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I searched and found a great thread from June 1 (six weeks before I became a GT owner) titled 'Accessory connector from canbus system: which wire does what'. But it didn't answer all my questions.

The thread identified part number 83 300 413 585 which connects to a plug in front of the battery. How many devices can I hook up to it?

I need power for my SP III, V1 and yet-to-be-purchased Autocom and satellite radio. How do I physically connect more than one device to that part?

If I install a Centech or similar fuse panel, can I hook that up to the BMW part or 'power' it from that? If not, can I use the BMW part for the relay? Electrical systems are a mystery to me if you couldn't tell.

What is your recommendation for a V1 cable? Do I have to buy one from them or can I use a phone cord which is what it looks like?

What is the most popular satellite radio and mount? There seem to be unlimited radios, which design(s) work best on a bike?

Lastly, anyone out there have the new shelf with support legs (Big Mak?) for mounting the gps and radar? I like the gps up high, but my buddy had a shelf on his RT and it was a piece of crap, shaking and vibrating, he lost his gps on it, but the tether save it from the road.

Thanks for your help.
 

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I am using this plug to power the relay for my motolights and autocom. If you were adding more items, I would suggest using a Centech or other relay fuse box attached to this plug for power for the relay as the BMW canbus power is not meant for several devices.
I am sure that others can give you the balance of the info you desire.

Happy wiring !
 

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In my opinion, I would suggest you get a Centech fuse block and relay. I am running my XM radio, Garmin 2720, Starcom, and two powerlet plugs off mine. The installation is pretty easy but time consuming to take off the tupperware and remount it. Check out my post called "Accessory/Centech done; picture". To find it do a search on this site for "centech".
 

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I am running the Garmin 2820, XM radio and the escort off the front plug. Any large draws
(lights, heated jacket) you will need the centech. For the switched power I went to
motogear4you.com
I says it's for the 1200GS but it works on our bike as well




Plug and Play switched Power for CAN BUS - BMW
This ‘switched power’ ‘Plug’n Play’ wiring interface kit for BMW R1200GS bikes with the CAN BUS system, allows connection to the parking lamp switched power circuit, for the control switch/relay assy, without the need to splice into the CAN BUS System wiring harness. The I/F kit also allows power to flow only in one direction, never allowing power to flow back to the bike’s sensitive CAN BUS System. This ‘Plug’n Play’ solution should eliminate any potential warranty issues with the electrical system.
Price: $18.95
 

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Oh ya I forgot to tell you I have the BigMak shelf in place and it looks great. Very easy to install. I am waiting on the two support legs which should arrive this week. After I install them I will take a picture so everyone can see.

FYI Mark at Big Mak has been great to deal with. I can not say enough good things about him and his company. He has more to come on our GT this winter Stay Tuned
 

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I'm still a newbie to this sight and what attracted me in the first place was the all the feedback so here's mine. I also have a SP III and I want to add other equipment too. I took a slightly different and albeit more difficult route to accomplish this but I'm very picky about appearance v. function. This is purely for you information only and I'm not suggesting that you do the same.

I purchased a Touratech TPS 15A power supply expander for the GPS and other equipment. It has a single 15A fuse which is more than adaquate for most electronic gizmos. I removed the body panels for uninhibited access then I mounted the TPS to the front of the left lower air intake/fuel tank housing using self adhesive plasti-lock strip so that it can be removed easily if needed. I routed the wiring along the existing harness to keep it clean. For key switched power to the TPS, I drilled a hole in the connector plug cap just large enough for the yellow relay wire to pass through, then I peeled off about 7 individual wire stands and soldered the rest to make a stiff pin to insert into the red/white wire connector. Then I pushed the cap back onto the connector and applied slicone seal around the wire just to make sure that it is water tight.

The photos are befores and afters of the install. Adding devices is easy and clean because the wiring will run along side the existing wiring and not show or interfere with anything. The disadvantage is that I have to remove the left body panel for access. The wiring at the body will not interfere with battery removal or servicing and the TPS 15A relay power wire can be easily removed from the original accessory plug.

Just another way to get the job done! Good luck.
 

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Hey John...
Nice job! Isn't fun to take off the tupperware and put it back on? Gives you an appreciation for labor costs to just get to the work.
 

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No kidding! At least all of the panels on the KGT line up for a nice fit and finish. In fact, the only thing that threw me off was the hidden screw at the top of the right panel behind the rubber air intake. Everything else is fairly straight forward. :rotf:

My Ducati ST4s is a lot worse than the KGT. On the Ducati you have to tweek, pull, push and force everything together and they still don't line up right. To save about 2 hours labor, I also remove the body panels before I take the bike in for service. The Ducati service department appreciates it too!
 

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Question on a Centech Unit.

I am not great with this type of issue. Can you hook this up directly to the battery or do you need some type of switch.

Retroboy.
 

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The power block is connected directly to the battery heavy gage wire, red to positive, brown or black to negative. Power at the 12 volt positive terminal connections on the power block are controled by a relay. The relay is turned on or off when the relay switch wire is attached to the red/white wire of the BMW accessory plug located just in front of the battery. Power to the red/white wire is control by the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is turned off, there is a delay of approximately 20 seconds before the power at the red/white wire is off.

I hope this wasn't too detailed and it answers your question.
 

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Retroboy...
The Centech combines with a relay. You need to tie the switch wire on the relay to a low amp wire on the bike which switches on and off with your ignition key... which on the GT would be the parking light wire. You could use the accessory wire that BMW supplied that lies on top of the battery, but your power will not switch off immediately with the key and you will be limited in the amount of amps you can draw for accessories like a heated vest, etc. I recommend the parking light wire and then your options are open. Once you tie the relay to a switched wire on the GT, the rest connects to the battery. The Centech fuse block and relay come with good instructions that any idiot like me can follow.
1downfourup
 

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Tying into the BMW supplied accessory wire to trigger the relay that feeds the fuse block will NOT limit the current available for accessories, as the fuse panel draws its current directly from the battery, via the relay. That;s the point of the relay.
 

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That's OK, I'm 59 years old. :D
 

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Make your own bus

Go to Canyonchasers.com
Click on "Workshop"
Click on "distribution block/relay

I installed this rig and it works great. I was careful to fuse every line coming in to the bus as well as, of course, fused the line from the battery to the bus. Was easy to install.
 
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