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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Previous forum had quite a thread going on replacing the BMW fuel line quick disconnects with Omega parts. I've got those parts on order but am now looking for a tool to install the crimp-style fuel line clamps. I guess the clamps themselves can be bought at a BMW dealer but what about the tool? Can the clamps be bought anywhere else?
Mark
 

· No bogey's twist wrist
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crimp tool

Tool is an oeteker brand crimp plier, can be found with google for around $12, You can use a dull end nipper or dull an end nipper with a file and do the same thing, I have even used cheap wire cutters dulled with over use. The end nipper type give you easier an access angle to work with (straight on).
 

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Head to your local hardware store (Ace, Lowes, HomeDepot) and grab a couple hose clamps, all you need is screwdriver. These items ca be found in the plumbing area, most commonly used in junction of plastic water lines. I carry a spare disconnect and a set of clamps in my tool kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
screw it

Pathogen7 said:
Head to your local hardware store (Ace, Lowes, HomeDepot) and grab a couple hose clamps, all you need is screwdriver. These items ca be found in the plumbing area, most commonly used in junction of plastic water lines. I carry a spare disconnect and a set of clamps in my tool kit.
I have used those for a long time and always thought they were vastly superior to the crimp style used on our bikes. Now, as I plan to install my quick disconnects I want to avoid the mass of metal involved with screw type hose clamps. And I think in other places it would be nice to use the crimp style also.
Mark
 

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Crimp Tool

Motion Pro sells a pincher tool (part No. 12-0024) and four different size pincher clamps. The Motion Pro pincher clamps, however, use two pinch arms whereas the BMW clamps use one pinch arm. Because of this design difference, I feel the BMW clamps work better in tighter spots. The Motion Pro tool can be used to tighten the BMW clamps and I think the tool can be purchased without having to purchase the clamps. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
oetiker

dkeven said:
Tool is an oeteker brand crimp plier, can be found with google for around $12, You can use a dull end nipper or dull an end nipper with a file and do the same thing, I have even used cheap wire cutters dulled with over use. The end nipper type give you easier an access angle to work with (straight on).
Thanks for the help.

For anyone else interested the correct spelling is Oetiker
 

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Pathogen7 said:
Head to your local hardware store (Ace, Lowes, HomeDepot) and grab a couple hose clamps, all you need is screwdriver. These items ca be found in the plumbing area, most commonly used in junction of plastic water lines. I carry a spare disconnect and a set of clamps in my tool kit.
And of course… you KNOW that the screw style hose clamp is 100% stainless steel, right? FWIW… I do NOT want rust (from the non-stainless screw or "plate" ) in MY gas tank.
 

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clamps

not all worm gear clamps are 100% stainless nor all one or two eared crimp type but they are all available as all stainless. The single ear BMW one are. Check prior to installation expecially in the tank ones. The only thing I dislike about worm gear is the way they cut the hose when tightened to much. Don
 

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I haven't got the new fuel connectors yet, but picked up the pliers and clamps on evil-bay searching "oetiker". They are used on the hoses for co2 for draft beer. One guy also sells the connectors, but they are plastic.
 

· Throttle Jockey
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dkeven said:
The only thing I dislike about worm gear is the way they cut the hose when tightened to much. Don
You can buy hose clamps that are lined and have rolled edges to prevent this. Check out McMaster-Carr. Do a search on "stainless steel hose clamps". The selection is mind boggling. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
bmw clamps

rickd said:
You can buy hose clamps that are lined and have rolled edges to prevent this. Check out McMaster-Carr. Do a search on "stainless steel hose clamps". The selection is mind boggling. ;)
Trying to remember what the BMW crimp clamps look like and it seems they have a steel sleeve between the hose and the crimp clamp. Am I just imagining that? If not, it is the best design and I don't see anyone else offering that extra protection.
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Hi All, I've tried the stainless worm screw types but given the physical size of the disconnects, there's not a lot of room. Also they never seem to be all stainless as one poster said. I've used both the single and double ear crimp clips and have never had a problem using pincers (the tool used for pulling nails) or side cutters. However you must get the right size to match the hose and tailpiece being crimped , because the ear is assumed to be fully crimped for the hose to seal.



 

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Seems I'm going through the archives finding things to comment on.

I would never use a worm type hose clamp on a fuel line of a fuel injected machine. They don't clamp round enough at small diameters for high pressure fuel lines. You can buy special fuel line screw type clamps from BMW or auto parts stores fairly inexpensively. They do not have the ability to fit many different sizes like the worm drive clamps. They are stamped with their designed diameter. I used 12.5 and 13mm clamps on my R-bike.

Since I bought the oetiker clamp pliers, I sometimes just buy the oetiker clamps since they are a very clean install.

Cheers,
Jerry
 

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brucecha said:
If I am not mistaken my '85 K100 came stock with worm-type hose clamps on the fuel filter. Why can't we use these on the newer bikes?
Like I say, they don't stay round at small diameters--unless you've got some that are different than the ones I've seen. I bought the smallest ones I could find. I'm pretty sure others have agreed with me not to use them on high pressure fuel hose. They all have a flat spot on the bottom of the worm and go D shaped at small diameters.

Once you have the others you'll agree they clamp much better.
--Jerry
 

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I've also seen small worm clamps used. They are sold with in line fuel filter kits for cages. There are differences in the worm design used specifically for fuel lines, as opposed to the general form 'Terry' scaled down worm unit. The small fuel line clamps have a smaller fixed radius, which whilst not eliminating distortion, stll doesn't produce a perfect circle like a crimp ring. The type of fuel hose is important too. A thick walled rubber composite hose on a connecor barb will accept more oval deformation and still seal, helped by the raised barbs ahead of the clamp on the connector. Thin hose walls used for PVC or the stiffer heatshring material are not suited to worm type hose clamps.

Stephejl is correct in what he says, but bear in mind you'll be shortening hoses to fit or replace disconnects in future. Using hacksaws and angle grinders around a 'live' fuel system to remove clips may be tempting - but NOT recommended. The crimp hose clips must be the correct size for the hose and barb.

Some might inadvertantly get crimp clips the wrong size, or use pincers to crimp the clips rather than the correct tool. On balance It's my feeling that those with less competence could choose the wrong clip, have different pipe material and have a bigger problem than a fuel line specific worm clamp, when it's tight they feel it, whereas a crimp ring the wrong size is not so obvious.

I frequently meet this with cable wiring crimps. A badly chosen crimp/tool and wire combination can be worse than a screw down joint.



 

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milkman said:
I had my dealer install the Omega disconnects and they used the screw type SS hose clamps...no problems....the pinch type can only be used once.
But the screw type the dealer uses are fuel line type clamps with the screw perpendicular to the hose, right? The clamps we're discussion are the worm type with a large screw tangential to the hose. I use the clamps you're describing extensively on my bikes. --Jerry
 

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Stephejl said:
But the screw type the dealer uses are fuel line type clamps with the screw perpendicular to the hose, right? The clamps we're discussion are the worm type with a large screw tangential to the hose. I use the clamps you're describing extensively on my bikes. --Jerry
Those are listed as fuel injection clamps. If you are installing quick disconnects, you will want to have the removeable clamps for theose ocassions when an O-ring fails in the disconnect, or the disconnect itself breaks. Carry a pair of double ended barbed connectors for such emergencies.
 

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Quick question: how do you remove the factory 'oetiker' clamps without cutting/damaging the hose?

I plan to install screw-type clamps on the quick disconnects in case of failure on the road; much easier to deal with without having to remove the right fairing. Thanks.
 
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