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Discussion Starter #1
Other than the obvious headlight/tail plastic, battery covers, ABS aside; is there any mechanical difference between the early 2 valve K-bikes among 1985 and 1987?
 

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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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Different fuel level sender - it's up at the left front of the tank on earlier bikes, not rear and center like on later bikes. The tank bolts down at the rear on earlier bikes. No fork brace on earlier bikes. 16 vs 20 splines as mentioned. Not sure if you'd consider it mechanical per se but different peg plates and slightly different exhaust mounting.

I've never seen anything in the parts catalog to indicate there's a difference in the cams. Also, if you look at RealOEM parts fiche the same part numbers show up for a K100RS built in 9/84 (which would be model year 85) as a K100RS built in 9/86.

I've tried several times to find a factual basis to support the notion of the earlier bikes having "hottter" cams but have failed to find anything.

Not saying it isn't true, just that I've never been able to substantiate it with anything factual.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Are the tail plastic interchangeable between the 83-85 and 87 on-ward K-bikes?

Probably would require different seat and battery covers, too if I change the tail plastic of a 85 to 87 model.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Any tricks to quiet the squealing front brakes?

Seems to be louder when brakes are applied conservatively, no noise during hard braking.
 

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cat0020 said:
Any tricks to quiet the squealing front brakes?

Seems to be louder when brakes are applied conservatively, no noise during hard braking.
Haven't you heard, "LOUD BRAKES SAVE LIVES!"

Seriously, you could try I think it's called "DiscBrake Quiet" , sold at auto parts stores. Helped me a bit. I didn't even know the rear brake was a real squealer until my neighbor mentioned it to me. I pulled out my earplugs and said, "Huh?" :D
Steve
1990 K75RT
 

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chu chu chu chu changes

When I bought my RS in 86 the dealership claimed there was in excess of 100 changes from the 85 model, not to suggest dealers can be trusted or the changes being significant.

...my brakes don't squeak, had a set of pads that did that decades ago but I changed em.
 

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FlyingDuck said:
I've tried several times to find a factual basis to support the notion of the earlier bikes having "hotter" cams but have failed to find anything.

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The 85 K100's supposedly were rated at 100hp, vs 90 hp for the 86. Wether this was from hotter cams, compression, or wishful thinking I have no idea. The 85 also had 2 low fuel warning lights, coming on at about 4 and 1 liters respectively.
 

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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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stevemac829 said:
Haven't you heard, "LOUD BRAKES SAVE LIVES!"

Seriously, you could try I think it's called "DiscBrake Quiet" , sold at auto parts stores. Helped me a bit. I didn't even know the rear brake was a real squealer until my neighbor mentioned it to me. I pulled out my earplugs and said, "Huh?" :D
Steve
1990 K75RT
I've been using this stuff on cars and bikes for 30 years and it does work.

 

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chaos said:
The 85 K100's supposedly were rated at 100hp, vs 90 hp for the 86. Wether this was from hotter cams, compression, or wishful thinking I have no idea. The 85 also had 2 low fuel warning lights, coming on at about 4 and 1 liters respectively.
7 and 4 Liters, though a one liter light sounds interesting, prepare to stall...

I've always wondered about the 7 liters, such an 'odd' number to dumb light but as it turns out I did the math. It looks like 7 liters gets you about 100km or about 60 miles at 35mpg. Those silly Germans. Surprisingly my lights are fairly accurate, given that everyone complains about them.

Duck,
realOEM list two different sets of cams (inlet and outlet) for the early K bikes. The regular one and the California version. It would make sense that the california one would be nerfed a bit, save the world.

Perhaps this is where that old vs newer camshaft debate sprung from. Someone compared two different years, one with a cali cam vs a regular one didn't realize it and decided the regular one was hotter compared to the cali one. If that makes any sense..

11311460045 vs 11311461526
 

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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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lukeman said:
7 and 4 Liters, though a one liter light sounds interesting, prepare to stall...

I've always wondered about the 7 liters, such an 'odd' number to dumb light but as it turns out I did the math. It looks like 7 liters gets you about 100km or about 60 miles at 35mpg. Those silly Germans. Surprisingly my lights are fairly accurate, given that everyone complains about them.

Duck,
realOEM list two different sets of cams (inlet and outlet) for the early K bikes. The regular one and the California version. It would make sense that the california one would be nerfed a bit, save the world.

Perhaps this is where that old vs newer camshaft debate sprung from. Someone compared two different years, one with a cali cam vs a regular one didn't realize it and decided the regular one was hotter compared to the cali one. If that makes any sense..

11311460045 vs 11311461526
Yeah, I know about that. Seems odd though. Did all 85 US bikes get CA cams? If so, then wouldn't they call them USA cams? :confused:
 

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Pretty sure my 85 has a sticker saying "49 state blah blah" on it. About 1000miles away from it right now, so I'll check in a few days.

I have a made in 84, model year 85 motor sitting in my garage. Still have to find the time to strip it and see if the are any numbers on the cams.
 

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cat0020 said:
What performance difference do these "CA cams" make?
It seems to me that the California cams would have less hp as they are tuned for better emissions. The non-cali cams probably overlap to get the extra hp at the cost of greater hydrocarbon emissions.

"Overlap occurs when the intake valve starts to open before the exhaust valve has finished closing. Increasing overlap can be a desirable thing in a higher rpm performance application because the outgoing exhaust actually helps scavenge the cylinder to draw more air and fuel into the combustion chamber from the previous power stroke."

Also checking out the European version: there is a special switzerland cam, which is different still from the cali or regular cam number. I'd imagine that switzerland had stricter emission standards than the rest of Europe.
 

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cat0020 said:
Other than the obvious headlight/tail plastic, battery covers, ABS aside; is there any mechanical difference between the early 2 valve K-bikes among 1985 and 1987?

Hi. Newbie to the forum. Just bought a 12/84 K100rs so I've been doing a lot of reading up about the flying bricks. Found this page which tells a lot about the history of the k series.

http://www.largiader.com/k75/khistory.html

Hope this clears a lot of things up for you.
 

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FlyingDuck said:
I've been using this stuff on cars and bikes for 30 years and it does work.

Yup, I used disc quiet and it does work but the squeal slowly came back, but it does work and is easy to apply to the backs of the pads where the squeal starts. Some folks have said to put a tiny 1/8" of bevel in the leading edges of inboard and outboard pads to help with the high frequency chatter that starts the rear of the pad resonating on the caliper. I haven't tried that though.
 

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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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astroguy said:
Yup, I used disc quiet and it does work but the squeal slowly came back, but it does work and is easy to apply to the backs of the pads where the squeal starts. Some folks have said to put a tiny 1/8" of bevel in the leading edges of inboard and outboard pads to help with the high frequency chatter that starts the rear of the pad resonating on the caliper. I haven't tried that though.
Interesting comment. The 4 valve K bikes' front pads do have said bevel at the front and rear of the pads. Not sure if the purpose is reduced squeal or not but it probably wouldn't hurt to experiment a little.
 

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astroguy said:
Yup, I used disc quiet and it does work but the squeal slowly came back,
For this purpose I`m using a reinforced rubber film (0,5 mm) made for this use.
It`s in sheets with an adhesive on back, cut as needed.
Does usually last the life of the pads, don`t know if it`s available at your side of the pond.

Inge K.
 

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IngeK said:
For this purpose I`m using a reinforced rubber film (0,5 mm) made for this use.
It`s in sheets with an adhesive on back, cut as needed.
Does usually last the life of the pads, don`t know if it`s available at your side of the pond.
Inge K.
The stuff I used is a paint on thick jelly that looks like lock tite. Wait for it to dry then install but I think half of the rubbery film scraps off during the install as it is fairly soft. Next time I'll wait for it to dry longer than 15 min.
 
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