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57 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I ride a 2010 K1300GT with 46,000 miles, mostly 2 up with luggage loaded to the maximum 80% of the time. Below is a list of the items that one is to do to change the shock as per the manual. If you have done this job or have a friend that did it please give advice. Just place an X beside the items you did not have to do to remove the front shock.
Does the front and rear brake system need to be drained?
Is there any other step that needs to be added or deleted?
Is there anything else that should be checked for wear ( or replace anyway as this part will go before the front shock needs to be serviced again, likely by 80k to 100,000 miles) when changing the front shock? E.g. leading link bearing/bushing (Can this be done by replacing the bushing or does whole part need replacing? )

Preparatory work
Removing rear seat

Removing left side panel

Removing right side panel

Removing complete engine spoiler (side panels removed)

Installing engine lifter

Releasing ESA cable

Removing bracket of central vehicle electronics (ZFE) control unit

Remove the intake air pipe

Draining front brake system

Draining rear brake system

Removing pressure modulator

Removing left brake caliper

Removing right brake caliper

Removing complete front-wheel cover

Removing front wheel

Releasing front wheel-speed sensor

Releasing front brake-line distributor

Removing cooling-air duct

Disengaging radiator

Core activity

Removing front suspension with leading link

21 Posts
I will venture to guess that one - or probably both - of your front ball joints are shot. To check these, put your bike on the center stand and have someone lean (put weight on) the luggage rack so the front wheel is suspended. You walk to the front of the bike, grab the front rim and push/pull front to back (not side-to-side!). Any play at all, and your ball joints are gone. Been there, done that.....and what a difference you will notice when replaced!

176 Posts
2010 K13GT, 44k, have had the front shock out twice. Once for replacement, once for follow-up adjustment. I did not drain the brakes and cannot find that step listed in my factory service DVD as part of the shock removal. So long as the calipers are removed and properly suspended out of the way and avoiding kinking, and the brake lines are unbolted from the fork arms and frame, I see no need to open the brake system.

My ball joints were fine so left them undisturbed. You only need to pull the large pivot bolt for the lower suspension arm and work it down far enough to be able to slip out the shock. Note that there are some one-time use bolts (per BMW) that are pre-treated with thread locker.


BTW-- you only need the engine lifter if removing both shocks at the same time. Front or rear can be removed individually with bike on center stand and opposite end of bike strapped down on the lift.
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