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Discussion Starter #1
Hello
I am Robert from Slovenia and I have a bmw k1200gt-2003 year. I have driven 140,000 km, the engine has not been opened yet.
Now my clutch slips in 6th gear when I add gas. I have a Clymer, but I still don't know when to raise the frame if I need to disconnect or remove the fuel injection system and abs control unit...,
or I just lift the frame, so high that I pull out the gearbox.
Thanks for any help
Robert
 

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This is a large job. The main cause of the oil on your clutch is the 19x4mm rear seal O-ring. But with this many miles you will need to change out the rear main seal, rubber crankcase vent system and just about every other rubber part and O-rings you can find. Here is a search of this forum for rear main seal. I suggest you read all the threads
You will need to make a stand to lift up your bike rear, keep the front stable, put a jack under the engine to tilt it down enough to get the transmission out. This requires removing the fuel system and intakes. loosen front engine mounts, remove rear engine mount bolts and many other small parts in the process. Take pictures! The top picture is an R bike but here just to show how deep you will be going. The bottom picture is a RS but just about the same as an LT except the LT requires much more to remove all the small parts.
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You don't have to remove the iABS but the battery box which is also the ABS modulator "box" has to come out and will come out leaving the modulator in place and connected.

Fueling system can stay in place and that contradicts Clymer as they say remove the rail/injectors.

Mind you at that milleage I'd remove the fuel system, throttle bodies particularily, the rubber manifolds and crankcase breather hose tend to crack and cause vacuum leaks.

And also at that milleage, fuel injectors should be sent out for a cleaning/balance.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your reply.
Winter is coming and I have plenty of time.
I will work slowly and safely and photograph everything.
Greetings from Slovenia.
Robert
 

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It could also be your clutch slave cylinder is leaking. you'll find that when you open it up
 

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I bought this same bike in April of this year and did the full tear-down to replace the clutch (it was slipping after only 25000 miles; I don't know how the previous owner managed that). I took a lot of photos and went slowly. Clymer helped a ton as did illinoisBMWrider's youtube videos (
) he worked on an LT, so there were a lot more steps than for the GT, but at least it helped me know what to expect and things looked familiar when I started pulling things apart. There a lot of steps and it is a TON of work but if you follow the manual and are organized you can get through it. I was able to do this by myself and only have limited motorcycle maintenance experience.

I used a sturdy ladder and ratchet straps to raise the frame and lowered the engine with a motorcycle jack so that I could get the transmission and clutch housing off. (No fancy crane in my garage!)
27805


Please ask questions as you go and/or get ready to start. I am (and others on this forum are) happy to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Živjo
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So far so good ...
Now I don’t know how to proceed.
Would you remove the battery box ...
Would you remove the fuel injectors and raise the frame ...
Thanks
Hello
 

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From what I can see from your photo, it looks like you're ready to raise the frame. You don't need to remove the battery box to get the transmission out. You should be right at the beginning of Chapter 6 in Clymers, though it tells you to go through most of the "raise the frame" steps in Chapter 16 (including disconnecting the fuel rail (which the injectors are connected to). I suppose you don't have to remove the center stand from the transmission, but it makes things easier (plus there's a cable attached to it that has to be unplugged from way up above).

Just keep going through the steps in Clymer (and keep taking lots of pictures for your reference when reassembling). The hardest part for me was the transmission kept running into the right side of the frame (where the cross-tube was connected). I think the bike was tilting a little when I was raising it, so the transmission didn't come straight down but slightly to the side (where it hit the frame). Go slow and watch for interference from the frame (or the nest of cables hanging down).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for your reply.
I have a Clymer, I bought it on ebay.
But I don’t speak English completely.
Even here, as I write, I use a google dictionary.
So with Clymer, sometimes I don’t understand everything very well.
That is why I am grateful for your advice.
Thank you, I will keep you informed of my progress and any problems.
Greetings
 

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I am a native English speaker and some of the Clymer instructions are confusing to me, too :). You're doing great!

If there any instructions you don't understand, copy them here and we'll try and explain.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello
I put down the gearbox and got to the clutch. The oil was leaking from the seal or sealing ring. The clutch cover and pressure plate are fine. They are smooth and not blue. The clutch plate is greasy. In my opinion, I will have to replace the seal , sealing ring and clutch plate. I marked everything, but when I cleaned it, I deleted everything. I later saw that they were still factory marked (clutch cover and pressure plate). I set them 120 degrees apart. Now the question ... I don't know where the mark is on the clutch housing. Does it matter how the clutch housing is put back. Thanks, this is really hard work. Greetings
 

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Hello
I put down the gearbox and got to the clutch. The oil was leaking from the seal or sealing ring. The clutch cover and pressure plate are fine. They are smooth and not blue. The clutch plate is greasy. In my opinion, I will have to replace the seal , sealing ring and clutch plate. I marked everything, but when I cleaned it, I deleted everything. I later saw that they were still factory marked (clutch cover and pressure plate). I set them 120 degrees apart. Now the question ... I don't know where the mark is on the clutch housing. Does it matter how the clutch housing is put back. Thanks, this is really hard work. Greetings
Sometimes the original paint mark of the clutch housing will be gone. The other valid solution in such case is to use the marks you should have done before removing the 6 bolts to open the clutch assy - I hope you did some marks.

Otherwise as a last option, you have to make a best guess based on the drilling marks left when they machined the clutch housing. In general, the factory paint mark is often close to where there most drilling was done to remove material. This is to be put another 120 apart from the other 2 components (pressure plate AND cover plate).

See attached photo of a brand new clutch housing...

27847
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
hello
Thank you sailor for helping me a lot. There’s such a sign on my clutch housing, but I didn’t know. I am attaching pictures. This means that all three marks must be 120 degrees apart. Each in his own corner. Thank you very much. Robert
20201108_144226.jpg
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20201108_144342.jpg
 

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zdravo
Hvala mornar, da si mi zelo pomagal. Na mojem ohišju sklopke je tak znak, vendar nisem vedel. Prilagam slike. To pomeni, da morajo biti vse tri oznake narazen 120 stopinj. Vsak v svojem kotu. Najlepša hvala. Robert
OK ... above translates to:
"Thank you sailor for helping me a lot. There’s such a sign on my clutch housing, but I didn’t know. I am attaching pictures. This means that all three marks must be 120 degrees apart. Each in his own corner. Thank you very much."

I had to use GOOGLE-Translate to understand what you had posted above.
I can do French and English by myself - anything else I need a translator ;-)

IMPORTANT: since you wrote in your first post that your K1200 had 140,000 KM, you should not trust the Pressure-plate AND the Cover-plate to be perfectly straight. As they wear out, they tend to dish in/out and wear more toward outside perimeter. So you need to check carefully with proper machinist tool if the round surface is perfectly level from outside circle to inside circle. There is no specs or tolerances published by BMW but my best guess is a maximum variation of 0.10 mm (0.004 inch) would be the limit.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
hello
sorry i was wrong and i didn't write in translation.
I wrote...
Thank you sailor for helping me a lot. There’s such a sign on my clutch housing, but I didn’t know. I am attaching pictures. This means that all three marks must be 120 degrees apart. Each in his own corner. Thank you very much. Robert
Now I add, I measured the clutch plate, the inner edge is 5.5mm, the outer edge 5.1mm., I will consider buying a kit.
thanks
 

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hello
sorry i was wrong and i didn't write in translation.
I wrote...
Thank you sailor for helping me a lot. There’s such a sign on my clutch housing, but I didn’t know. I am attaching pictures. This means that all three marks must be 120 degrees apart. Each in his own corner. Thank you very much. Robert
Now I add, I measured the clutch plate, the inner edge is 5.5mm, the outer edge 5.1mm., I will consider buying a kit.
thanks
I assume you are located in Europe, so the best deal for SACHS clutch parts for K1200RS/GT is "tills.de" in GERMANY. There might be a less expensive place to shop, but I have not found it yet.

See this link for clutch plates or for a full kit: Clutch
 
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