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Cylinder 2 cold

689 Views 24 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  Capt howdy
I have a pretty consistent problem with cylinder number 2 on my K1200GT (K44) from 2007, and I would really appreciate some inputs.

The exhaust ports on cylinders 1,3 and 4 all reach around 450F (230C) when the engine is warm and running, but the exhaust port on number 2 only reaches around 250F (120C). I have spent a month trying to locate the error, and I have gotten nowhere.
I have replaced, gapped and tested all spark plugs.
I have checked compression and I get the same reading on all 4 cylinders (125 psi but the tool is probably not calibrated).
I have checked valve clearance and all cylinders are equal and within specs.
I have checked that all spark plugs are firing when the engine is cranked. Spark is consistent and seems strong on all cylinders.
I have tested functionality of all four fuel injectors (off the bike) and spraypatterns look fine. I have replaced the injector on cylinder number 2 to eliminate that completely as the cause of the problem.
I have replaced the ignition coils on cylinder numbers 2, 3 and 4 with new, original ones (the one on cylinder 1 was replaced a few years back and I thought that the other three might be heading towards retirement as well).
I have replaced all rubber boots between the air filter housing and the throttle assembly and ones between the throttle assembly and the engine(engine revved up, when carb cleaner was sprayed at the boots, so there was a false air issue).
I have inspected all plugs, connectors and wires visually for damage.
I have bought an OBD tester (UniCarScan UCSI-2100) and the MotoScan app ("Ultimate" license version) from WGsoft, and I have no error codes on any sensors.
I can activate the injectors individually through the app and they all sound the same when activated. None of them drops out or changes "rhythm" when activated.

Now I am at the point, where I can not really find anything more to test except chasing after a non consistent electrical issue around the ignition coil or the injector on cylinder number 2 - or something with the ECU.

Has anybody in here ever experienced a similar issue? Or does anybody have any idea for further tests, I could perform in order to isolate the problem to one component?
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It's possible that the new injector could be bad - remote, but not impossible. Have you tried swapping cyl# 2 injector with one of the ones from cyl 1, 3, or, 4, and checked to see if the low temp now appears one one of the others? Maybe the others are all running too hot and #2 is normal?
It's possible that the new injector could be bad - remote, but not impossible. Have you tried swapping cyl# 2 injector with one of the ones from cyl 1, 3, or, 4, and checked to see if the low temp now appears one one of the others? Maybe the others are all running too hot and #2 is normal?
Thank you for your thoughts, Felix :)
I´ve talked to a couple of friends and they also suggested swapping two injectors. I may try that even though it seems unlikely that two different injectors would have the same fault, but you never know until you try.
One friend also suggested an "on the bike"-measure of the output from each fuel injector over the same period of time in order to establish, if there is a significant difference in volume. It is a bit of a complicated test to perform due to the engine design, but maybe worth trying.
I have no reference for the normal temperature of the exhaust pipes on this bike, but Google claims that exhaust gasses discharge at around 780F (420C) in general. I do not know if that information is valid, though.
The only thing that comes to mind after eliminating fuel, spark and compression would be a vacuum leak on the affected cylinder. A torn boot,bad injector o - ring, broken pcv manifold, something along those lines.
Perhaps a smoke machine, stethoscope or water spray bottle may be helpful to isolate further.
Good luck.
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If yo swap all movable components from a hot cylinder to the cold then the problem should move if said components are root cause.

Does the bike run well with normal fuel economy and tractability.
does the vehicle exhibit any symptoms of running badly ? if it rides fine - I'd give it some exercise and see what the temps are really doing under a decent load

the other thing would be to check how mad another bike of the same spec is behaving

lots of people get in a pickle on fuel pressure / strange regulators and yet no one talks about duff pumps on this forum - but its normal fun that afflicts all other BMW bikes ever made
The only thing that comes to mind after eliminating fuel, spark and compression would be a vacuum leak on the affected cylinder. A torn boot,bad injector o - ring, broken pcv manifold, something along those lines.
Perhaps a smoke machine, stethoscope or water spray bottle may be helpful to isolate further.
Good luck.
I don't know if it's possible, but when the engine is running, try spraying starting ether around the intake channels. If there's a vacuum leak, it will suck in the ether and RPMs would rise. Then you can pinpoint the leak (if any).
Thanks for the replies everybody, they are indeed appreciated!
As far as I can test by spraying carb cleaner around the throttle assembly, there are no vacuum leaks. There was a leak before, but it has been eliminated by replacing the rubber boots on the breather box and throttle assembly. Parts have been swapped around, except for the injector. Swapping that is a lot of work, and I really do not believe that the injector itself is faulty. The spray pattern is nice, it has been replaced prior to assembly, and it activates and sounds like the other ones, through the MotoScan app. I agree that it would be a good thing to test, but it involves removing the fairing, fuel tank, breather box, throttle assembly and fuel assembly, and that adds up to half a days work to chase a possible fault, that would require two separate injectors (the old and the new ones) to both be faulty. Also, the hotter-than-normal exhaust pipe and catalytic converter to me indicate that there is unburned fuel in the exhaust system. This leads me to the conclusion that cylinder number 2 does not ignite correctly and that excess fuel is ignited in the exhaust system.

I went on another test drive yesterday and the bike lacks power and acceleration. Fuel consumption is higher than it used to be. Cruising down the road at 50 mph feels almost normal, but accelerating is slower than normal and the engine has a deeper sound. I once had the ignition coil on cylinder 1 fail completely, and this does not feel the same, but more like halfway to that. Same feeling as the first test drive, after which I switched the plugs and coils on two cylinders (2 and 3).

lots of people get in a pickle on fuel pressure / strange regulators and yet no one talks about duff pumps on this forum - but its normal fun that afflicts all other BMW bikes ever made
This is an interesting point - especially since this fuel pump has the fuel filter built into it that cannot be replaced. But, cylinders 1 and 2 are on the same side of the injector assembly, so would you not think that cylinder 1 would be suffering from the same issue as number 2, if the pump or assembly was the source of the issue? I would also expect an error code for fuel pressure if the fuel pump was not delivering a high enough pressure. I think that the firing order is 1, 3, 4, 2 on this engine, so cylinder 2 should starve cylinder 1's fuel supply, if pressure was low in the system - unless cylinders 3 and 4 drain the entire system, leaving number 2 with insufficient pressure that is then restored, before cylinder 1 fires?

Anyway, a friend of mine recommended a mechanic, so I guess that I will run the problem by him tomorrow. Hopefully, he has seen a similar problem before and knows the cure :)
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I have heard of two k1300's with fires in the CAT both due to a duff coil stick - these are a very common issue on BMW bikes....

the far to basic diagnostics on these bikes (same as the GS), doesn't report anything to do with coil failure - but my merc of the same age reports each pots coil performance - its rather outrageous BM didn't bother
a vac leak normally leads to issues overheating not running cool....
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a vac leak normally leads to issues overheating not running cool....
Hopefully the leak wasn't on number 2 cylinder cause that opens a lot of nasty possibilities.
Holed piston, burnt valves.....
The compression test needs to be done properly too better yet a leakdown test.

The injector may look fine but not be operating properly under heat and pressure.
Not sure if these are direct injection or not though.
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The GS 911 has the ability to turn on/off a specific injector. Not sure what data is derived as I have not done it. But the latest up grades have added a slew of functions, so I have a project this week.
I have checked compression and I get the same reading on all 4 cylinders (125 psi but the tool is probably not calibrated).
125 PSI seems low. At a 13:1 compression ratio, shouldn't you be seeing closer to 190 psi? When checking your compression, you should hold the throttle wide open to get an accurate reading. Otherwise, you get a restricted airflow.

If one cylinder is misfiring and you disconnect the previous or next one in the firing order, it becomes much more obvious. If you disconnect the opposite cylinder, it sounds different.

Really sounds like that cylinder is not firing. Could be compression, fueling, or spark issues. Check your plug wires carefully. I had a faulty wire on a cycle once that when I pulled the wire off to check spark it worked but when it was in the proper position it wouldn't. The spark was shoring to the block thru a crack in the insulation. New wires fixed the issue. No guaranteee this is the problem but it's someplace to look.
From the factory DVD:
Rectangle Parallel Font Number Circle

14 bar=203psi
12 bar=174psi
11bar=159psi
At 123 psi, you have a dead (almost) cylinder. Probably a valve... When was the last valve clearance taken?
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I had this exact problem on k1300r tried everything just as you said and the final problem was badly synchronized butterfly valves. One of them was letting in too much air and the cylinder was either not firing or misfiring because it was running lean. For 2 years i tried everything that you tried and more. And this was the problem...

If your engine works normally when gas is fully open and is erratic on idle or on low rpm you probably have the same problem.
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It is really great help you are providing. Thank you so very much!
I doubt the calibration and/or quality of my compression tester - it uses the cheap Chinese psis, I'm afraid ;)
Anyway, I will swing by the mechanic as soon as he has time to see me. Then I will see, if he can get any kind of error codes out of the ECU. Or maybe he has some experience with this kind of problem. It is getting at bit too complex for me to handle myself. I will keep you posted.
"I have checked compression and I get the same reading on all 4 cylinders (125 psi but the tool is probably not calibrated)."

to me if all pots are reading the same, regardless of the testers calibration, then that's not the issue. You are looking for the difference between cylinders. I would agree that compression is low, but needs to be checked with a proper tool.

Definitely #2 is not firing at all or not at the right time. My thoughts would be electrical short, airflow, valve clearance issue or worst case piston rings, but the last unlikely if all pots are around the same cranking pressure.
This is the second case of throttle body calibration problems in the past 6 months. Bikes are getting old now. BMW used to say don't mess with them as they are calibrated. Well, that is good for a few years in the beginning it seems. But now could be a problem. There must be preformance shops around who have a flow bench for this job.
"I have checked compression and I get the same reading on all 4 cylinders (125 psi but the tool is probably not calibrated)."

to me if all pots are reading the same, regardless of the testers calibration, then that's not the issue. You are looking for the difference between cylinders. I would agree that compression is low, but needs to be checked with a proper tool.

Definitely #2 is not firing at all or not at the right time. My thoughts would be electrical short, airflow, valve clearance issue or worst case piston rings, but the last unlikely if all pots are around the same cranking pressure.

I'd agree if the compression comes out the same - its all ok or equally worn - good enough to find something else

however also hugely important is that all 4 pots hit 125 quickly - and in about the same time frame.... if not there's something amiss

a sticking valve might cause it to play up when running ?

if the valves all operate normally and the compression is enough, you really only have fuel or ignition issues

as you played with the injection - I'd be looking at coil packs - these seem to be more dead than working on ALL german petrol engined vehicles !!!!
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I have a pretty consistent problem with cylinder number 2 on my K1200GT (K44) from 2007, and I would really appreciate some inputs. The exhaust ports on cylinders 1,3 and 4 all reach around 450F (230C) when the engine is warm and running, but the exhaust port on number 2 only reaches around 250F (120C). I have spent a month trying to locate the error, and I have gotten nowhere. I have replaced, gapped and tested all spark plugs. I have checked compression and I get the same reading on all 4 cylinders (125 psi but the tool is probably not calibrated). I have checked valve clearance and all cylinders are equal and within specs. I have checked that all spark plugs are firing when the engine is cranked. Spark is consistent and seems strong on all cylinders. I have tested functionality of all four fuel injectors (off the bike) and spraypatterns look fine. I have replaced the injector on cylinder number 2 to eliminate that completely as the cause of the problem. I have replaced the ignition coils on cylinder numbers 2, 3 and 4 with new, original ones (the one on cylinder 1 was replaced a few years back and I thought that the other three might be heading towards retirement as well). I have replaced all rubber boots between the air filter housing and the throttle assembly and ones between the throttle assembly and the engine(engine revved up, when carb cleaner was sprayed at the boots, so there was a false air issue). I have inspected all plugs, connectors and wires visually for damage. I have bought an OBD tester (UniCarScan UCSI-2100) and the MotoScan app ("Ultimate" license version) from WGsoft, and I have no error codes on any sensors. I can activate the injectors individually through the app and they all sound the same when activated. None of them drops out or changes "rhythm" when activated. Now I am at the point, where I can not really find anything more to test except chasing after a non consistent electrical issue around the ignition coil or the injector on cylinder number 2 - or something with the ECU. Has anybody in here ever experienced a similar issue? Or does anybody have any idea for further tests, I could perform in order to isolate the problem to one component?
Try a noid light in place of your fuel injectors. Some times the sound alone can be deceiving.
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