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It is the K12 clutch. much to read on forums and YouTube. It can be fixed. First tip, do not go into neutral at stops. Do not start the bike in neutral. Stay in first gear. Easy on the clutch, try feathering it some. Here is some thoughts on the K12 clutch. The K13 clutch is much better, you can buy the parts either on Ebay for a good used one or new. Or better yet have John Sykes rebuild it for you.
My ’05 K12S will not start in first gear, I must be in neutral.
 

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The K1300 has bearings I'm ordering these bearings from eBay: TRB RC 8x14x4mm Precision Ball Bearings ABEC 3 Rubber Sealed BLU (4)
View attachment 28475
Sloppy Shifter Fix!!! | BMW K1200, K1300, and K1600 Forum
https://www.k-bikes.com › ... › K12/1300GT (Next Gen)


Feb 28, 2009 — I replaced the OEM plastic bushing with a stack of 4 bearings and the mod transformed the shifting into a smooth and precise action
Please report back with results, I may do this as well. I’m having sloppy shifts from 2-3rd
 

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Every wet clutch clunks into 1st.... what are y’all complaining about?

I ordered the bearings, what do I need now?
 

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Ah I see, so all the bearings are stacked.

Can't I simply drill out a smaller washer?
 

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I must be doing something wrong here. I just got my bearings with the intent of installing them, and boy am I glad I didn’t remove the bushing. It doesn’t fit. See pictures.

Wood Musical instrument Wind instrument Sleeve Beige
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The shoulder sleeve?
 

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The metal spacer (bearing) comes out easily. Inside are two thin plastic cylinders that have a flange on each end. Prise those out. There is a video on youtube that shows how he did it.
And these can be used as washers touching only the inner race?
 

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Found the aforementioned youtube video BTW:

 

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I went with the 5-bearing method. Using the plastic shoulder-sleeves as a washer kind of defeats the purpose of this mod as you want the bolt to rest on the inner race.

I ended up using superglue b/c I didn’t have loctite red, and wasn’t about to use loctite blue. If done right glue isn’t even entirely necessary.

Right now the only thing I’m stuck on is the washer. Lowe’s carries 8mm washers but they’re too large. I have aluminum crush washers that are the perfect size, but they won’t work for this application, it should ideally be steel.

I’ll probably go to the specialty store for bolts and washers if they’re open.
 

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Holy shit I just got done. Took way longer than I care to admit. Apparently there’s a kit, just get that.

Ended up buying washers from O’Reilly’s and then drilling out the middle and sanding the burred ends flat. I removed the original washer bolt and just stuck the bolt in there. It’s large enough, and then stock one washer at the end that goes onto the bike.

Loctite setting now, will report back once I take it for a ride. Hopefully it’ll give me more confident shifts.
 

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Just went for a ride. First impression: shifting is better, but it's not a night --> day change. It's still clunky, but I do feel more firmness/directness.

I think this is one of those changes that's more subtle but welcome over time.
 

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Just got through a good ride. As I suspected it’s a small upgrade that pays dividends over time.

Shifter is much more firm and solid. It makes riding -->| |<-- that much more enjoyable. So long as everything holds, which it should, I’ll be very happy.
 

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My bolt came out while on its first major ride (~1h).

I need to use more loctite for the threads. Kind of an unexpected occurrence. I removed the washer for the bolt (it’s sitting on the outside inner race). Could this have made a difference?
 

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Well my superglue’d bearings came out yesterday....

As in the shift lever slipped off the bearings. I applied some loctite blue, and I need to figure out a final solution here.

Separately: the bolt is too short, and it’s stripped, so I put it in with a shitton of loctite blue and haven’t touched it since. I don’t like my setup, what’s the lengh/thread of the bolt required for this? Do they sell it at Lowe’s?
 

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Update:

Idk what the deal was with the original bold. Eventually it just sheared apart. Luckily I had another M8 1.25 bolt laying around that was long enough. I also managed to make the necessary spacer washers by drilling out some washers (PITA).

Wow. What I had before was an upgrade over the bushings, but what I have now is an upgrade on that. Incredible.

It’s also incredible how much thought goes into something so benign. Hopefully this solution will stay permanent because I not only have a spacer washer, but also a washer to hold the lever on should the loctite fail, which it will inevitably at some point.

[edit]

To add, the improvement is so profound, I think the poor shift lever might explain the early transmission failures. It really feels like a well oiled rifle now.
 

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Capt,
How is that? What page or section in the DVD are you referring to? I would like to check that out. I did my own ball bearing conversion a year or so ago, but I would like to see what this is.
Thanks
I checked it; Align the nut at the top with the mark, and then place your foot on the peg in the riding position and put the shift lever in the middle of the foot.

Really shouldn’t require a manual, but BMW.
 

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Thanks for the pics and the obviously monumental effort it took you to post them up!
Anytime :-*

Sorry for being a shit. I have my reprom thing in a VM, so to pull the pictures it took me like 15 minutes trying to figure out the best way to share the files.

I could have taken a screenshot, but I wanted to do it right.
 
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