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Clutch Basket Compatibility / Update

1495 Views 27 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  MauK1200
Hello every one!!!

Two quick questions:

1. Is the 2010 clutch basket the updated one?? springs rattle issue is solved?

2. Is the 2010 clutch basket compatible with my 2005 k1200s?

I have a lot of rattle in mine and I can buy a 2010 used one, but want to be sure it will fit with my lamellar pack and the rest of my parts and that it will solve the rattle.

Thanks ins advance!!!!
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Short answer is yes. Buy one on ebay or somewhere They are expensive new. But..., you will need one part to make it fit your K1200 bike. The oil pump drive sprocket, it has different lugs to fit the back of a K1300 basket. See the sprocket below and note the two rectangular dogs on it, they fit into the back of the basket. Your K12 has round pins. So, you buy the K13 oil pump sprocket and you are good to go. Get the one specked for 2010 and newer it has one 26 teeth rather than the older one with 25 teeth. This will increase your oil pressure which is a good thing. You will also need the matching part of the basket and the thrust pin. Which is up graded also. Please do a search about clutch replacement on this forum and you will find many evenings of information to read.

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If you go large and buy a complete clutch for a K13 you will be on your way. But find a wrecking yard and buy used and put some after market plates in it if needed. But read all you can first on this forum. This is a huge subject and has been covered in depth here.
I bumped this to get more folks to comment also. And the spring thing is good but leads you down a path that makes little difference unless done well. The K12 suffered from poor oil flow to the plates that causes the judder. The K13 basket has proper drilled oil holes and the above pin has a flat side letting oil flow easier. Good luck in your quest.
Use some of the on line parts diagrams to help you.
My quick search for a used clutch from a K13 came up with nothing. You may end up buying a complete new one and that is over $2000 US so look hard.
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Si no quieres gastar $2000 , la puedes reparar tu mismo
aqui te enseño como

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WOW!!!! Ese es un trabajo increible @Hondakiller !!!!

Si me permites me gustaria hacerte unas preguntas:

1. Vi los links a los muelles en Youtube... Las especificaciones de los amarillos que salen en automatico son las correctos?? (se necesitan 4 piezas cierto??)
2. El verde es una sola pieza??
3. Podrias compartir las especificaciones de los casquillos y los tornillos??
3.1 Es viable hacer las roscas directamente sobre la campana??
4. El casquillo de bronce es opcional cierto??
5. podrias compartir las especificaciones de este casquillo??

Encontre un campana del 2010 aquí por el equivaleta 450euros y de ahi surgio mi idea de hacer la actualizacion pero esta opcion es mucho mejor. Solo habría que agregar los agujeros para mejorar la lubricacion segun tu video cierto?? Esto para resolver el problema que menciona @Beech

Hay muchos videos que ver en tu canal de YouTube... GRACIAS POR COMPARTIR!!!!

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WOW!!!! That is amazing work @Hondakiller !!!!

If you allow me, I would like to ask you a few questions:

1. I saw the links to the springs on Youtube... Are the specifications of the yellow ones that appear automatically correct? (4 pieces are needed right??)
2. Is the green one piece?
3. Could you share the specifications of the 3 bushings and bolts?
3.1 Is it feasible to make the threads directly on the basket?
4. The bronze bushing is optional, right?
5. Could you share the specifications of this bushing?

I found a 2010 basket here for the equivalent of 450 usd and that's where my idea of updating came from, but this option is much better. It would only be necessary to add the holes to improve the lubrication according to your video, right??? This to solve the problem that @Beech said

There are so many videos to watch on your YouTube channel... THANKS FOR SHARING!!!!
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Short answer is yes. Buy one on ebay or somewhere They are expensive new. But..., you will need one part to make it fit your K1200 bike. The oil pump drive sprocket, it has different lugs to fit the back of a K1300 basket. See the sprocket below and note the two rectangular dogs on it, they fit into the back of the basket. Your K12 has round pins. So, you buy the K13 oil pump sprocket and you are good to go. Get the one specked for 2010 and newer it has one 26 teeth rather than the older one with 25 teeth. This will increase your oil pressure which is a good thing. You will also need the matching part of the basket and the thrust pin. Which is up graded also. Please do a search about clutch replacement on this forum and you will find many evenings of information to read.
Thankyou so much @Beech!!! I found a 2010 Basket here in Mexico for about 450USD... I will see if this seller has the sprocket and the thrust pin and, if so, make a choice between this or @Hondakiller 's option... or maybe at the end I do both: replace with the new ones and try the fix to learn something new ;)
If the basket is used, smooth up the inside teeth so the plates will slide easily, of course clean everything. Also look up some of the talk about the large needle bearing in that clutch basket. There is a good one out there for about 40$ US. In the picture below you will see the notches for the sprocket but look at the bearing spec name. this can be pressed out and a new one installed. Should help a lot. Much talk on here about that bearing also. The idea is to buy one from a bearing supply not BMW as they seem to be not as good as after market.
Here is the bearing, I just looked it up. 2 years ago they were about 45$, wow, what a change:
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WOW!!!! Ese es un trabajo increible @Hondakiller !!!!

Si me permites me gustaria hacerte unas preguntas:

1. Vi los links a los muelles en Youtube... Las especificaciones de los amarillos que salen en automatico son las correctos?? (se necesitan 4 piezas cierto??)
2. El verde es una sola pieza??
3. Podrias compartir las especificaciones de los casquillos y los tornillos??
3.1 Es viable hacer las roscas directamente sobre la campana??
4. El casquillo de bronce es opcional cierto??
5. podrias compartir las especificaciones de este casquillo??

Encontre un campana del 2010 aquí por el equivaleta 450euros y de ahi surgio mi idea de hacer la actualizacion pero esta opcion es mucho mejor. Solo habría que agregar los agujeros para mejorar la lubricacion segun tu video cierto?? Esto para resolver el problema que menciona @Beech

Hay muchos videos que ver en tu canal de YouTube... GRACIAS POR COMPARTIR!!!!

-------------------------------------------------------

WOW!!!! That is amazing work @Hondakiller !!!!

If you allow me, I would like to ask you a few questions:

1. I saw the links to the springs on Youtube... Are the specifications of the yellow ones that appear automatically correct? (4 pieces are needed right??)
2. Is the green one piece?
3. Could you share the specifications of the 3 bushings and bolts?
3.1 Is it feasible to make the threads directly on the basket?
4. The bronze bushing is optional, right?
5. Could you share the specifications of this bushing?

I found a 2010 basket here for the equivalent of 450 usd and that's where my idea of updating came from, but this option is much better. It would only be necessary to add the holes to improve the lubrication according to your video, right??? This to solve the problem that @Beech said

There are so many videos to watch on your YouTube channel... THANKS FOR SHARING!!!!
1 - se necesitan 4 muelles amarillos
2 - se necesita solo 1 muelle verde para sustituir al mediano
3 - los tornillos son del portamatriculas de la ktm superduke , en cuanto a los casquillos
3.1 - no , el aluminio no es un metal duro , con el tiempo tendrias problemas
4 - es opcional pero muy recomendable , porque el agujero central se deforma en forma ovalada y contribuye a aumentar las vibraciones
tambien es recomendable sustituir el rodamiento central por otro modelo - INA NK35/30 - TV -XL
5 - por desgracia no tengo las medidas del casquillo de bronce , me lo fabrica y acopla un tornero a medida del diametro del dentado de acero grande que lleva la campana
eso si , es un trabajo de muchisima precision , ha de tener la olgura justa para que el dentado grande pueda girar dentro del casquillo , pero solo la justa para que no quede ninguna holgura
@Hondakiller and @Beech I dont know how to say thanks!!!! This a lot of helpful information!!!!

I am already talking with the clutch basket seller to see if he has the gear and the adapter... Once I know that I will decide the way to go. considering the costs of the used basket and new bearing, adapter and sprocket maybe I will go the @Hondakiller way. With the bushing specs shared I will also check the fabrication cost of those and will check for the springs price and shipping to Mexico so I can make a good election.
@Hondakiller, si no estuviera en otro continente mi campana de clutch ya estaria contigo para reacondicionamiento!!!! Tu trabajo es impresionante y el conocimiento y dominio que tienes de estas motos es admirable!!!! Mis respetos para ti!!!

Es my probable que me vaya por el camino de la reparacion que has compartido, considerando muelles, casquillos, balero, buje central y barrenos en la campana para mejorar la lubricacion.Creo que se me da bien la mecanica y es algo que puedo hacer, lo importante será conseguir un buen maestro tornero aquí y verificar que los muelles puedan ser enviados sin que eso eleve el costo al cielo.

Nuevamente GRACIAS por compartir tanta información y conocimiento!!! (me falta adaptar mi INPA para que funcione con mi auto y la moto y creo que es solo tema de agregar los daten y modificar el menu... :)

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@Hondakiller, if I weren't on another continent my clutch bell would already be with you for reconditioning!!!! Your work is impressive and the knowledge and mastery you have of these motorcycles is admirable!!!! My respect for you!!!



It is very likely that I will go down the path of the repair that you have shared, considering springs, bushings, bearing, central bushing and holes in the bell to improve lubrication. I think I am good at mechanics and it is something that I can do, the important thing will be to get a good master turner here and verify that the springs can be shipped without raising the cost to heaven.



THANK YOU again for sharing so much information and knowledge!!! (I still need to adapt my INPA to work with my car and motorcycle and I think it's just a matter of adding the daten files and modifying the menu right?? :)
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Hello again!!!

I am going the Repair way and I am already lookinf for springs. I have found a distributor here in Mexico for the yellow ones that @Hondakiller indicated and they have what looks like an equivalent to thegreen one. I am attaching a comparisson I did with the original green spring sugested and the one this seller is offering.

@Hondakiller, what do you think about this spring?? By the numbers I could say it is the same but your expirience will tell if this is true.

Product Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot
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Hello again!!!

I am going the Repair way and I am already lookinf for springs. I have found a distributor here in Mexico for the yellow ones that @Hondakiller indicated and they have what looks like an equivalent to thegreen one. I am attaching a comparisson I did with the original green spring sugested and the one this seller is offering.

@Hondakiller, what do you think about this spring?? By the numbers I could say it is the same but your expirience will tell if this is true.

View attachment 33577
following this with interest, would be great to be able to buy replacement springs. We already know the correct upgraded INA needle roller bearing to get.
Late the party I’m afraid….my K1200r Sport lunched it’s gearbox last year,thejr are other posts on here about such,purchased a K1300s motor wasn’t sure of exactly what the process was going to be, got two friends who run a small motorcycle repair business so saw little point even getting my hands dirty so info is secondhand,the 1300 gearbox fitted the clutch did not but with an aftermarket quick shifter bike currently runs very well.
Change of plans... I am going wit a 2010 clutch basket. I found an almost new with lamellar pack and already have the thrust pin with 2 channels. Still looking for the oil pump gear.

Anyway I ordered the springs from amazon although they have a 4-6 weeks delivery time but are really cheap. I will try the repair and see how it goes...


Will take the pin to be machined to reduce the diameter to 9.9mm as @Hondakiller did.

Also need to figure out where to get the tool to hold the basket to remove/install

Will keep you informed on the advance
Hello everyone!!!

I am almost ready to replace my clutch basket. I think next week end will be dedicated to this.

List of things to do:

  • Install chain jump protector (I don't know if it is already there so better to be prepared)
  • Replace APE cam chain tensioner with updated OEM one with new o-rings as @Beech indicated
  • Replace oil pump chain guide and cam chain guide (tensioner side one) with used but good ones.
  • Install modified Thrust Pin with 2 oil channels
  • Replace oil pump sprocket for the one to match the basket, 25 teeth though (could not find or import one 26T for a reasonable price to Mexico)
  • Install a K1300s basket with new INA center bearing. Will use impact wrench to remove and install with a torque limiter bar that is actually 190Nm
  • Install used but almost new lamellar pack from a 2014 K1300s if mine is showing wear signs

I will also try to repair my left heated grip with new thermal wire and tape.

If everything works ok, I will then start to work on the old basket to replace springs, center bearing, and center bushing as @Hondakiller suggested. I am thinking on use TimeSert M8x1.25x15mm instead of fabricating the bushings to assemble the basket.

Any advice or suggestions will be really appreciated!!

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Best of luck mate, very interested in your experiences in doing this. On my list is to check and replace the oem basket bearing and springs if there's any play once I pull the clutch cover off. Did you get new cover bolts and gasket as well?
Best of luck mate, very interested in your experiences in doing this. On my list is to check and replace the oem basket bearing and springs if there's any play once I pull the clutch cover off. Did you get new cover bolts and gasket as well?
Thanks a Lot!!!

I will reuse gasket and bolts. hopefully both works well

I will try to keep track of everything and share whatever I learn from this. When my springs arrive (if they do) I will have 2 sets so first will fix the 1200 basket and if works good will fix the 1300.
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Hello again!!

Today I took a day off and worked on the clutch replacement on my K1200. every thing went Ok until I started the bike and tried to engage 1st gear. It makes a big clunk and the bike tried to move. the same clunk occurs in every gear and finding N is almost impossible. I tried releasing pressure on the slave cylinder and pushing the piston but didn't work. Any ideas???

The clutch was working good before. Could be lubrication since I changed the the plug for the thrust pin???

When opening the bleeding bolt the fluid was gold... I don't know what color this fluid should be.

Thanks in advance. Any help will be really appreciated.
The clutch operating system uses mineral oil.
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para hacer los mantenimientos , lo mejor es comprar:
el aceite de cardan , el anticongelante , el liquido de embrague , la arandela del tornillo de desague del carter , los filtros de aire (mejor los conicos de k1300) y el filtro de aceite en un concesionario bmw ,son productos baratos y siempre te daran los indicados para tu moto

en cuanto al aceite de motor , si puedes averiguar cual es el la marca y SAE que usan en el concesionario de tu zona , mejor comprarlo fuera de bmw , tendras el mismo producto pero mas barato
Sounds to me that the release rod is too short or the plate stack is too high, not allowing the clutch to release. It also takes a bit of time to get oil through all the plates, so it could be stiction keeping the plates together.
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