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I'm coming to a point in my bikes life where I have to pull it apart and change a lot of stuff. I have some basic directions.

1) Drain gas tank.
2) Remove Gas tank
3) Remove fuel-pump assemble, how difficult is it to remove the drain and breather hoses, any tricks?
4) change out fuel filter, double check to make sure the arrow is in the correct direction.

Assembly is the reverse of the above.

Alright, for those that have completed this task, what steps or items should I take extra care and what problems might I run into during this process.

Thanks,
Mark
 

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I pulled my tupperware and tank a few weeks ago when installing a set of PIAA's and autoswitch (pulling the tank wasn't absolutely necessary but made routing the wiring harness much cleaner IMO) Its a pretty easy job, though a bit time consuming getting all of the plastic removed from the bike (leave the center body panel on the tank but don't forget about the screw up near the steering head that needs to come out) Unlike on my previous GS the gas tank vent hoses do not have an intermediate connector on them so you will need to pull the one to ground up through the frame routing to ground (remembering how it was routed) and trace the vacuum side back to the cannister (I remember I ended up pulling the battery to make this easier to get to ... which also means disassembling the front seat retaining 'bar' from the frame to get the battery out...) No advice on getting into the tank, I haven't been there yet...
 

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Changing the fuel filter yourself

Hi Mark:

I love to do as much work on my bikes as I can, which includes most of the factory-recommended things. The last fuel filter I changed was the one on my RT. The set up is similar to the RS. After all was said and done, I made the decision to let the dealer perform this procedure in the future. For me, it wasn't worth the difficulty and time. Fuel filter changes and brake fluid purges are two things I am willing to pay a dealer for. It is certainly not beyond the ability of an amateur wrench to make the filter change, though. Take your time, and remember how you disassembled everything. If you decide not to use the fancy Oetiker hose clamps when you put things back together, make sure the clamps you choose are rust proof.
 

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The bottom of the tank has a large nut you must remove for access to the fuel pump and filter. Don't forget to repace the rubber gasket on the nut. The internal (to the tank) hose clamps are the Otiker single-use type. Be ready with replacement clamps for these.

Watch out for damage to the fuel line quick releases. Don't put a lot of sideways force on them or could cause failure in the future. Good idea to replace the quick-release 0-rings while stuff is apart.
 

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George
Are regular hose clamps like the ones inside the K75 tank OK to use ?
 

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lee said:
George
Are regular hose clamps like the ones inside the K75 tank OK to use ?
I'm not George ;-)), but you want to use fuel injection hose clamps as opposed to regular hose clamps. The FI clamps have a solid band in contact with the hose and a bolt and nut in the tighteneing assembly. They're available from your dealer.
 

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I used reg hose clamps for years in my KRS with no problems, if you have quick disconnects on the outer fuel lines the job is quick and painless if done during reg maint. It makes such a dramatic improvment in throttle response in the RS that myself and several friends got to the point we just replaced them every 6k miles.
If you are careful the tank doesnt have to be completely empty just mostly so then lay the tank on its side when working on it so whats in there doesnt spill.
 

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Really?

karlb said:
I used reg hose clamps for years in my KRS with no problems, if you have quick disconnects on the outer fuel lines the job is quick and painless if done during reg maint. It makes such a dramatic improvment in throttle response in the RS that myself and several friends got to the point we just replaced them every 6k miles.
You replace the quick disconnects every 6 months????
 

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fuel filter

Uh, I think they replace fuel filter that often.
 

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Bobmws said:
I'm not George ;-)), but you want to use fuel injection hose clamps as opposed to regular hose clamps. The FI clamps have a solid band in contact with the hose and a bolt and nut in the tighteneing assembly. They're available from your dealer.

I am George and Bob is right about the clamps. Solid band clamps will not bite into the hose like "regular" clamps. I think cost is about $2 each at dealer.
 

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Sorry if it wasnt clear, yes we replaced the Fuel filter every 6k miles you can tell a diff with a new one.
 

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Mark,

Did you ever replace your fuel filter? I moved my fuel filter outside the tank on the R-bike making it very easy to change.

I have a couple of bits of advice based on my R-bike experience. I'm not sure they apply but they probably do:

1. Get a pair of oetiker clamp pliers on ebay or borrow a set from me. The very small vent line clamps are not replacable with screw type clamps because they're so small. BMW will sell you screw type clamps for everything else.

2. Be very careful removing the hoses from the bottom of the filter. That little ceramic printed circuit board behind the fuel line is the fuel gauge and if your screwdriver slips off and hits it you have to but the entire flange assembly for over $200 or find one used on ebay. I had an HES failure and thought it was fuel so I was into the filter several times. It was sunday so I eventually put a generic filter in from Pep Boys and then had to change it back out to a BMW filter. Anyway eventually, in a hurry, the screwdriver slipped and pieces went everywhere.

I don't know if I'll move the filter outside the tank on the K-bike or not.

And for the guy that replaces his filter every 6k miles, I would definitely recommend you move yours outside. I'm quite suprised that you can tell a difference since there is a fuel pressure regulator downstream of the filter that takes fuel pressure from about 90 psig to 45 or so. I don't understand how you can have 40 psi of pressure drop across the fuel filter that quickly.

--jerry

--Jerry
 

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different for early 98s

bump to point out that early models have the FP plate mounted
to the bottom of the tank with allen screws. Some corrosion
down there is making mine leak on reassembly, or the gasket
needs replacing. Anyone use sealant on the older bikes for this app?

Still had the original at 93k miles in there and it was clogged pretty good.
Didn't notice it driving and good that it didn't crap out on the road cuz its
a bitch to replace.

thx
 

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Never like the idea of sealants around fuel systems leeching back into the system. Sort out plate, clean/re-plate/ and new gasket for me. Tanks and leaks have been a known problem so I'm not about to get curious just yet on a non-leaking working system. I like the idea of external filter mounting though, if it can be done and there's space on the K.



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Tanks guys ;) I've ordered the $11 gasket/oring thing
and we'll see if that helps.
 

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Eric

Check to see if there is warpage between the bolts, this will cause leaks as mine did. I used some sealant to stop the leak for the rest of the season but opted to replace the tank with the new nutted style this winter. Found used one on line.
 

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vtpaul, I read this distortion was a common problem on the older tanks like mine, which is why I'm leaving well alone at the moment.

From what you remember, do you think the plastic mounting surface might be improved with some sort of reinforcing metal ring, say 4-5mm thick fitted as a backing one side of the mounting like a large washer?



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