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Discussion Starter #1
Someone who is not me put the clutch resevoir screws on my 2002 RS tight enough so that the 2.5mm allen wrench rounds out the allen hole. I could probably get them out with some super glue on the allen wrench, but that thats a one shot deal with the screws and they will have to be replaced. One came out. It looks like 0.75 metric thread by 0.590" long. Has any body had this happen and please verify my numbers?
 

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bluemonkey said:
Someone who is not me put the clutch resevoir screws on my 2002 RS tight enough so that the 2.5mm allen wrench rounds out the allen hole. I could probably get them out with some super glue on the allen wrench, but that thats a one shot deal with the screws and they will have to be replaced. One came out. It looks like 0.75 metric thread by 0.590" long. Has any body had this happen and please verify my numbers?
Don't know about the numbers but i have used the screw extractor gizmo from sears...just have to make sure you pre dill the seat before using the extractor...AND GO SLOW!!!!!...A torx head will work sometimes being just a shade bigger but depends on the size allen..just have to play around till you get something to bite...oops one other trick...take the next size allen and grind to a custom fit....ooops again..nother trick ..you have one of the screws out...find a drill bit the same size as the diameter of the screw and drill the heads off...pull cover and use vise grips to latch on to the remaining screw and unscrew...be careful of metal chips
 

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They are metric thread. From memory either M5 or M6. The 5 or 6 is the metric diameter in mm. I replaced all mine on both reservoirs with stainless pozi anyway. Without damaging the hex's how many are left stuck?

The reservoir bodies are diecast ali so you are going to have to be very careful with swarf and damaging the case. The brake fluid finds its way into the threads and can set up some corrosion which is why they sieze.

You won't shift it with superglue. You are far better off trying an impact driver first with a hex bit. Set the direction to anti-clock and tap gently a few times. from memory the oem screws have longish threads so there is plenty to sieze.

The screws are pretty small with a fine thread so I doubt a screw extractor will work. I think I would try a drill the size of the head as suggested and drill off the heads. This work is best done with the banjo removed and the fluid line disconnected. You might have to remove the master cyl. and do it in a drill press to keep the drill on center. That way you can use an air line and dunk the whole thing in brake cleaner if you suspect anything got inside. There must be NO drill filings in there at all.

Good luck.



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Forgot to mention if you do drill the heads off try and use a LH bit...sometimes just the little heat from dilling will cause the screw to turn and MIGHT come out while your dilling
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I ordered some new 316ss screws from mcmaster carr, a box of 50 for 7.00 I didn't want to mess with it untill the new screws showed up. I'll try and get the remaining two out without drilling, as I don't thing they are galled, they are just too tight that the aluminum female hex flats are rounding out under a 2.5 mm allen wrench. I'll put a little nickle based never seize on the new ones. I'll replace the brake resv'r screws to match. nearest I can measure with a metric thread pitch gauge they are a M4.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The new screws showed up, I drilled the heads off the stuck ones by measuring the major diameter of the bolt thread and drilling just under that. Then the screws walked out by hand. I put the new 316SS screws in, and all is well now. The screws are M4 x 16mm. I changed the brake resv'r cover screws since I had to buy a box of 50 for a whopping $7.00.
 
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