Clutch Basket Compatibility / Update

1602 Views 29 Replies 8 Participants Last post by SFWharem, 6 h ago

MauK1200

Discussion Starter · 4 mo ago

Hello every one!!!

Two quick questions:

1. Is the 2010 clutch basket the updated one?? springs rattle issue is solved?

2. Is the 2010 clutch basket compatible with my 2005 k1200s?

I have a lot of rattle in mine and I can buy a 2010 used one, but want to be sure it will fit with my lamellar pack and the rest of my parts and that it will solve the rattle.

Thanks ins advance!!!!

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MauK1200

Discussion Starter · #21 · 6 d ago

Thanks!!! Yesterday I opened the clutch fluid reservoir and the fluid is black (maybe too dirty) si I ordered a 1 litre bottle of Shimano mineral fluid (another bottle to my maintenance stock

) and will flush my clutch hoping there is no damage to the master o slave cylinder.

talking about plate stack height the only thing I am not sure about is the position of the stop disc between the basket ad the lamellar pack. It was no flat so maybe, if I installed it in the wrong direction it will push the lamellar pack out right??? I will check that as well.

I will report back.

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SFWharem

· #22 · 6 d ago

MauK1200 said:
Thanks!!! Yesterday I opened the clutch fluid reservoir and the fluid is black (maybe too dirty) si I ordered a 1 litre bottle of Shimano mineral fluid (another bottle to my maintenance stock ) and will flush my clutch hoping there is no damage to the master o slave cylinder.

talking about plate stack height the only thing I am not sure about is the position of the stop disc between the basket ad the lamellar pack. It was no flat so maybe, if I installed it in the wrong direction it will push the lamellar pack out right??? I will check that as well.

I will report back.

John Sykes has a you tube video on the correct installation sequence for the pack and common mistake.

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MauK1200

Discussion Starter · #23 · 6 d ago

Thanks @SFWharem!!! I am sure about the stack assembly, actually used that video and another from @Hondakiller for this... My doubt is in the Stop disc that goes between the basket and the lamellar pack... y has the same shape as the "spring anti judder ring" and maybe, if in the wrong position, it will push the lamellar pack outward and reduce the slave cyclinder action.

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SFWharem

· #24 · 6 d ago

Do you mean the one that goes on ther hub? If so, it goes on the hub first to protect the hub and the judder spring goes on next with the raised edge facing the rest of the stack. There is also the plate with the larger inside diameter that goes on the hub first. Mr. Sykes shows that plate at 0:50 in the vid. I mention it because I received a used clutch assembly that had that plate in the middle of the stack and the judder spring was installed upside down (probably the only way they could install the wide plate in that position. Even though it had new plates, steels, hub and pressure plate, it wouldn't have lasted very long or worked properly. If you continue the vid from the 0:50 mark he shows the stop disc, anti judder spring and narrower plate as the first 3 items on the hub.

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MauK1200

Discussion Starter · #25 · 6 d ago

No, it is nomber 3 in the following diagram. It is also concave so I think if I put this on the wrong position it will rise the hole lamellar package.

I will try to open my clutch again tomorrow or sunday and flip this part and flush the clutch fluid.

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MauK1200

Discussion Starter · #26 · 6 d ago

For those of you thinking on repair the clutch basket I bought the bearing here for $42.

INA/Schaeffler NK35/30-TV-XL Needle Roller bearing 35x45x30mm | eBay

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cveddy

· #27 · 6 d ago

When you have your clutch apart, make sure the push rod will fully seat in the shaft.

I recently put new clutch plates in my 2005 K1200s, along with the latest push rod from a K1300s, and the push rod would not fully seat. My 2005 had the oil jet plug type thing like yours did. The shaft is stepped to keep that plug from going in too far. I had to modify the push rod. Some people have modified the shaft. Either way, if the push rod can’t travel far enough, the clutch won’t fully release.

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MauK1200

Discussion Starter · #28 · 6 d ago

I did modified the push rod but will verify it goes all the way in... Thanks

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MauK1200

Discussion Starter · #29 · 3 d ago (Edited)

Hello Again!!!

I was able to work a little bit on my bike on Saturday trying to fix the no engage problem in my clutch. I tried several things like:

Flush and bleed the clutch system. The lever is still working well and I think a little bit softer so I discard the possibility of DOT4 previous use. I will flush again in a month to clean everything. I am using Shimano Mineral Oil.
Check lamellar pack assembly and found no problem with it. Both anti-judder rings were in the right position.
Remove the thrust pin which did go all the way in and reinstall the nozzle plug thinking the problem could be a loose of oil pressure in the transmission gears/selector but didn’t help. Have to say that with the thrust pin lubrication of the clutch was really good. Everything was wet.
Flipped the stop disc between the lamellar pack and the basket. Didn’t change anything.
Replaced the spring plate (the “cover” of the lamellar pack since the 1300 one had what looked like “bent” teeth. I used the 1200 one which was “straight”. This helped a little bit.

Another thing I found while flushing and bleeding my clutch is that the lever has a little play…. I mean if you start to pull there is no resistance for the first 5mm of travel of the rod. After those 5mm I can feel the clutch working. Is it the same for all of you?? I would think that the piston should start to push from the very beginning of the pull.

I rode the bike yesterday for like 10 kms in the morning and 10 kms in the afternoon. The bike feels good if you don’t use N and keep it in 1st gear in the stop lights. The shifting is good (like it was before) so the only problem is a little “drag” when stopped in 1, hard to find N and big clunk going into 1 from N.

Could this free play in the lever be the culprit of my problem???

I have to say the removed lamellar pack is really wearout (one of the covers has a channel from the friction plate)

Once again, thank you all for your help and advice.

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SFWharem

· #30 · 6 h ago

MauK1200 said:
No, it is nomber 3 in the following diagram. It is also concave so I think if I put this on the wrong position it will rise the hole lamellar package.

View attachment 33941

I will try to open my clutch again tomorrow or sunday and flip this part and flush the clutch fluid.

The stop(washer) in the #3 position is flat. It shouldn't be concave. It sits between the basket retaining nut and the basket.

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