out, do you know where i can find some instructions/tools for that.
Cheers
 

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Dadicool59 said:
Grif, I im keen on this one cause ive had an FD failure at 6000 miles on the GT and mighty pissed about it. 2 months without the bike while it sat 800 miles from home.
Ive now done about 1000 miles since i got her back and based on what you are saying I need to get that oil out now.
You mentioned that it could be sucked out, do you know where i can find some instructions/tools for that.
Cheers
Quit easy. Remove the cap at the 3 o'clock position. You need one of them big syringe type thangs, like the type you use for flushing brake fluid thru the calipers. You need some 1/4" outer diameter tubing.

Place the tubing in the hole, rotate the rear wheel clockwise, the bearing housing will drag the tube to the bottom of the dif. Suck, empty syringe, suck, empty syringe, suck, empty syringe. Rotate wheel counter clockwise to make it give up tubing.

Replace lube, about 23 milliliters, with your favorite flavour.
 

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grifscoots said:
Suck, empty syringe, suck, empty syringe, suck, empty syringe.......
The answer is:

What does a hooker addicted to meth do? :rotf: :rotf: :D :D

On a more serious note, I have reservations about the "sucking" method as I think it would tend to not get out as much of the metal filings as removing everything and letting gravity do it's thing. Also, he should definitely check the spline and lube it all up too.
 

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iflybricks said:
So how do you lube the splines up when you use this method?
You don't. They say the modern splines don't need it, then turn around and say do it when you drop the dif. You also have to realize that they don't have any other lube changes after 600 miles.

But hey, what could it hurt. I drop the dif when I change tires.
 

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grifscoots said:
You don't. They say the modern splines don't need it, then turn around and say do it when you drop the dif. You also have to realize that they don't have any other lube changes after 600 miles.

But hey, what could it hurt. I drop the dif when I change tires.
Thanks Grif, I think Ill get the dealer to do it this time seeing as theyve replaced it under warranty and then learn to drop ther diff out myself.
Cheers
 
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