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Any news on the driving lights front? I want to get a set, and am not completely sold on the Motolight caliper mount yet. I really wish that there would be a PIAA set up for mounting in the nose under the headlight.

Brian
 

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Today, I'm FINALLY getting around to installing my caliper-mount MotoLights. I really want them more for the bike's visibilty...rather than more light-output for my sake. I'm very happy with the low beams on the GT. And when the Xenon option become available here in the states, I'll think about upgrading then.
 

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moto

I installed the Moto's on my GT for primarily the same reason as you Messsenger - I want to be seen. I upgraded the bulbs to 55w which makes the lights much brighter and whiter. I have had more drivers and other cyclists tell me how visible this makes the bike.

I had Piaa's on my old GT. I do think that they were a bit better at lighting up the road at night but they did not stand out anywhere near as much as the Moto's during the daylight, which is when I spend most of my time on my bike.
 

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driving lights....

I had the Piaa 1100x units on my 12RT and liked them but if my personal best choice I'm changing out the H7 on the GT to Piaa Super Whites and I'm adding the Moto-Lights caliper mounted with yellow bulbs.

This in my opinion gives better visibility to other drivers "of me".

I've found I do my best NOT to ride in the evening or at night. There's great safety in slowing down at these times of the day; ie critters out and road conditions vs trying to stay at a daytime pace.

Just my .02
 

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I looked at the under the headlight/cowling mount as well for the PIAAs. I don't think it is going to happen with that air intake being there. I thought being higher would be more useful as the fork mounts often got oncoming traffic flipping their high beams at me.

I too went with the caliper-mount Motolights on the GT. I had them on my old RT and they never burned a lamp out in 8 years of use. If they had, Motolight had a free replacement offer although Home Depot had the lamps as well for a very cheap price. The Motolights are very well made though and the brushed (cheaper) aluminum style looks good on the forks.

I do know I am not impressed with having the Auto-Switch installed. It requires you to flip on the high beam for a couple of seconds and then press it again to flip the Motolights on or off. It disturbs oncoming traffic as you trigger the Auto-Switch to turn the Motos on or off by flashing your high beams. Wish I had the Euroswitch option as the RT for them. Oh, well....
 

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Where have you placed the switch for the motolights, as well as where you tapped in for the voltage for the relay ?????
I took my motolights off my krs and purchasaed the kit to adapt them to my GT..
 

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larrykay said:
Where have you placed the switch for the motolights, as well as where you tapped in for the voltage for the relay ?????
I have decided to install my MotoLights without any switch. I see no reason to ever turn them off.

My relay is controlled by the parking light.
 

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though i would never turn them off when riding

there have been a couple of times when i had the power ON on the bike, but NOT started... like when i was messing with my GPS, etc... and i did NOT want the current draw of the motolights on the battery...
so, switched them off for a moment... when the bike was stationary

so, for me... a switch is something that CAN be useful on occasion
 

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ClearwaterBMW said:
...so, for me... a switch is something that CAN be useful on occasion
hmmm......

I'm wondering how the charging system will favor running the aux. lights with the heated clothing of winter? :confused:

I just realized, from purusing the Gerbing site, my electrical heated clothing is gonna cost me around 14 amps (socks, pants, jacket, and gloves). Seeing that the GT's power outlets are only 8 amps total (I've got two so that makes it 4+4), I'm thinking the CAN-Bus is gonna shut down on me. I've had suspicions that it already has with the gloves and jacket - almost like it heats up and shuts down and then warms up again?? Might be the excuse for firmware Update 7.0?? (although it still isn't enough amps, it'll be an excuse to avoid paying for the bloody thing)

Might need to add a Powerlet.com socket to that third hole? I see they're rated for 15 amps. Might get the Battery Tender to work again too.

That alternator in the GT is what kept me from going to the Yami FJR1300. The FJR wouldn't handle the heated clothing.

Winter's a commin'..... Got amps?
 

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The GT's alternator puts out more amps than the LT, so heat away. Hell, add a coffee maker!



GMack said:
hmmm......

I'm wondering how the charging system will favor running the aux. lights with the heated clothing of winter? :confused:

I just realized, from purusing the Gerbing site, my electrical heated clothing is gonna cost me around 14 amps (socks, pants, jacket, and gloves). Seeing that the GT's power outlets are only 8 amps total (I've got two so that makes it 4+4), I'm thinking the CAN-Bus is gonna shut down on me. I've had suspicions that it already has with the gloves and jacket - almost like it heats up and shuts down and then warms up again?? Might be the excuse for firmware Update 7.0?? (although it still isn't enough amps, it'll be an excuse to avoid paying for the bloody thing)

Might need to add a Powerlet.com socket to that third hole? I see they're rated for 15 amps. Might get the Battery Tender to work again too.

That alternator in the GT is what kept me from going to the Yami FJR1300. The FJR wouldn't handle the heated clothing.

Winter's a commin'..... Got amps?
 

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the charging system won't BLINK and eye
the alternator is strong enough to safely (and without a sweat) run
2-up folks with heated pants/jacket/vest/gloves
and motolights at 50w each and a few other things

THIS is the bike to do that on.... i promise
 

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You always want to run your heated gear directly off the battery. Or, a fuse block that is supplied with 12, maybe even 10ga wire. Those power ports are fine for charging your bike at night, or connecting a cell phone to make a call, but they are NOT for heated gear. Not if you want to appreciate the full heating capacity of your gear.
 

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messenger13 said:
You always want to run your heated gear directly off the battery. Or, a fuse block that is supplied with 12, maybe even 10ga wire. Those power ports are fine for charging your bike at night, or connecting a cell phone to make a call, but they are NOT for heated gear. Not if you want to appreciate the full heating capacity of your gear.
excellent point
 

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A few numbers to think about...

I used to run 533 watts worth of accessories on my LT in the winter time, including all of my heated gear. The LT has an 840 watt alternator.

The new GT has a 945 watt alternator. I figure if you keep under 625 watts, you're good to go.
 

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messenger13 said:
You always want to run your heated gear directly off the battery. Or, a fuse block that is supplied with 12, maybe even 10ga wire. Those power ports are fine for charging your bike at night, or connecting a cell phone to make a call, but they are NOT for heated gear. Not if you want to appreciate the full heating capacity of your gear.
That's what I was afraid of. Guess I need to order a Powerlet.com socket (maybe their PKT-042-48 Multifit Front Panel one) and rip into the left bodywork before winter comes. Maybe just get rid of both the BMW aux. sockets while in there.

I read somewhere (here?) where the BMW aux. sockets were problematic with a charger being used through them. Seems the CAN-Bus would even shut off even with pricy BMW CAN-Bus charger plugged into them?

Yet another good reason to have a direct feed and fused socket to the battery.
 

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GMack said:
That's what I was afraid of. Guess I need to order a Powerlet.com socket (maybe their PKT-042-48 Multifit Front Panel one) and rip into the left bodywork before winter comes. Maybe just get rid of both the BMW aux. sockets while in there.

I read somewhere (here?) where the BMW aux. sockets were problematic with a charger being used through them. Seems the CAN-Bus would even shut off even with pricy BMW CAN-Bus charger plugged into them?

Yet another good reason to have a direct feed and fused socket to the battery.
always avoid the Can-bus when you can
i ALWAYS charge my bikes directly to the battery.... solves every problem that way
 
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