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Discussion Starter #1
I thought I would bring my bike to work today, to get the oil nice and warm and then leave it draining for a few days to get as much out as possible.

My clutch was slipping right from the start. Acceleration is worse than an old 1 litre Corsa my son used to have.

Is there really no tell tale signs that the fault is a clutch failure vs bad oil?

There is no issue changing gear. The bike is "clunky" but goes into gear easily. Neutral is easy to find. (I have heard this can be a problem)

I am trying to save time and money.
Checking the clutch costs about £200.
Replacing the clutch is £700-£1300 depending if it needs a basket or not.
Replacing the oil cost £130 for 2 lots of oil and filters. (BMW oil/K&N filters).

My only option seems to be to replace the oil, but of course if that is not the problem the clutch then costs £830 since I would have wasted time and money on the oil changes. I have never had a clutch failure so don't know what to look for. If anyone can give words of wisdom, I would be grateful.
 

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But, you posted this in another thread....

"An update...
Clutch has become unusable; slips badly in first gear now.

I spoke to my local bmw who suggested it is likely the oil. He suggested i change the oil twice and leave the bike draining for a few days each time.

I am waiting for the recommended bmw advantec ultimate oil to arrive and the fun begins.

Saving £30 On an oil change by buy-in n westway lubricants oil has cost me over £100 in two oil changes. Lesson: get the right oil! "

so, what's up?

Better to keep it all in one thread so we can see all that is going on....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry, I forgot I'd posted the other thread here.

My bike completely lost the ability to move. I had to push it up a long hill to get home over the weekend. I don't know if the wrong oil can effect it that badly.

Immediately after getting home, I put the bike on the centre stand and drained the oil. It has been there for 2 days, draining. This morning I am going to finish the job, using BMW Advantec Oil as recommended.

I am also putting in a K&N Filter, because that is what I have, but I am not impressed with them. They have a brilliant idea of a nut on the end to make removal simple but with the shifter in the way you can't get to it. Wrapping a chain around it is still the only way to get it out.

I might as well then work the clutch and see if anything is different. If the clutch is gone, I should know straight away.

I have ordered a Barnett Clutch this morning. I am going to score the gasket and bolts to complete the job. I figure even if the clutch seems fine after the oil change, it WILL need replacing at some point and I got a small discount on the clutch kit.

Do you need to drop the oil to replace the clutch?

Problem I have now, is my local Motorad won't use anything other than BMW parts. and my local bike independent does not have the BMW tools to do the job. Does anyone know a BMW independent in Wirral/ Chester area? Or does anyone in the Wirral/Chester/Merseyside area have the 3 tools required that I could borrow?

THanks
Jeff
 

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While I've never changed out clutch plates on a K1200, it's a wet clutch design, and every wet clutch bike I've worked on requires you first drain the oil before you pull off the clutch side cover (unless you want a big mess!) In a road-side emergency, I've seen bikes laid over on their side so the clutch could be accessed without losing any oil. I even saw it done at home by a cheap guy with an older bike. He used an old bed mattress to protect the bike. But on a BMW? Not me! The price of one broken body panel would buy lot's of motor oil!
 

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Hi, Just finished changing out my gear box and clutch from a used motor I bought. 5th gear decide to eat the 5/6th gear shift fork!
First off the two tools(lock pin, BIG clutch basket wrench) are required. Yes you can fudge it but for a $150 US solves a lot of head aches. The Oil doesn't need to be drained. I changed both items with out dropping the oil. Now.. if you used "car engine" oil you'll have to drain and refill with motorcycle rated oil then start the motor, warm up and drain again to remove the friction modifiers before the clutch job or it will wreck the new clutch. What year bike do you have as there were numerous changes to the clutch basket and pack?
 

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Since this is a dry sump design, most of the engine oil, which is shared with the transmission, is stored in the oil tank. Your going to drain that wrong oil you filled anyway right?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok. Oil didn't fix it.

I must add that the oil I originally used WAS 5w40 motorcycle oil and wet clutch certified.

I dropped it as it was not the recommended bmw or Castrol brand and the clutch issues started within 1000 miles of the oil change.

I have now changed the oil. Fresh oil. Fresh filter. Bmw advantec 5w40 as recommended. New odyssey pc680 battery.

Test ride......nothing.

In first gear I might as well have been in neutral. There was a slight pull forward but hardly noticeable. The clutch (must be) engaging because in neutral with the clutch off I can still feel the slight engine vibration that I always have which is not there when pulling the church in.

Is this likely to be the clutch? Or something else... There was NOTHING in first.

I have a Barnett clutch coming and have a new gasket. There just doesn't appear to be anyone local who can do the work for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Spoke to the mechanic. Apparently the inner and outer plates are worn. (anyone know what these are actually called)

He said he could machine it and make everything fit, or a new assembly from BMW comes complete with the clutch plates (I already bought Barnett clutch plates). So my attempt to save money has just meant in me buying 2 sets of clutch plates.

Anyone want a set of clutch plates?

I don't as of yet know details of what could have caused this, but will hopefully get more information once the job is complete. Not looking forward to the bill!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks. At least I know what it is called. Any idea what would cause the top and bottom plates to develop groves like in my photos?

Boy does the clutch bite now! I wasn't prepared for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Maybe "grooves" is the wrong term. Apparently the bottom of the outer ring of both parts should be flat not indented. At any rate the Barnett clutch was not able to engage somehow. I don't fully understand but I trust the mechanic, and he said there was no option but to either machine the original parts or purchase the whole kit from BMW (excluding the basket fortunately).

I certainly have not done any burnouts or hard launches on the bike. I can't speak for the previous owners having one had the bike for 6 months. I guess it will go down as one of those things...which is (hopefully) now resolved.
 
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