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Hi All,

I have just replaced all my clutch plates on my 2005 K1200R and put everything back together as I should. I've also fitted a new Oberon slave cylinder as I discovered that the piston seals had gone on the original slave cylinder. That being said, it's all back together and I can't seem to get the bike into neutral. The other gears select fine once moving, but I feel everything could be running a bit smoother. The clutch lever has a lot of resistance, but I just put that down to new parts and everything working properly.

I have a theory that I may have tightened the 6 bolts that go through the round the thrust plate washer and into the clutch boss too tight. This has in turn meant that the clutch thrust plate has too much resistance against it, meaning the plates can;t disengage properly to allow neutral to be selected. Is this potentially correct? Should these 6 bolts be tightened to their maximum?

OR

Are the aftermarket plates I have purchased too thick and not to the correct standard as OEM? Could these be taking up too much room in the basket, meaning the plates don't disengage correctly?

I have the correct amount of oil in the bike, so too much oil pressure shouldn't be an issue.

Does the bike need a run out to give everything the opportunity to bed itself in? I haven't taken it out yet.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Tom from the UK.
 

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!YIKES!
'Naaaada CLUE, and I'll be watching this thread closely to see what the best advice is. (Captain Howdy most likely huh!)
Good luck!
 

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two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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Those nuts (6) tighten to 8Nm diagonally and do it twice. Did you soak in oil the friction plates before installation? Did you measure old plates and compare to the new ones? What brand did you buy? The Barrett type require a different set up for installation. How did you center the pressure plate before you started tightening the nuts?
tighten in diagonally opposite sequence
8+1 Nm
 

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Can’t help here I’m afraid. I’ve had no experience with the Barnett clutch packs but some seem to fit and others don’t. It’s possible that your clutch basket is worn on the inside and not allowing the clutch plates to slide smoothly . The early clutch baskets are silver in colour while the later ones were hardened and dark grey. I’d measure the stack height of both packs and see if there’s any difference. I have a brand new late model k12 clutch assembly so I can check its stack height if you need a comparison. Its also essential to ensure the clutch assembly is
concentric prior to fitting. This is best done by centreing everything prior to fitting and then using a thin wall socket to secure the centre nut.
 

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two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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Capt. is oh so correct that the inside of the main basket needs to have all the teeth smoothed up so the plates can slide. It is a half day of careful filing and sanding. I can't remember but there is a need to remove some of the parts like the belleville spring washer and small washer centering it if you have a Barrett pack. Someone should be here on that. Or look on YouTube or google for the details if that is the pack you used.
It is easy to get tumbling down the wrong path with thoughts too. Did you have a successful clutch fluid refill, all the bubbles out?
 

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The OEM plates have to be placed in the basket with the tabs located in specific area in the basket. They can’t be placed anywhere. Lettering on the plate tab needs to align with a bore in the clutch basket. I would assume that the same applies to Barnett clutch packs.
 
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