Sailor is right, you'll have to replace the center nut and 6 bolts (they are single-use). When you install the center nut, you will actually stretch it as you tighten it as the book says. When you get the new one, compare it to the old one you took off and you'll see how the old one stretched.
Also, you don't need a special tool to get the nut tightened completely (other than a torque wrench). The book says to tighten the nut to a specific torque (something like 140 Nm), then take it off, tighten to 50 Nm, and then turn it an additional 60°. On a 6-point socket, each point is 60 degrees apart (6x60° = 360°, a full circle), so put a mark (with paint or marker) on the outside of your socket along one of the points, like the red line here:
After you tighten the nut to 50 Nm (and before doing anything else), mark the clutch housing by one of the points on the nut (like the blue line in the diagram below). Then, put the socket on so that the red line is on the point to the left of the mark on the clutch housing (as in the diagram). Then tighten the nut until the marks on the socket and the housing match. I hope that makes sense.
Now the nut will have turned the required 60° and you will have earned a cold beverage of your choice. Or ice cream.
orion-nomad I think your method is better.
I'm sorry I didn't use it.
As I tightened with the Torque Angle Gauge, my wife watched when it would be 60 degrees.
When I tightened I ran out of space.
The wife said it was a little less than 50 degrees.
When I screwed up again I continued from 48 degrees to 60.
Now that may not be exactly 60 degrees it may be 1.2 or 3 degrees difference.
I hope it's okay.
If I had labeled like you before, I could have had control.
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