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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all


My 2005 GT (classic RS type), has a problem with the cruise control...well, it don't work. I was going to buy a second had unit off ebay but thought I'd throw it out there. I've tried setting the gaps correctly, the cables look a bit worn (I've done 90k miles since new). Wondered if anyone had any ideas before I start spending money whilst fault finding.:crying

Si
 

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Have you been through the Cruise Control troubleshooting procedure? If not, have a look at this video...
 

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Hi all


My 2005 GT (classic RS type), has a problem with the cruise control...well, it don't work. I was going to buy a second had unit off ebay but thought I'd throw it out there. I've tried setting the gaps correctly, the cables look a bit worn (I've done 90k miles since new). Wondered if anyone had any ideas before I start spending money whilst fault finding.:crying

Si
Have you been through the Cruise Control troubleshooting procedure? If not, have a look at this video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ov3-jdII6A

In addition to the video link (YouTube) that Chris posted, there is also a PDF file summary to help follow the main steps that you can print and use in garage for the "static" part of the diagnostic routine.

It is important to watch and listen for all micro-switches "click" as shown in video, but the paper document is more useful than a video when you are in garage around the bike ;-)

See attached PDF file...
 

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Replace the cables first! If they're "a bit worn" (your "a bit" maybe somebody else's "shot to s***"), you're already behind the curve. I doubt it's the total cure, but, either way, replace them.
 

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OK, that video is excelent...hats off to that guy for the detail in it. However, I get the 'SET' light when I turn the ignition on whilst holding the cruise button up. Then I get the set light when I push the button down, however, I don't get the set light on any of the other switches. I've checked all the microswitches, they all 'click', I find it unlikely that they have all failed! I've checked the cable clearances and that the throttle clicks the micro switch when rolled forward. And still I get nothing. Clearances checked, I might still order new cables but I can see the switches working (having stripped my bike down). I can only assume the pcb in the cruise control has failed and I need a new unit. The anoying thing is, every unit I see on ebay has a different number to mine. (EXF47.S, then two other numbers ), not found one that gets close to that. So I might have to get one from motorworks for £195 second hand as at least I can ask them and/or return if I get the same problem.
Before I do that, can anyone suggest anything else?
 

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OK, that video is excelent...hats off to that guy for the detail in it. However, I get the 'SET' light when I turn the ignition on whilst holding the cruise button up. Then I get the set light when I push the button down, however, I don't get the set light on any of the other switches. I've checked all the microswitches, they all 'click', I find it unlikely that they have all failed! I've checked the cable clearances and that the throttle clicks the micro switch when rolled forward. And still I get nothing. Clearances checked, I might still order new cables but I can see the switches working (having stripped my bike down). I can only assume the pcb in the cruise control has failed and I need a new unit. The anoying thing is, every unit I see on ebay has a different number to mine. (EXF47.S, then two other numbers ), not found one that gets close to that. So I might have to get one from motorworks for £195 second hand as at least I can ask them and/or return if I get the same problem.

Before I do that, can anyone suggest anything else?
I did the video because after 5 years of trying to explain "in text" how to solve these issues, I realized that I had to find a more visual way to explain this. I was trying to be as close as I could to emulate being on-site with the owner (trying to help him out on site).

If have done a lot of troubleshooting here at my place on 4 different K1200RS/GT and also about 30 different bikes remotely using 3 forums (including the K1200LT where the cruise is pretty much std equipment).
- In 95% cases the problem was resolve by either adjusting/replacing cables (30%) ..OR.. adjusting/tightening the clutch micro-switch (35% roughly) ..OR.. adjusting/cleaning the rear brake pedal switch (30%).

- in ONLY 5% other cases, the issue was inside the cruise-switch mechanism inside the left-hand handle-bar switch assy. There is a design weakness where the plastic inside wears out and the ON-OFF mechanism is not being triggered in steady fashion (or goes OFF suddenly). Tricky to open and repair.... plus these are quite expensive... but you can find some used one on EBAY for very good price (they may be in better shape than yours depending on usage / wear).

- In 10 year on various BMW forums for K1200RS/GT and K1200LT, I have NEVER heard of a single failure of the cruise-unit itself. Hence, although yours could be an exception, I would certainly research other options before buying this part. By the way, look on your cruise-unit for one long number ending with "5111" OR "5177" left of the barcode sticker for the correct model.

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NEXT SUGGESTED STEP to continue troubleshooting:
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(1) IF any steps in the troubleshooting sequence fails, you cannot continue the rest of the steps in any meaningfull way (as you found out). You need to investigate other methods to find the cause (with minimum of parts changing). If you did fail on the LEFT+RIGHT move of the cruise switch, then I would suspect the switch assy (more below on this).

(2) The throttle-bodies micro switch is very finicky if both cables are not perfect (including fixing it to have a good return without too much friction). HOWEVER, for a short test ride, this switch can be remove from the circuit without fault or issues (just disconnect). You cannot do the static troubleshooting sequence when disconnected, but you can ride AS-LONG-AS you remember that in an emergency, only the brakes and clutch lever will dis-engage the cruise (closing throttle forward will not kill the cruise anymore).

(3) A ride using Step 2 above will eliminate this as the cause. If behavior is the same as before and still does not want to engage (above 30 MPH, 50 KMP), the next step is to investigate the internal handle-bar switch wear problem. There is a fairly detailed step-by-steps of opening these handlebar switches on the K1200LT forum to compensate for the wear problem.

BE WARNED that BMW does not sell any parts inside the handlebar switch assy... IF you break something, you will need to buy a complete new OR used one.... HAVING the same parts number as yours. The K1200GT has a specific part number because of the electrical windshield and connector changes compare to K1200RS or K1200LT.

This repair post with photos begins here (some more info before and after this post also if you care to read):
Flaky Cruise Control - BMW Luxury Touring Community

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As a last option,
If you do not want to open yours switch to troubleshoot,
Examples Left switch assy on EBAY:
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This one for a K1200GT (2003-2005) should the same as yours - check your end connector in relay junction box under fuel-tank (connector should be same size AND color as this one.. somewhat reddish):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K1200GT-K1200-LEFT-LH-HANDLEBAR-HANDLE-BAR-COMBINATION-SWITCH-/200802314057?hash=item2ec0c02749:m:mm_s8VkBkyQJ86PIJ2sFhMA&vxp=mtr

This one from a 2003 K1200GT looks very tired (sun or age faded external plastic color):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-BMW-K1200-GT-Switch-Controls-Lights-Horn-Turn-Signal-Left-/112269397952

This one looks OK, but they are selling the whole left handlebar assy only, so a bit more $$$:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-2003-BMW-K1200GT-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Left-Control-Switch-Mirror-Warranty-/182476123085?hash=item2a7c6cabcd:g:kL0AAOSwdGFYukfO&vxp=mtr
 

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Discussion Starter #7
excellent reply. thank you

wow, what a great reply. Thank you for that, I shall investigate further before shelling out on a new unit. My bike has done 90k miles, so a few things need replacing, one being the throttle cables, they are a bit worn but adjusted correctly, maybe I'll do this first.
Thanks for the reply and I'll keep you posted.
Si
 

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wow, what a great reply. Thank you for that, I shall investigate further before shelling out on a new unit. My bike has done 90k miles, so a few things need replacing, one being the throttle cables, they are a bit worn but adjusted correctly, maybe I'll do this first.
Thanks for the reply and I'll keep you posted.
Si
Please, keep us posted.

When you have a 10+ years old bike with a pretty high mileage (like mine or yours), you need to either learn to fix things yourself, or pay the dealer to do it for you. I have nothing against dealers, but I will not because:
(1) I learned to fix my own bikes 35 years ago and still continue (I often buy used bikes, except this K1200RS)

(2) in my mind, it is insane to pay something like $300 to $600 to fix such a problem. Depending on what part they choose to change as a new switch-assy at handlebar is $US$ 473. In the best scenario, they will charge 2 to 3 hours (no parts) to remove fairing, troubleshoot and fix one of the micro-switches. Maybe change the throttle-cables if they see something not good enough (both cables together are about $US$ 130 plus install time).

Of course anything mechanical (or receiving rain like the handle-bar switches), will eventually cause some issue with age. These switches have a mechanical component and do receive some water ALTHOUGH part of it is sealed. Washing with high pressure is also very bad habit that may cause problem. The throttle cables do eventually wear and cause some effect on the cruise-control - very finicky design at the throttle-bodies (my opinion...)

On my K1200RS, all these cruise related parts are original except both throttle-cables that were changed preventively at 65K miles (bike was about 10 years old). Things were getting a bit stiffer than before and I was aware the new throttle-cables design had a better inside lining than mine (they did change the part number at a certain point AFTER 2003)
 

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did you catch the part about the brake light. if you have a bad bulb or incorrect bulb (in my case LED) the cruise control wont sequence trough the switches and stayed on continuously(if i remember correctly) after replacing LED cruise control works as it should.
 

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did you catch the part about the brake light. if you have a bad bulb or incorrect bulb (in my case LED) the cruise control wont sequence trough the switches and stayed on continuously(if i remember correctly) after replacing LED cruise control works as it should.
Thanks, good reminder.... just in case... BUT in his case (STYLERUK) it would not apply because he said he was able to reach step 1 and 2 (up and down on the SET / RES position).

IF the rear bulb was defective (or wrong type.. or disconnected), you would NOT be able to finish the 1st step of the diagnostic: in such case the Yellow SET light will always stay on (as document in PDF document). Of course, I had to assumed he has already read my PDF document AND review the Video... at least 2 times ;-)
 

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Bonjour

J'ai exactement les mêmes symptômes que styleruk

"Cependant, j'obtiens le voyant «SET» lorsque je mets le contact tout en maintenant le bouton de croisière vers le haut. Ensuite, j'obtiens la lumière réglée lorsque j'appuie sur le bouton, mais je n'obtiens pas la lumière réglée sur aucun des autres commutateurs. J'ai vérifié tous les micro-interrupteurs, ils "cliquent" tous, je trouve peu probable qu'ils aient tous échoué! J'ai vérifié les jeux de câbles et que l'accélérateur clique sur le micro-interrupteur lorsqu'il est roulé vers l'avant. Et je ne reçois toujours rien"

j'ai regardé en long en large et en travers, les cables sont en bon état, le switch de throtle est bien activé/désactivé mais tjrs pas de cruise control

J'aimerai savoir comment styleruk a finalement résolu le problème.

Christophe
 

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Bonjour

J'ai exactement les mêmes symptômes que styleruk

"Cependant, j'obtiens le voyant «SET» lorsque je mets le contact tout en maintenant le bouton de croisière vers le haut. Ensuite, j'obtiens la lumière réglée lorsque j'appuie sur le bouton, mais je n'obtiens pas la lumière réglée sur aucun des autres commutateurs. J'ai vérifié tous les micro-interrupteurs, ils "cliquent" tous, je trouve peu probable qu'ils aient tous échoué! J'ai vérifié les jeux de câbles et que l'accélérateur clique sur le micro-interrupteur lorsqu'il est roulé vers l'avant. Et je ne reçois toujours rien"

j'ai regardé en long en large et en travers, les cables sont en bon état, le switch de throtle est bien activé/désactivé mais tjrs pas de cruise control

J'aimerai savoir comment styleruk a finalement résolu le problème.

Christophe
I translated your text to English, and I had the same problem as you when I bought my bike. The rear brake light must have both (2) filaments working for the cruise control to work. I took the bulb out and then tested it, one of the filaments was burned out, replaced the bulb with a new one and the cruise control started working again. Best of luck!


J'ai traduit votre texte en anglais et j'ai eu le même problème que vous lorsque j'ai acheté mon vélo. Le feu stop arrière doit avoir les deux (2) filaments qui fonctionnent pour que le régulateur de vitesse fonctionne. J'ai sorti l'ampoule et l'ai ensuite testée, l'un des filaments a été grillé, j'ai remplacé l'ampoule par une nouvelle et le régulateur de vitesse a recommencé à fonctionner. Bonne chance!
 
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