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Discussion Starter #1
.. on the side of the road with a swiss knife? - Check!!! :snowlaff:

I cooked my rear brake pads in the tuscan hills so by the time I hit rome, I was metal on metal.. And since the K as coupled brakes, I could not even lay off the rear brake.

So thanks to BMW (and Brembo) for a real simple system, i was able to replace the pads on the side of the road with only the tool kit found under the seat.. Yeah! Time to find spare parts on the fly, figure out how to replace them and do the work, 2 hours!

I haven't looked into replacing the front ones yet, but I hope they are as easy to work.. This country is brake intensive, I foresee having to replace the front ones very soon.

Ferodo Sinter is what i bought.. this is good sh*t :D
 

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Unless you had FRONT brake pads that were already quite thin (say 25% of material left), I doubt you will need to replace as fast as the rear. Since you have the "Integral ABS" with the Brembo front caliper, it is easy to visually check how much material is left for the FRONT (without removing anything).

Based on my experience and previous discussions on this forum, on the K1200RS the REAR brake pads will last between 8,000 to 20,000 miles (13,000 to 32,000 KM). With the type of riding you are doing right now in Europe, my guess is that you will be closer to the lower range.

The FRONT will last between 35,000 to 70,000 miles (56,000 to 112,000 KM). Since I am fairly light, often ride alone and do very little stop-and-go traffic type of riding, my K1200RS front pads are still on the bike after 80,000 miles (128,000 KM). There is approx 15% of the pads material left - I already have a spare set ready to be installed. Installationn isextremelyely easy to do on those Bremstampedped caliper: all you need is 1 Torx wrench for the bolt (that serves as the pin). You might also need another larger Torx wrench to loosened the Caliper so that you can open the pads (move the piston in) - otherwise the new thicker pads cannot slide in.

P.S.: keep posting pictures of you trip when you have time.
 

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I just re-read my last message after posting, sorry for the mess on the last sentence, It should have been:

Installation is extremely easy on those BREMBO stamped FRONT calipers:
all you need is 1 Torx wrench for the bolt (that serves as the pin). You might also need another larger Torx wrench to loosened the Caliper so that you can open the pads (move the piston in) - otherwise the new thicker pads cannot slide in. The small sping clip that look like a cotter-pin can be removed with your hands - no tool needed for this one.
 

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Ferrodos good, had them on my K100RS without any issues ever. EBCs....Hum grooved my rear rotor pretty quick, and also a brand new rotor on the R100GS years ago. BTW they are the same pads, rear K1200RS and 1987-1995 R100GS front.

Because of the linked braking system, apparently you have to respect a certain friction coefficient between the pads, front & rear, I certainly believe that one, from old habits I applied both brakes because a deer jumped on the road as I was coming out of a curve, that kind of destabilised the bike in ways I did not like so.....remember....front brake only. Unless that is you know about trailing the rear at the apex of a curve..... :ricky

I am now using Carbon Lorraine....sounds French made and all Kevlar, none of them metallic compounds in them to eat my rotors.That got me rid of the slight pulsing in front, I tought at first it could be a warped rotor as per the BMW Service Bulletin, but all checked out OK with the deflection gauge, so most probably was contaminated pads, I could see a little road tar cooked in them.

Interesting thread I read somewhere yesterday on cooking the rear......change that fluid. Trop bouilli....c'est pas bon! :stir:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry I mislead you by using the wrong word.. I did not actually cook the pads (I know what that means), I meant that i ate right through them, down to the metal!

And yes, trailbraking is my friend ;)

I always use the rear brake pedal, old habits die hard.. But I'm starting to use it less and less (first bike with linked brakes) and keep that for heavy braking

I don't feel the pulsing you mention, I will also make a visual inspection of what's left later today.

Thanks

P.s. more awesome pics coming right up ;)
 

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OK. Carbon fiber is your friend if you want to keep those rotors as long as possible. On the other hand if you are eating metal frein, you will eat carbon much faster and have the black dust to prove it.

That's the good thing, you learn to use the brakes less because it's more of a pain cleaning black dust off the rear rim - but you win on both rotor, pad and tire wear.



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ragingBULL said:
And yes, trailbraking is my friend ;)

I always use the rear brake pedal, old habits die hard.. But I'm starting to use it less and less (first bike with linked brakes) and keep that for heavy braking
OK....if you use the rear altogether with the front, the rear overrides the linked function/proportioning set by BMW. Not always a good thing even on a straight line believe me. Practice practice.....! :)

The pulsing is that there was quite a few bikes all across the range, not specific to the K1200RS, with defective rotors. BMW saw fit to put out a bulletin on that. :D Most noticeable upon light application of the brakes. :)
 

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I've had the 'pulsing' on the fronts fail my DVLA cycle test. Everybody said it was the rotor that was warped. I checked the rotor first with a dial micrometer and there was negligible run out.

The test involves rolling the wheel and applying gentle pressure to the brake, whilst watching the brake effort meter. On my bike the reading was oscillating about. Afterwards I took the bike out and couldn't feel it until I tried a hard brake from 70mph.

It wasn't the rotor that was warped but sticking (part seized) caliper pistons. You can get another clue by looking at the pad wear on either side of the rotor. If it is uneven, then suspect sticking pistons first before buying an expensive new rotor.



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I just had an extended chat with my dealer about K1200RS' and rear brakes. He confirmed that KRS' just flat eat rear brake pads much, much faster than front pads. I'm trying to change my riding style to staying off the rear brake pedal if I'm using the front brake lever, although I think it's a bad habit to form (not much use on unlinked brake systems). The rear brake gets the nod for low speed, parking lot maneuvering. We'll see how it goes.
 

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Yes rear brake is single rotor, 2 piston caliper and a maximum theoretical contribution to overall braking of around 15%.

So it's not surprising the 'lead foot' is easy to do when slowing from speed and all you are doing is heating the rotor, pads, caliper and wearing pads - with not much chance of the heat getting away if braking is sustained. Maximum achievable efficiency is why they only put a single rotor on the rear.That's the nice thing about a rear drum brake. It doesn't need to be any more and there is plenty of wheel hub to take away the heat.

If they had real linked brakes, with the effort percentage ratio correctly designed and maintained, you would only be pulling on the front lever and I can't think of many reasons why you would want rear only, although I use the rear for small amounts of braking where I feel there is more control. If that braking effort is correctly distributed, you should expect the front and rear pads to wear out at the same time.

It's too late to change motorcycles now, but I think I might prefer no servos and the linked front and rear done on the foot pedal.



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