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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Final Drive Corrosion

Dear all fellow riders,
Hopefully some of you can help me. I am about to take BMW to court as they are refusing to replace my final drive again due to corrosion. The 3rd one was put on the bike in Feb 2014, BMW paid the parts and i paid the labour as i was told if i did so i would still receive a 2 year parts warrant. I asked for it t be replaced again this Feb as it has started to corrode again and they now say it isn't a manufacturing fault. Spooky how it was before.
There have been many problems with this bike since i bought it new in 2009, a list of which i will put below but suffice to say it has had in the region of £9000 spent on it by myself and BMW to keep it in the condition you would expect from a premium brand.
I firmly believe BMW have a major manufacturing issue as far as the K1300's are concerned. If you look at the engine, all the recess's for the bolts are machined after a protective paint layer has been added. Any person can see it leaves a great area for moisture to start penetrating. You can see this on the engine casing photo i have attached. It was my engine. It is very similar with the final drives, most others don't have the gap allowing moisture to penetrate under the paint.
My bike is garaged at home and work as well as being washed down if ridden on a British winter road. It is cared for by BMW's only owned BMW dealer in Britain.
I understand there are Friday afternoon products produced every so often. All i want from BMW is to provide me with a bike that fits the image of their prestigious brand. I bet they wouldn't allow one of their £150,000 Rolls Royces to have all these parts replaced.
What i am after is any pictures of corroded final drives, accounts of similar issues and any advice on taking them to court.

Below is a list of parts i can remember that have been replaced. This doesn't include all the gearbox internals.
Replaced headlight unit
Both sides of the handle bar switch gear
Front wheel bearings replaced
Replace rear frame
Replace number plate carrier
Replace complete rear drive
Removing and installing the middle
Replace all valves x16
Replace engine by running gear
Remove and install oil pump
Replacing shaft sealing ring for coolant pump
Adjust balancing shaft
Adjust valve clearances
Sealing compound
Remove and install engine
Replace cylinder head case
Cylinder head
Many gaskets, bolts, screws and O rings
A cover
Replace starter motor O ring
Replace rear RDC sensor
Replace potentiometer for gear indicator
Replace loom due to hot start issue
Replace final drive assembly again
Replace front wheel bearings again
Impending replacement of front shock
Impending replacement of final drive assembly again
 

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two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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I know this is an old post but fun. Bikes in the UK seem to often have more corrosion problems than most. I suspect winter conditions and salt air on the coastal areas. Did the OP use a pressure washer, ouch. But much of that list is normal K bike wear and tear plus maintenance. Darn expensive bikes. I live in a wet area (NW USA). I ride in the rain no problem. If I didn't I'd loose lots of riding days. No corrosion. I recognize that road chemicals are death for metal. If the city has salted the roads, I do not go out until several rain days have occurred.
 

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I know this is an old post but fun. Bikes in the UK seem to often have more corrosion problems than most. I suspect winter conditions and salt air on the coastal areas. Did the OP use a pressure washer, ouch. But much of that list is normal K bike wear and tear plus maintenance. Darn expensive bikes. I live in a wet area (NW USA). I ride in the rain no problem. If I didn't I'd loose lots of riding days. No corrosion. I recognize that road chemicals are death for metal. If the city has salted the roads, I do not go out until several rain days have occurred.
How do you deal with the salt in terms of washing.
 

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two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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I do not expose my bike to known salt conditions.
If I get caught in this situation I hose down everywhere with low pressure hose. But this is very seldom. The salt really works over a radiator. I would think the best way to clean that is to remove it and that is a serious pain. If I ride the coast and spend the night at a motel on the ocean I use a bike cover and park behind the motel to keep away from any surf mist. And then the bike gets a super wash when home. My friends who live in a coastal town don't seem to have a problem but they do have inside parking for their bikes. Leaving a salty bike over night before a wash...not good.
 

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K1300GT SE / GSX1400 / LRD4
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Low pressure hot water was after salt exposure seems to help, I've seen a garden pressure sprayer used for that, boil a kettle, add some cold to temper and a dash of car wash or your fave bike wash and apply. Seems to de-activate the salt, then follow with a cold hose down and regular wash.
 

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K1300GT
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You can use a product called Salt Away with the Salt Away dispenser. I ride on salted roads all of the time. The radiators on the K1300 bikes are very important to keep clean. I have a spare radiator that I keep on the shelf. It has been cleaned with Nu-Calgon Nu-Bright cleaner & sprayed with Nu-Calgon Cal-Shield Protectant. When ever I remove my radiator the spare goes on & the one I removed will get cleaned, pressure tested including the cap, sprayed with Cal-Shield & put on the shelf.
 
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